Hi everyone, need some help here. I think My 206kw sportline has abnormal vibration when in D and idle. I can feel it through the steering wheel, doors, centre glovebox, the floor. They replaced the flywheel and clutch. Made it a little bit better. But their service manager keep saying to me he thinks it's all normal now coz the car has a lot of power and when in D, it all loads up. But as soon as I put it in N, the vibration is gone. And some days are better than the others. Like when it's warmer, it feels a little bit better. I never drove a car that has that much vibration in idle in D. Just wondering if any of you guys that have the 206kw sportline does the same? I am trying to compare with another one but they don't have one there. So might have to wait till the new model arrives. I think it might be some mount, but not 100% sure. Somehow the vibration is transferring through to the car interior. If anyone can help, that would be great. Cheers

the 280 is as sweet as a nut no vibrations at all. I have a very slight roughness at 1800 rpm then gone at 1900 rpm.

 

I think you have warped DSG clutches as you say it does not do it in park.

 

Mayoboat

11 minutes ago, Mayoboat said:

the 280 is as sweet as a nut no vibrations at all. I have a very slight roughness at 1800 rpm then gone at 1900 rpm.

 

I think you have warped DSG clutches as you say it does not do it in park.

 

Mayoboat

It doesn't do it in Park or N. As soon as I put in N, the vibration is gone and u can feel it clearly. They replaced the clutch though.

How many km has the car done?

?

Is this in 'D' with your foot on the brake, or do you have Autohold,

How is it at idle speed and driving and the DSG in D1 ?

?

Are you using 95 ron unleaded and is there any difference with Super Unleaded.

?

What about Spark Plugs / Ignition Coils, have these been checked out?

 

Seems like you got a badly built car or a rather poor technician dealing with it.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/470903-start-up-noise0n-206kw-sportline

 

Edited 2 October, 20196 yr by Roottootemoot

5 minutes ago, Roottootemoot said:

How many km has the car done?

?

Is this in 'D' with your foot on the brake, or do you have Autohold,

How is it at idle speed and driving and the DSG in D1 ?

?

Are you using 95 ron unleaded and is there any difference with Super Unleaded.

?

What about Spark Plugs / Ignition Coils, have these been checked out?

Just under 8000km. In D with foot on the break. Yea. Always use 95. Never put anything  other than 95. No, the dealer didn't say anything about the spark plugs/ignition coils. Will they cause the vibration?

They could. 

Try a tank or 98 ron and see if that makes a difference or what ever octane the Super Unleaded is there.

Sorry but the DSG has 2 sets of multi clutch discs, one inside the other, I think they changed just the flywheel. The clutches allow the next  gear to be held ready for the gear change , odd gears on one shaft and evens on the other. 1-3-5 and 2-4-6 so if in 4th gear the shaft with  3 and 5 is ready and waiting for up or down shift. Has the car had the bad vibes from new or has it just happened?

 

Mayoboat

In D & Foot on Brake or car in Auto Hold and the clutches should be doing the job.

The first gear to be selected is 1st.

No vibration or symptoms like this present on my 280 in any gear with foot on/off the brake. 

 

Smoothest engine I’ve ever had.  

 

 

@Roottootemoot could be on to something with fuel type; I know these engines are a world away from early TFSI’s but my ‘06 Octy vRS used to sound and feel like a bag of spanners in a washing machine if I used 95 RON, the injectors had such finite nozzles/tolerance that they were gummed up with carbon. It would almost stutter and stall on cold start up. A few tanks of Shell Optimax sorted it (added detergents). I think newer TSI’s have different (direct, possibly dual) injection now so shouldn’t suffer from these notorious carbon deposits but the engines are tuned to be optimally efficient on 98 RON+ 

Edited 2 October, 20196 yr by penguin17

28 minutes ago, Roottootemoot said:

They could. 

Try a tank or 98 ron and see if that makes a difference or what ever octane the Super Unleaded is there.

OK. I will do. If the vibration disappears, what does it mean?

27 minutes ago, Mayoboat said:

Sorry but the DSG has 2 sets of multi clutch discs, one inside the other, I think they changed just the flywheel. The clutches allow the next  gear to be held ready for the gear change , odd gears on one shaft and evens on the other. 1-3-5 and 2-4-6 so if in 4th gear the shaft with  3 and 5 is ready and waiting for up or down shift. Has the car had the bad vibes from new or has it just happened?

 

Mayoboat

The dealer said to me they replaced the flywheel and the clutch. It was warranty work. The head mechanic felt the vibration when compared with another one. But unfortunately he left the dealership. I will get the paperwork from them and see what they really did. They first tried to reset the DSG computer but it didn't work. That's why they replaced the flywheel and clutch. I can't really remember to be honest. I was excited about the car when I first got it. So everything seems to me was perfect of course. Then I felt the roughness.

