My Fabia 1.2 TSi estate 60p.s. model has developed a slight hesitation under acceleration or misfire between 1200 and 2000 revs when in 4th or 5th gear. It could be an engine management issue e.g. the anti pinking management, a fueling problem, a spark problem or an electrical connection. As it was due a service, my independent mechanic replaced my plugs and fuel filter with my choice of NKG iridium and bosch filter despite these not being due as I'd already replaced them at an earlier service immediately after buying the car second hand. The engine still hesitates under load. Has anyone else experienced the problem? Where would the smart money be investigating first? I have the heat shielded high tension cables to my plugs by the way and have seen the posts on that subject, but am not discounting the possibility of these needing replacement. I should also add that I have managed to activate the anti detonation control when in low revs under acceleration (when I first owned the car and was seeing how flexible this engine is) and I'm pretty sure that's not the problem. No engine management or other warning lights and I am very hot on keeping up the service schedule with top quality components. 

60ps would be the base 1.2HTP 3 cylinder engine and not the TSI engine.

 

HTP does not use nor require iridium plugs, only the TSI.

 

Check your engine type and get back to us.

I should have re-read before posting.  Slip of the brain/finger/keyboard - 86PS - however I didn't think the rest of my info was that ambiguous.

8 valve, SOHC, TSI, last of the MkII model before they introduced the more powerful 16 valve on the Fabia or the smaller 3 pot. Love to get some constructive suggestions from those so knowledgeable.

 

Has the Fuel Filter been changed?

I will take it for granted a nice fresh air filter is fitted.

No.3 lead is prime suspect. Coil not far behind. Test all leads with a multimeter, not sure what resistance should be but should be more or less the same. Just checked an old set of leads, measured between 8k (shortest) and 9.2k (longest)

 

Spark plugs should be NGK type IZFR6P7

 

Alternatively it may be initial signs of Turbo actuator sticking/failing, but that is usually brief before it goes into limp mode.

 

A diagnostic scan with a cheap OBD reader could show if a pending code has been logged. Whether a misfire (showing cylinder no) or actuator fault.

Edited 28 July, 20196 yr by xman

Yes and yes, covered in my original post, Roottootemoot and great starting point xman, looking up correct resistance value range as we speak with multimeter and OBD reader in hand. Many thanks to you both. Will let you know how I get on when wife returns with FAB1.

Yep, nothing recorded on ECU fault logger but scanning cylinder misfires produces 6/10 cycles on cylinder 3 and 0/10 cycles on cylinders 1,2 and 4, on the TorquePro OBD reader. Haven't even bothered removing the high tension no.3 to test resistance as I will have to do that anyway when I receive the new cables. Must get a cheap cable puller, it's hot around there! I see Tesla brand cables are recommended somewhere else on the forum. Do you agree with that? Thanks again and regards -

Yep, nothing recorded on ECU fault logger but scanning cylinder misfires produces 6/10 cycles on cylinder 3 and 0/10 cycles on cylinders 1,2 and 4, on the TorquePro OBD reader. Haven't even bothered removing the high tension no.3 to test resistance as I will have to do that anyway when I receive the new cables. Must get a cheap cable puller, it's hot around there! I see Tesla brand cables are recommended somewhere else on the forum. Do you agree with that? Thanks again and regards -

1000 thank-yous XMAN, slight misfire cured and sure enough 8-10,000 Ohm resistance on the other leads and (by the time I got the lead off the plug, anyway) no continuity at all on no. 3. Bought Bosch leads to source them  quickly in the U.K. and now I'm searching around for the original package as I've just read about cheap Chinese tat fakes and the Bosch anti-counterfeit coding! As an aside, what sort of mileage are owners generally getting from their coil pack on this model?

The lead usually goes first, you don't notice at first because the spark jumps the gap internally across the broken wire core, which gets bigger and bigger over time due to spark erosion. As a result the coil peak voltage gets higher and higher until the coil internal insulation starts to break down.

 

Check leads ever so often and I dare say coil lasts forever.

 

Always use a proper lead puller Sealey VS5293

Edited 2 August, 20196 yr by xman

1000 thank-yous XMAN, slight misfire cured and sure enough 8-10,000 Ohm resistance on the other leads and (by the time I got the lead off the plug, anyway) no continuity at all on no. 3. Bought Bosch leads to source them  quickly in the U.K. and now I'm searching around for the original package as I've just read about cheap Chinese tat fakes and the Bosch anti-counterfeit coding! As an aside, what sort of mileage are owners generally getting from their coil pack on this model?

I had bought that lead puller before attempting to pull off the plug leads, but found I had to file down the  bayonet grips to get them to clip over the plug insulating metal clips and to keep the tool the correct circular section I had to repeatedly squeeze it back into shape with a pair of grips. Whole job took me nearly an hour when it should have been about 5-10 minutes. Thanks also for the coil info update.

Hello I am having a problem with misfires when under load. I have changed the spark plug wires and coil pack one year ago because car went into limp mode, so now I suspect that the problem is either the spark plugs or the turbo actuator sticking. I don't have a check engine light on and there are no faults stored in the ECU so I was wondering how can I scan for cylinder misfires with Torque app ?