Hi Guys,

 

hope you are all well

 

bit about the car - 

i purchased a Skoda Octivative mk2 vrs CR 2.0 last September its a 2010 model with 105000 on the clock, recently been serviced before i purchased the car. looks to have full service history.

 

before lock down it would be used most days going to work which is about a 45 min journey each way mostly on duel carriage ways.

 

issue - 

when i first got the car it would occasionally high idle around 1000 rpm for a few days every month or so which i guess its going though the DPF regen, a month before lock down

it seems to have got stuck at idling around 1000rpm, when i first start the car some times it will idle around 750 rpm but soon as i set off then come to a stand still it will high idle again.

 

i have check with some Delphi software and the DPF seems fine and not at capacity for requiring a regen,  the battier reads about 12.4 v with the car not on and about 14.5 v once the car is turned on. 

 

i was unable to find any fault codes using the Delphi software.

 

im at a loss to where to start to diagnose the issue its like the ECU is saying more power is required!

 

thanks for any replies 

If you can, check the soot levels as that'll give you an idea of DPF status.

 

Plenty of things can caused a raised idle, try taking it for a 30 minute drive so it's nicely warmed up to see what it idles at?

A proper scan using VCDS or OBDeleven is needed.

 

The two most common reasons for a raised idle is a regular regeneration of the DPF, a duff DPF or faulty DPF sensor, or by setting the Climatronic to a high temperature with low outside ambient temperatures.

 

A 10 year old 105,000 mile DPF is likely to be tired, and a tired DPF in Coronavirus lockdown isn't going to be happy.

 

As mentioned what were the load levels of the DPF you observed?

 

The DPF won't attempt a regen until the engine is up to temperature, which is why it is idling at 750rpm for the first few miles. 

 

Do the fans run on after the engine is turned off? Under most circumstances they should if the regen is interrupted, if they aren't then this might suggest the regen isn't able to start for some reason. 

 

Presumably you're not seeing the DPF, EML or glowplug lights on the dash, or limp-home mode?

 

Continuing short and infrequent journeys is definately not going to help. The advice above is sound, give the car the chance to regenerate its DPF, if possible try to replicate your normal commute and report back.

 

Edited 29 April, 20206 yr by silver1011

thanks langers2k and silver1011 for the suggestions

 

hopefully at some point this week i will go out for a blast init try and make it 30mins plus journey see if that helps out.

 

i haven't noticed the fans being on when i switch off the engine, also there are no lights on the dash. i will double check after my journey.

 

i will check the dpf load later today to see what level they are at and report back

 

thanks again

 

 

HI guys,

 

scanned the car with VCDS and it didn't find much to be fair in the way of fault codes only the following  - 

 

00943 - Heated Exterior Mirror; Driver Side (Z4) 
            012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit

02214 - Tire Pressure Warning 
            002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

 

I would assume the above faults would have no impact on this issue

 

I did measure the dpf, the car was on at the time

 

0 mbar   Particle Filter Offset Different. Pressure

  13 mbar   Particle Filter Different. Pressure
  0 mbar   Particle Filter Offset Different. Pressure
  108 ml   Particle Filter Oil Ash Volume
  16.5   Particle Filter Carbon Mass (spec.)
  0.6   Particle Filter Carbon Mass (act.)

 

at the weekend I will take it out for a good 30 minute drive on the motorway.

Keep around 3,5k revs and drive for a half hour, also deep - press accelerator until cut off  and see from mirror if black smoke exits the exhaust.. 

HI,

 

so I sent out for an hours drive yesterday,  took it down the m1 in 5th gear for about 30 minutes for part of the journey so the car was doing about 2500rpm. I did check and the oil temp was over 80c before going down the m1.

 

unfortunate I still  have no change in idle.

 

reading from vag com on Wednesday  - 

 

  0 mbar   Particle Filter Offset Different. Pressure
  13 mbar   Particle Filter Different. Pressure
  0 mbar   Particle Filter Offset Different. Pressure
  108 ml   Particle Filter Oil Ash Volume
  16.5   Particle Filter Carbon Mass (spec.)
  0.6   Particle Filter Carbon Mass (act.)

