I replaced the driver's seat height adjuster mechanism on the Mrs 2006 Octavia vRS estate last night. Everything I've read on them says you have to take the seat out. Well that's cobblers- you don't as I did it last night with it getting dark and being bitten by gnats! 

 

I had a bash without removing the seat and by being dexterous and using a bit of ingenuity it can be done!

 

VAG seem to want to stop home mechanics like me from working on their cars and have used 12 point XZN torx headed bolts and screws throughout, which I don't have any sockets or bits for yet! They didn't think I'd try a job like this, so only used 6 point torx headed screws, which I've got sockets and bits for! 

 

The first job is to push the little metal clip in on the inside of the lever. It's the bit to the rear. Then move onto the recliner knob.

 

Once you've got the recliner knob off by levering it with a plastic trim removal tool, the plastic pocket on the side pulls up and has a plastic rivet at the rear (ours was missing in action) and then pulls off but is clipped to the front piece, so careful as you pull it round. I left the front piece attached and the plastic side pocket hanging as you can't get your fingers to disconnect the front and side plastics. Then there's an obvious T30 torx screw on the outside of the adjuster mechanism, which I'd do last. This might not be accessible if the seat is low, which could scupper the whole operation.

 

Then you have to undo the 2 T30 torx bolts under the seat and a 16mm nut.

 

The bolts under the seat are the reason most people say that the seat has to come out. They are one above the other. 

 

To undo them, you cannot see them and the seat base foam stops you just using a ratchet and male socket. 

 

To get around this I used just a T30 torx bit on its own, pushed it into the bolt head with my fingers (allow 20 minutes per bolt to perform this magic trick) and it keeps itself pressed into the bolt by the pressure of the foam. Then use the open end of a 6mm spanner to turn the bit to crack it. Then undo the rest of the way with your fingers. 

 

Leave the front T30 torx bolt in place whilst you push the seat base in from the side to access and undo a very stiff nut with a 16mm spanner. 

 

Undo the outer T30 torx bolt last and the mechanism will come out. The seat will shoot up as soon as it comes out, which makes replacement a great deal easier. 

 

Put the outer bolt in finger tight first to keep it roughly in place. Then go for the lower bolt under the seat to get the trickier top one more in line. This all takes dexterity and patience and the work on the bolts under the seat is accessed via the rear door. Use your other hand to joggle the mechanism about to allow you to line up the first bolt.

 

Use the T30 torx bit in a 6mm spanner to tighten after you've got them finger tight. You'll have got a bit more skilled at getting the torx bit in place blind by now but your fingers will be getting tired.

 

Nip up the outer bolt, which is easily accessible now the seat is up high. Pop on the nut and replace all the plastic bits, the lever and you're done!

 

Why not take the seat out to make life easier I hear you shout. Two reasons for me. Firstly I don't have the ZXN 12 point torx sockets to remove the seat yet and my Mrs seat position was not great for her to drive safely and it's her car. Secondly,  you have to disconnect the battery due to needing to undo the seat airbag plugs. You therefore need the radio code. I looked for this in the owner's manual where every other manufacturer puts it, to find out it's a secret but your local dealer will tell you it. Not at 20.00 they won't though and I needed to fix it!

 

I hope this helps someone at some point and whilst I've written a briefer version on my project thread, I've written it up properly here under its own topic to make it easier to find.

 

No photos I'm afraid as it was dark, late and I was being eaten by gnats, coupled with the fact that I couldn't see the trickier bolts to take a photo of them!

 

Kirkynut 

A couple of points, you dont need the radio code if you disconnect the battery, it will ask for it but if you just leave it, dont try entering any code and after a while the ECU will recognise it as the original and it will work just fine.

 

Secondly whilst it is contrary to all the advice there really is little risk connecting and disconnecting airbag components unless you touch the 12v trigger terminal to a live 12v feed  and the other terminal is still connected to battery earth, despite all the hype a static dischage will not have enough current to trigger the ignitor.

 

I have never disconnected the battery when replacing the airbag connectors under the seats, removing and replacing seat or steering wheel airbags or airbag controllers although the latter was pushing things a bit, restarting any electronic controller like that or a flashing of the live while wiggling the connector in place could trigger an output. I took the risk because I thought incorrectly that the radio would stop working and I did not have the code.

 

Indeed on start up it asked for it, I tried 3 possible numbers I found written in the handbook and then it locked out starting the engine later on the radio burst into life all on its own.

As mentioned above, Skoda and indeed the dealers stopped recording the radio code in the car when it was no longer required. The radio code is stored in the dash cluster, when the battery is reconnected simply turn the stereo on, then the ignition and leave it a few seconds. The code will be recalled and the stereo will then work.

 

Recording the code in the audio manual, service book or similar was deemed a little daft when it is usually then left in the glovebox. Kinda undermines the whole point of having a security code in the first place.

Well that's good to know as one day the battery will need replacing! 

 

I think I'd still undo the battery when undoing airbag plugs. Especially given what you've said about it not affecting the radio!

 

Kirkynut