Yesterday I got bored, realising I had never tried to jack my Karoq up, I thought it would pass the time. Removed jack from storage place by the spare wheel, found the front offside jacking point & jacked the car up. No problem, jack lifted the car very quickly compared with some jacks I have used in the past. So what next, I will try removing the wheel. So lowered the car, loosened the wheel nuts, sorry studs & jacked car up again. Removed the wheel, then realised just how heavy a 19” x 8J alloy wheel is. Replacing the would not have been a problem if there were studs. After a lot of wasted effort trying to lift the wheel, line the holes up & inset the stud, I found the only was to slowly lower the car until the wheel could be lined up with the hub & insert the studs. 
 

That will teach me, but at least it was an emergency!

Does anybody know of another way to replace a wheel?

One of these will solve your issue, mine has been invaluable when swapping over to winter/ summer wheels.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/181609940079?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=181609940079&targetid=878020360040&device=t&mktype=pla&googleloc=1007377&poi=&campaignid=9451488479&mkgroupid=95476803069&rlsatarget=pla-878020360040&abcId=1139576&merchantid=101448150&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0czo8cLW6AIVRrDtCh3cfgUEEAQYASABEgKy4PD_BwE

Anybody who has taken a few wheels off in their time has the knack, it just takes practice being able to throw the wheel on, give it a wiggle, make sure it doesn't fall off and then throw a bolt in, I always use my foot to hold the wheel at the bottom.

 

The real fun starts when there is no screw in the brake disc, then you end up trying to line up 3 sets of holes instead 2

 

 

What you need is a Alloy wheel fitting tool got my one from eBay saves a lot of work puting the wheel back on 

11 minutes ago, Rsrob said:

What you need is a Alloy wheel fitting tool got my one from eBay saves a lot of work puting the wheel back on 

Never heard of those before.

Link?

The link is in the post by @Kenny R

Could anyone tell me what is the recommended torque setting for the Karoq wheel bolts?

140Nm Afaik

The universal torque for VAG wheels used to be 120Nm, I hope this hasn't changed in recent years or I've been under torquing 

 

It looks like the Kodiak and the Karoq are 140Nm according to google, i'm sure it will say in the manual though

Edited 7 April, 20206 yr by SuperbTWM

Just Karoq and Kodiaq are 140Nm, the rest are 120Nm I think.

 

Could be because they are big he-man SUV's. 😜

What an excellent link from Kenny R! I've just swapped my winter wheel/tyres back to the summers, and as the op stated, what a pain they are to do. Very heavy 19" alloys plus it's quite difficult to get the bolt holes lined up. Just ordered one of the tools from eBay. When it comes to lifting the car, I always back up the provided jack with a hydraulic trolly jack, and chock the two opposite wheels just in case. Obviously, you wouldn't carry the trolly jack with you but scissor jacks always look too flimsy.

As xman says, the torque setting is 140 Nm.

4 hours ago, Roottootemblowinootsoot said:

The link is in the post by @Kenny R

That'll teach me to skip-read @Kenny R's post!

 

Would I be correct in thinking that the 1.5 thread IS NOT the standard size for a M14 thread as I was contemplating making some?

Edited 7 April, 20206 yr by john999boy
Typo

Thanks for the torque setting everyone.

12 minutes ago, john999boy said:

That'll teach me to skip-read @Kenny R's post!

 

Would I be correct in thinking that the 1.5 thread IS NOT the standard size for a M14 thread as I was contemplating make some?

 2.0 mm thread pitch is the standard metric thread, 1.5mm thread pitch is classed as fine thread.

2 hours ago, xman said:

Just Karoq and Kodiaq are 140Nm, the rest are 120Nm I think.

Could be because they are big he-man SUV's. 😜

I've also been using 120Nm. Did a check and found out the Cupra needs 140Nm too!

Thanks @xman 🔧

 

23 minutes ago, Kenny R said:

 2.0 mm thread pitch is the standard metric thread, 1.5mm thread pitch is classed as fine thread.

With the wrong die I may just have to utilise the big he-man arms mentioned above!

