Scout

[OOPS13]

Hi all, 

I'm new here and have only owned my Octavia scout for about 18 months, all was fine the first year, past mot no advisories however, whilst driving over a moorland pass I had to brake really hard and after that a horrible grinding / scraping noise has happened from the rear of the car, I first thought it could be a stone between the disc and plate but it's not that as I've stripped them down, and replaced as I was there the discs and pads and have also changed driver side bearing as doing this revealed it was knackered, but the noise is still there, sounds like car is filling something to pieces when I set off and goes into a rythmic scraping noise when moving, but it is bloody loud. Has anybody had this experience with their Octavia scout or know what the problem might be, and or maybe a guide to cost, any help is much appreciated.

Thanks.

[Ootohere]

Welcome.

How many miles has the car done and is their any record of servicing of the Haldex, and also an oil change of the rear diff?

[OOPS13]

It's done about 150k 

Haldex? 

A rear diff shouldn't sound like that??? Surely? 

[OOPS13]

According to the book, it was serviced by Skoda right up until I bought it.

[Ootohere]

It certainly should not.

 

So the Haldex servicing was at 4 years / 40,000 miles, then @3 years, now that is sometimes given as @ 30,000 miles, but needs doing.

Then the Diff oil might need changing anytime, depends on a cars use, if it wades much etc.

 

RE Main Dealer Servicing and Full Main Dealer Service History, 

that is good to check if a car was Serviced to the Manufactures Guidelines or Schedule.

 

A Haldex Service needs paid for over and above a Service Plan or normal Minor or Major service.

Edited 27 January, 2020 by Roottootemblowinootsoot

[Stevie D]

Does it make the noise with the pads and calipers off the car rotate the rear drive line with both wheels in the air and securely proped on axle stands? 

[OOPS13]

2 minutes ago, Stevie D said:

Does it make the noise with the pads and calipers off the car rotate the rear drive line with both wheels in the air and securely proped on axle stands? 

I tried moving the wheels but only one at a time whilst checking  bearings and changing discs and pads (how awkward are they by the way, and had to invest in new spline set To do it) only the usual slight noise from pads no horrid grinding crunch sounds, and they have usual amount of resistance when turning. 

In reply to roottoot' 

It supposedly belonged to a Dr before me, and had seven years proper Skoda garage service and repairs (cam and water pump) surely the haldex (of which now I've googled) would be done with that? 

[Stevie D]

Its not difficult to change the diff oil - just make sure you drain the correct part and not the haldex by mistake! Oil condition ie full of metal would tell a story? 

 

Perhaps a vcds scan would tell you something as the rear haldex has its own electronic controller with fault logging. As a last resort take off the drive shafts and rear prop shaft and see if there's any sound!

 

The rear diff isn't hard to remove and replace - just telephone number prices from skoda plenty of low millage used ones about out of other vag and skoda cars the controller is the bit that seems to be octavia specific. 

[OOPS13]

Vcds? Is that a diagnostic machine? 

I bought a really good one just am in Scotland at the minute, need to get back home to lancs first, driving on motorway seems to clear it after a few minutes it goes away, until I stop or slow right down and then it comes back again. 

Could it be dropped out on a drive way with ramps? As that's my garage at the minute. 

Haldex seem to be quite pricey, hope it's not that.

It's hard as I only have landrover defenders to go off (this car replaced my stolen one) and they're bomb proof, I've had to get small little tools out to look at this and everything has a computer attached to it, it's a bit daunting.

I'll have a go at getting the diff drained and maybe out, when I'm next back home, and let you know how I got on.