25 minutes ago, Roottootemoot said:

In D & Foot on Brake or car in Auto Hold and the clutches should be doing the job.

The first gear to be selected is 1st.

Yea. It is in 1st gear. But somehow can feel the vibration and as soon as I put in N, it's gone.

If it likes the higher octane more it means it does not like octane that is the minimum that it is required to run on for WLTP testing. 

25 minutes ago, penguin17 said:

No vibration or symptoms like this present on my 280 in any gear with foot on/off the brake. 

 

Smoothest engine I’ve ever had.  

 

 

@Roottootemoot could be on to something with fuel type; I know these engines are a world away from early TFSI’s but my ‘06 Octy vRS used to sound and feel like a bag of spanners in a washing machine if I used 95 RON, the injectors had such finite nozzles/tolerance that they were gummed up with carbon. It would almost stutter and stall on cold start up. A few tanks of Shell Optimax sorted it (added detergents). I think newer TSI’s have different (direct, possibly dual) injection now so shouldn’t suffer from these notorious carbon deposits but the engines are tuned to be optimally efficient on 98 RON+ 

The dealer said to use minimum 95. So if that was the cause, then I want to know why and I will have a few words with them for sure

1 minute ago, Roottootemoot said:

If it likes the higher octane more it means it does not like octane that is the minimum that it is required to run on for WLTP testing. 

I will try the 98 next time to see if there's any difference. Shall I put a bottle of cleaner in the tank at mean time?

1 minute ago, Jamesnz said:

I will try the 98 next time to see if there's any difference. Shall I put a bottle of cleaner in the tank at mean time?

Refer them to the sticker on the back of the fuel filler flap.  You can even see if through the ice scraper....simply clever 

So the car's idle rev was really low, only 600rpm when I felt the vibration, then they put it up to about 800 and it felt better, then after a while, it got a little bit worse again. Then they replaced the flywheel and clutch, then felt better. But now, I think it got a bit worse again. It's worse on some days than the other. Sometimes felt like on a warmer day, it's better.

What's everyone else's idle rev when the car is warm?

5 hours ago, Roottootemoot said:

In D & Foot on Brake or car in Auto Hold and the clutches should be doing the job.

The first gear to be selected is 1st.

The auto hold feature is crap imo, it doesn’t disengage the clutch. Same when auto hold is off, in D with foot brake on its constantly on the clutch trying to pull away. Even my old Insignia automatic (with a properly archaic GM gearbox) disengaged the clutch when holding on foot brake in D.

 

I often use neutral now because I’m worried it’ll wear the clutch really early. 

I have never experienced that in any car with a DSG /s-tronic and I drive quite a lot and have done for 8 years.  If I am using stop / start and auto hold I never go into neutral other in vehicles that have brake lights on with Autohold, then I use N and the e-brake. 

Edited 2 October, 20196 yr by Roottootemoot

7 hours ago, Jamesnz said:

What's everyone else's idle rev when the car is warm?

Around 800rpm in normal mode. Sport is nearer 1000rpm. Try that higher octane fuel but I don't think it is the problem. 

2 hours ago, KeteCantek said:

Around 800rpm in normal mode. Sport is nearer 1000rpm. Try that higher octane fuel but I don't think it is the problem. 

Yea, I will give it a try but don't think it is that either

10 hours ago, penguin17 said:

Refer them to the sticker on the back of the fuel filler flap.  You can even see if through the ice scraper....simply clever 

It says 98/(95)

5 hours ago, drewellis said:

The auto hold feature is crap imo, it doesn’t disengage the clutch. Same when auto hold is off, in D with foot brake on its constantly on the clutch trying to pull away. Even my old Insignia automatic (with a properly archaic GM gearbox) disengaged the clutch when holding on foot brake in D.

 

I often use neutral now because I’m worried it’ll wear the clutch really early. 

That's what the dealer saying, the clutch is always engaged and ready to go. That's why it puts load on it. So there will be vibration. But I drove other skoda and vw cars, they don't have that much vibration and the deal said oh your car got lots of power. But when u stopped. But surely its just some excuse, right? Really need another one to compare.

9 hours ago, Jamesnz said:

What's everyone else's idle rev when the car is warm?

About 800.

14 minutes ago, Jamesnz said:

That's what the dealer saying, the clutch is always engaged and ready to go. That's why it puts load on it. So there will be vibration. But I drove other skoda and vw cars, they don't have that much vibration and the deal said oh your car got lots of power. But when u stopped. But surely its just some excuse, right? Really need another one to compare.

The dealer is just fobbing you off. Yes just a bull**** excuse. My 280 (206kw) is silky smooth in neutral and exactly the same in d with foot on the brake. Sometimes I have to look at the rev counter to see if it has auto-stopped or is still running.

 

I mostly run mine on Tesco momentum (99 octane) but if I fill it with 95, it makes no difference to idle smoothness.

Edited 2 October, 20196 yr by nicknorman