1.9TDI 2008 Roomster. 

 

1.About to invest in Halfords 9x11mm flared spanner - is that the one to undo these bleed nipples? Any good?

2. Can't seem to find a part number for these nipples in case I need to replace a couple - it's discs all round - are they generic size or do they need to be for this particular car? Supplier?

3. Reservoir seems a bit tricky to access - not sure how you eyeball the correct min/max level? - any tips? 

 

Thanks folks

Flare spanners are for flare nuts, like those used on fluid and other lines including brake fluid, the cut in the ring is to allow the spanner to pass "thro" the associated fluid pipe line.

I've forgotten the size of these nipples when they are new, they do seem to "reduce" with age due to corrosion and I do tend to replace them at about 8 years old as by that time the exposed ends have been corroded badly and the taper has a round groove in it.  I've only ever bought genuine ones so that I've ended up with no problems.

I tend to wipe the reservoir clean and use a powerful LED light to shine through/into the reservoir to check the level, I think that having some fluid showing in the base of the strainer screen means the level is okay.

I usually use a 1/4" deep hex socket to initially free all these nipples and then change to using a small ring spanner of the correct size, that ahs always worked for me.

On 23/11/2019 at 22:26, rum4mo said:

Flare spanners are for flare nuts, like those used on fluid and other lines including brake fluid, the cut in the ring is to allow the spanner to pass "thro" the associated fluid pipe line.

I've forgotten the size of these nipples when they are new, they do seem to "reduce" with age due to corrosion and I do tend to replace them at about 8 years old as by that time the exposed ends have been corroded badly and the taper has a round groove in it.  I've only ever bought genuine ones so that I've ended up with no problems.

I tend to wipe the reservoir clean and use a powerful LED light to shine through/into the reservoir to check the level, I think that having some fluid showing in the base of the strainer screen means the level is okay.

I usually use a 1/4" deep hex socket to initially free all these nipples and then change to using a small ring spanner of the correct size, that ahs always worked for me.

much appreciated rum4mo - thank you 

Maybe a bit more clarity should have been in that posting, what I meant to write was 1/4" sqr drv hex socket of the correct metric size.

 

Also, I seem to remember that the base of the filter screen has a small lip, so even if the fluid level was far too low, there would still be a layer of fluid showing in the bottom of the filter screen, what I should have written was that as long as the liquid level was high enough to flood an area of the filter screen, then the fluid level is high enough.

 

It seems more and more people across these motoring forums are having trouble establishing the current brake fluid level due to fresh fluid being only slightly yellow and clear, but I have used an LED light to illuminate maybe one side of the reservoir and managed to detect the current fluid level by checking another side of it.

 

One thing though, at least with a new SEAT Leon Cupra, the fluid level when new is almost up to the top of the reservoir, and from the evidence of very little having been done to that car at PDI time, I'd think that that fluid level was like that from the factory!

 

https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/

Edited 25 November, 20196 yr by rum4mo

Just edited to include a link to Skoda parts.

A torch on the side of the reservoir will make the level easier to see.

As above really, well fitting socket used carefully is probably the best choice for initially undoing. Trying to avoid side loads seems to help, as does a bit of penetrating fluid applied and left to stand for a while.  They do have a habit of corroding and snapping off when you try and remove them so go carefully.

 

I've only ever snapped one and that was on a crusty rear drum brake on my old Astra - it was cheaper to replace the whole cylinder assembly than to mess about trying to remove the stub. The same is probably not true of a disk caliper, but its worth having in the back of your mind if one does snap. 

On 25/11/2019 at 09:05, rum4mo said:

Maybe a bit more clarity should have been in that posting, what I meant to write was 1/4" sqr drv hex socket of the correct metric size.

 

Also, I seem to remember that the base of the filter screen has a small lip, so even if the fluid level was far too low, there would still be a layer of fluid showing in the bottom of the filter screen, what I should have written was that as long as the liquid level was high enough to flood an area of the filter screen, then the fluid level is high enough.

 

It seems more and more people across these motoring forums are having trouble establishing the current brake fluid level due to fresh fluid being only slightly yellow and clear, but I have used an LED light to illuminate maybe one side of the reservoir and managed to detect the current fluid level by checking another side of it.

 

One thing though, at least with a new SEAT Leon Cupra, the fluid level when new is almost up to the top of the reservoir, and from the evidence of very little having been done to that car at PDI time, I'd think that that fluid level was like that from the factory!

 

https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/

thankyou for your time & thought - appreciated

On 25/11/2019 at 09:16, Tech1e said:

A torch on the side of the reservoir will make the level easier to see.

cheers Tech

On 25/11/2019 at 10:05, edwards said:

As above really, well fitting socket used carefully is probably the best choice for initially undoing. Trying to avoid side loads seems to help, as does a bit of penetrating fluid applied and left to stand for a while.  They do have a habit of corroding and snapping off when you try and remove them so go carefully.

 

I've only ever snapped one and that was on a crusty rear drum brake on my old Astra - it was cheaper to replace the whole cylinder assembly than to mess about trying to remove the stub. The same is probably not true of a disk caliper, but its worth having in the back of your mind if one does snap. 

thank you