 Cheers for the help guys, much appreciated, 

One last thing, does everybody else struggle to get at the caliper frame or is it just me hunched under a wheel arch swearing at it 😂

[Anddenton]

I think I know what this is, sounds exactly the same as what I had on my scout. The rear prop shaft coupling is rubber to absorb vibration with a steel balancing ring around the outer circumference, the rubber perishes and allows the steel weight to move slightly front to back (the balance weight still does it's job as the fracture in the rubber is jagged so the balance ring still turns with the rubber coupling). When breaking hard the steel ring moves forward on the coupling and starts catching on a tin exhaust heat shield causing an alarming racket, if you accelerate hard the ring should slide back and stop making a noise until you next brake hard. I solved this (Read bodged) by putting a couple of steel reinforced tie wraps around the coupling/ring to stop the for/aft movement, worked for me but took a good while to work out what it was. I thought brakes at first but kids in the back said the horrible grinding noise was coming from the centre of the car around the transmission tunnel and I'm willing to put a few quid on this is the same issue.

Edited 27 January, 2020 by Anddenton

[FirstAndLastSkoda]

JFI,

 

the haldex oil change is not listed in the service book, and is not part of Minor, Major or Variable service. I didn't even know it existed until I joined this forum, so it may never have been carried out.

 

Haldex oil service is every 37,500 miles* or 3 years (whatever it reaches first). I have a FL MkII Scout which is fitted with Haldex Gen4. This is proactive, it anticipates issues and deals with them before there is a loss of traction. Despite what Skoda/VAG state the Gen4 haldex has a replaceable mesh filter.

 

I believe Pre FL MKII Scouts are Haldex Gen2 which is reactive, it only kicks in once there is a loss of traction. Do not know if Gen2 has replaceable or washable filter.

 

* This corresponds to approximately 60,000km. 

[OOPS13]

Anddenton....

You know I did think at one point it was a more centralised noise but convinced myself otherwise due to the sound it makes, I would have expected a more clunky hard sound from diffs and mechanical parts.

Hopefully you've nailed it there.

 

And thanks to everyone in this thread again, I've learnt a lot about my new car, I've really started to like it until this happened,

[Twostrokemick1]

Addison could well be onto something here. I have  just offered a febi coupling unit as the metal ring on mine has separated. My mechanic has advised that I change the coupling as he is afraid that the metal ring will not the haldex unit and cause damage. Google guibo

[Anddenton]

3 hours ago, OOPS13 said:

Anddenton....

You know I did think at one point it was a more centralised noise but convinced myself otherwise due to the sound it makes, I would have expected a more clunky hard sound from diffs and mechanical parts.

Hopefully you've nailed it there.

 

And thanks to everyone in this thread again, I've learnt a lot about my new car, I've really started to like it until this happened,

I was originally convinced it was rear brakes as it only happened when braking (I.e. pads down to the metal) but when I went to change them they were fine. I then realised I could get the noise to stop by accelerating hard uphill and it would come back after a few stops. I then got 3 kids in the back and asked where they thought the sound came from, kid on left said it came from right, kid on right said it came from left and one in middle said it was between their legs. After a bit of crawling around under the car I eventually found the suspect part, I makes a hell of a noise for a bit of metal rubbing on a bit of tin plate. MoT place noted the noise when doing the road brake test could couldn't tell what it was so still passed the MoT. 

[OOPS13]

On 28/01/2020 at 11:29, Anddenton said:

I was originally convinced it was rear brakes as it only happened when braking (I.e. pads down to the metal) but when I went to change them they were fine. I then realised I could get the noise to stop by accelerating hard uphill and it would come back after a few stops. I then got 3 kids in the back and asked where they thought the sound came from, kid on left said it came from right, kid on right said it came from left and one in middle said it was between their legs. After a bit of crawling around under the car I eventually found the suspect part, I makes a hell of a noise for a bit of metal rubbing on a bit of tin plate. MoT place noted the noise when doing the road brake test could couldn't tell what it was so still passed the MoT. 

Cheers mate, finally came in from sea and got under the car, it was the ring on the prop coupling, I can't believe it makes that much noise on that tiny bit of tin. Anyway, bit of epoxy and it's glued back in place, should hold it until I get a new one.

Just wanna say cheers for the help, might have been a while before I discovered that. 

[Anddenton]

Glad to be of help.