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Hardwiring a Dashcam

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Hi,

 

I bought a dashcam as well as a hardwiring kit so I can do all this myself. I have a problem though. I got to the bit where I have to fuse it in. Please find attached photos to see my fuse box. I originally wired it into the main beam fuse but as you’d assume, the dashcam only charged when the beams were on. I’d like it so the dashcam charges whenever the ignition is on. What would be a good fuse to piggy back off of? I would try the cigarette lighter but pretty sure that fuse is one of the bigger ones. I believe I need it to be a 10A fuse. Let me know if i’m wrong. Any help appreciated. 
 

Nick

 

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If you are using a piggyback adaptor (the type that holds 2 fuses - the original and the one for the dashcam) it doesn't matter if you use a position that originally held a bigger fuse - as long as you put the fuses back in the correct places.

 

The original fuse protects the original circuit, the second fuse protects whatever you connect the flying lead to.

 

Cigarette lighter fuse is a good one to use - as long as it is switched by the ignition.

 

Edited by Clockworks

@Updown789 is the man to ask, qualified electrician and hard wired in a dash cam for me, pretty confident we went off the 12v cigarette lighter in the end 👍

We didn't use the fusebox and fusetap as it would not allow the fusebox lid to shut, so we wired it directly into the cigarette lighter socket in the centre console

3 hours ago, nickyoung1 said:

I originally wired it into the main beam fuse but as you’d assume

I'm afraid it is only you who would assume such thing.

 

3 hours ago, nickyoung1 said:

I’d like it so the dashcam charges whenever the ignition is on.

In other words the 12V socket is not good because it is connected permanently to the battery.

You'll need the wiring diagrams to find a correct location.

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I just checked the diagrams Ricardo. On Citigo it appears to be switched.

@nickyoung1 You won’t need a 10a fuse to run the dash cam from. Find a fuse for wipers and insert a piggy back from there. If the hardwire kit doesn’t have a fuse already for a piggy back adapter then use a 3a. 

You will need to earth the hardwire kit so make sure it is on an unpainted surface or remove enough paint to get a good contact. 

I guess he mean bigger size fuse. There's big and smaller fuses in Citigo as you can see from the picture. I had big piggy back when I put my new Kenwood. I took switched from power window fuse for it. 

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Thank you for all your help. I piggybacked off of the reverse light switch. Everything works!

What did you do about the fusebox lid --  leave it off ,or cut a hole in it???

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12 minutes ago, Blackcountryman said:

What did you do about the fusebox lid --  leave it off ,or cut a hole in it???


I just left it off to be honest 

  • 4 years later...
On 27/10/2019 at 21:26, nickyoung1 said:

Thank you for all your help. I piggybacked off of the reverse light switch. Everything works!

Do you mean fuse no. 50?

And can I ask where did you get ground from? I did not see any suitable screw close to the fuse box...

 

I bought a BlackVue dashcam with hardwiring kit with 3 cables that should connect to: ground, always-on 12V, and power-switchable 12V.

Since the main fuse box is so cramped, I am considering taking the first two from the smaller fusebox on the side - it has more space and there is a nice screw that can be used for grounding. I am thinking about using one of fuses 9-12 (front lights and screen heating) there.

Unfortunately, all the fuses in this fuse box seem to be always on, so I would still need to connect to the main fuse box for the switchable power (using fuse tabs) - the natural candidate there is the 12V socket fuse (no. 36). But this still means leaving the fuse box without a lid.

Or did anyone found a place to get to the switchable 12V power other than the main fusebox?

 

I would be grateful for any suggestions how to improve the plan.

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