Many thanks for all your comments. I have just order the alloy wheel fitting tool, like so more things so simple & makes refitting wheels so much easier. 

Once the wheel is lifted up onto the hub, it rests quite nicely...

 

 

Placing your foot on the base of the tyre, close to the ground stops the wheel from dropping off the hub, and if you've applied a very thin layer of copper slip on the face of the hub it is very easy to spin the wheel around on the hub a few inches until the holes line up...

16 hours ago, silver1011 said:

Once the wheel is lifted up onto the hub, it rests quite nicely...

 

 

Placing your foot on the base of the tyre, close to the ground stops the wheel from dropping off the hub, and if you've applied a very thin layer of copper slip on the face of the hub it is very easy to spin the wheel around on the hub a few inches until the holes line up...

I certainly haven’t been able to get the wheel to sit on the hub on my previous Yeti or the Kodiaq as the lip to sit on is much smaller than the one in your picture. Hence the reason I bought the alignment tool.

Edited 9 April, 20206 yr by Kenny R

Thanks for that Kenny R, I too have now placed an order for the alignment tool.

The trick I use is have a wheel bolt hole at 12.00 O clock position on the wheel hub.

Then put one wheel bolt in the Alloy wheel also held at the 12 .00 O clock position.

I hold this bolt in with a thumb, then picking the wheel up I look through the wheel spoke holes to line up the bolt with the hole.

You can just see the end of the wheel bolt on the inside from the outside of the wheel.

 

Thanks AG Falco

 

 

Weight is the enemy but then I amold enough to remember when alloy wheels were fitted to save weight.

 

Refitted all 4 wheels yesterday and as plenty of time on my hands I decided to weigh them, given that most people seem to regard the Yeti as a small 4/5 seat family car I weighed one of the steel wheels on my trailer as a baseline because I am also old enough to recall when the Mini, the real one not the pretender was a 4/5 seat family car. FFS I hear women saying "Oh I just drive a tiny Mini" 🥴, one that weighs 3 times its namesake.

 

Anyway 10" steel Mini rim with uprated van tyre weighed 6kg

 

The standard 16" Yeti alloy wheel and tyre weighed 17kg 😯 not even the larger rims fitted to many

 

Get this, the skinny 125mm wide space saver spare wheel weighed 16kg 😯 I have never seen such thick steel used even on dumper truck rims and the tyre looks as solid as one fitted to a fork lift.

5 hours ago, Apprentice said:

Thanks for that Kenny R, I too have now placed an order for the alignment tool.

 

Moi aussi! Putting my car details into their website indicated that the tool was incompatible with the Karoq so, to make sure, I phoned TRS and the chap checked; it would be fine.  He mentioned that for their frequent wheel work, it was easier to use two tools to optimally place the wheel into the right position.

If your having trouble lifting it up do what we used to do on trucks put the wheel on a shovel slide up lift the handle and drop on to the hub 

To the OP, I think everything has been answered.

 

Like some others here, as a wheel changer for more than half a century, I’ve learned how to do it.

 

At home, it’s trolley jack, impact gun, telescopic wrench (for removing), torque wrench ( for fitting). I never use the piece of bent tin masquerading as a VAG wheel wrench.

 

Currently swapping summer / winter wheels over on 2 cars twice a year, so plenty practice.

 

Cars wheels generally fit snugly on the centre bore, allowing the bolt holes to line up fairly easily.

 

For my bike I made one of the headless bolt “tools”, because the bore does not fit snugly and you have to juggle the wheel to line up the bolt holes with some difficulty. They’re not worth £6.99. A bolt costs pennies, then snip.

 

I’ve learned recently that VAG use 140 Nm on the big 112 PCD wheels (Kodiaq, etc) and 120 Nm on the wee 100 PCD wheels (Polo, etc).

 

ps - did you grease the mating faces?  Alloy wheels stick fiercely to steel hubs after a while. Go try removing one after a year or two. The rusty hub was our 600 mile Polo.

The Hub and Alloys and dissimilar metals and no barrier smear of grease from the factory and wheels maybe never removed from the cars even if serviced annually at main dealers has been an issue for decades and generation after generation of models of car.