Hi all, new here and new to skoda full stop ! Always wanted a yellow vrs so jumped at the chance. Heres where the love story goes sour !!!, my car is a 06plate petrol vrs, full exhaust and cold air intake already fitted, i drove the car back slowly home after buying as i did not want to open it up and break down far away, the car starts, ticksover, runs sweet as a nut but surged on part throttle. Also was very very slow to the point of thinking there was no turbo fitted.

I did the research and replaced the dv, no difference, i have fully serviced the car and fitted a new pcv unit, car is much quicker but still turns flat at approx 3.5k, no lights on dash. Put it this way the car does not even spin the wheels in 1st !!!

Mpg is average 35mpg, and is smooth to drive. Lots of intakes noise but unsure if that is also leaking boost pressure. I have no access to logging so its all hands on, any common areas to look at or faults ? Bloke says he replaced the hpfp which does look new but never mentioned the follower

Sounds and drives exactly like mine when I had not reconnected the hockey stick type intake pipe that runs from the intercooler to the motorised throttle valve across the front of the cam sprocket.

 

There are 2 joints located with spring clips, they should have O rings inside the sliding part, one of my O rings had found its way to the outside, its hard to see because it will only leak or move if the clips are not prperly engaged under boost conditions.

Cheers for that, any pics to give a idea what to look for ? Theres a pipe connected to this that runs through the bulkhead, this is hissing qhen i move it

Photos are beyond my skillset I'm afraid, I am an old-school fart.

 

I did all my learning and worked out what people were advising me to do without photos, the internet or Google, give it a try, its very rewarding!

Pmsl, no worries. I shall pull all the boost pipes off it tomorrow and go through it front to back

Have you tried running it with the MAF unplugged to see if that makes any difference?

The one I am talking of is the one that is most often removed, it runs across the front of the cylinder head at camshaft(s) level & turns through a right angle to all the emissions junk before the inlet manifold.

 

Its about 3.5" diameter and pretty much the highest thing, once the engine cover is removed it should be visible.

 

If I knew how to do photos I would not need to ahve typed all that waffle!

Edited 31 August, 20196 yr by J.R.

I'll have a good look tomorrow j.r, 

And i assumed if i unplugged the maf the car would run rough or not all ? 

It just uses default values with no MAF, it can sometimes point to a dodgy MAF sensor if it runs better with it unplugged.

 

Its just with you saying about the flat spot, I've had this before and it was the MAF at fault so its worth a try for nothing.

Cheers superb, i'll give it go tomorrow. Car pulls strong up to 2.5 to 3k then flat like a n/a engine, can hear alot of noise but has a induction kit fitted. I'll warm the cwr up in morning and take it for a soin with maf unpluggee

When my turbo pipe was leaking it pulled smoothly to similar revs but from 1500 where the boost would normally be felt it was massively underpowered.

 

Around town on partial throttle it was actually a much nicer smoother drive but it definitely did not pull like a train, it would just about maintain 70mph on the flat, I did not dare use it on the motorway to return to France so was very pleased to find what my fault was and how simple it was to resolve.

Well i am going out shortly to unplug maf, then drive to my garage to get it on ramps, fingers crossed i'll find the fault today j.r 👍

Well !! Ive driven with the maf unplugged and the car actualy drives slightly better, the loud hissing noise is almost gone, car runs smoother. Still down on power but up from what it was, just have a light on dash now so assume limp mode and reduced power will explain the lower boost pressure

I don't think it will be in limp mode but you definitely don't get peak performance with the MAF unplugged so i'm not sure if this test was very conclusive. Given the age of the car, and the fact you have already found a pipe that hisses when you move it, I would want to verify that there are no vacuum/boost leaks by having a good look round at all the pipes and connections

 

 

Well !! I think i have found the issues, the maf fitted has 5 pins yet the plug has 3 ?And the diverter valve i fitted is a cheap ebay rev d copy,so ordered a genuine rev g unit

Edited 2 September, 20196 yr by Mudplugger