 

readings from today - 

 0 mbar   Particle Filter Offset Different. Pressure
  8 mbar   Particle Filter Different. Pressure
  0 mbar   Particle Filter Offset Different. Pressure
  108 ml   Particle Filter Oil Ash Volume
  8.1   Particle Filter Carbon Mass (spec.)
  0.0   Particle Filter Carbon Mass (act.)

 

looks like there is a slight change but not sure the dpf had gone though the regen.

 

is it worth get the engine warm and trying to get vag come to force regen?

 

thanks

 

Hi, I'm new to the forum I have exactly the same problem, skoda 2.0 cr cega same mileage. Idles on 1000 almost all the time, Did you get to the bottom of it? Cheers Paul. 

Hi i dident really get to the bottom of the issue. It lasted a few more weeks then dropped down to 750 rpm. But now has gone back to square 1. I think its what the other guys are saying short journeys with this lockdown does not help.  Keeps going into regen mode mine never comes up with an errors. Please keep me posted if you find out any more 

 

Thanks 

Thanks for the fast reply, I think your right it keeps going into regen mode, I guess my commutes are too short. I've had it scanned for fault codes and it needed a new exhaust temp sensor Bank 1. I've had that replaced but it's still the same. I'll keep you posted if find out anything new. 

 

Thanks 

I'm not sure where the ECU reads battery voltage from (maybe the alternator output).

 

But have you actually checked the battery voltage and had the battery tested?

 

I had a problem on my 1.9 PD105 that doesn't even have a DPF where it was idling at 1000rpm all the time. Turned out the battery was duff. New battery on and it was instantly cured.

Hi, no I've not had the battery checked I'll do that tomorrow. Thanks for the information hopefully its an easy fix like this. 👍

 

hi guys new here, recently purchased 65 plate and it's doing the same, ever get to bottom of it? @Mrdamage81 @Bradders1 @Phil-E Amy help appreciated. thankyou

Edited 18 June, 202518 Jun by luke1993
wrong detail

The idle revs rise to just over 1000 when the battery needs recharging after a period of little use. It may need more than half an hour of driving to bring the battery to a decent level of charge and return to normal idle.

The battery is either being discharged when the engine is off or the battery is no longer holding its charge due to age etc.

My experience of DPF regen is that the idle, after driving with an active regen, the revs are over 1000 before falling back

thanks for advice mate, I've never noticed it idle once above 1000rpm only had it a week been on a couple drives and seen it drop to back below 1000rpm then a couple junctions later I was back to idling at 1000, but no lights etc to relate to dpf or anything

hi guys

I'm trying to find out what is the cause. 1.6 MPI BSE 2011. Elevated idle 1200rpm for about 30 seconds only when I start cold engine. I'm doing 8km daily. Charging 14.4v, charging 650rpm 13.8v, in the morning 12.2v, ignition on 11.9v, start 10v. Varta 60Ah. Leaking current at stand by 60mA. I replaced it for another fresh fully charged 12.6v battery 66Ah. No luck the same. I'm running out of ideas. I don't remember when it happened for the very first time. I think I would say last summer engine started without rising rpm.

video cold start at 7 o clock, 20 'C

Hello, welcome to the forum.

Your 'leakage' reading of 60mA sounds too high to me, you may have a parasitic drain issue.

Excessive current drain while shut down could well be the reason for your initial high idle speed.

Are you certain all modules have entered sleep mode when you are reading the battery drain current?

What you are seeing is normal when the battery is not holding its charge. The revs rise to 1000 at idle to put back some of the energy lost in starting because the battery voltage has dropped.

The fact that your battery reaches normal voltage in less than a minute indicates the battery characteristics are moving to that of a failed battery.

My guess is that only one cell in the battery has failed.

On the question of leakage current, there are some parts that are actively listening for about 10 minutes unless the doors have been locked. For example, you can still operate the windows even if you have turned off the ignition.

55 minutes ago, pikpilot said:

What you are seeing is normal when the battery is not holding its charge. The revs rise to 1000 at idle to put back some of the energy lost in starting because the battery voltage has dropped.

The fact that your battery reaches normal voltage in less than a minute indicates the battery characteristics are moving to that of a failed battery.

My guess is that only one cell in the battery has failed.

On the question of leakage current, there are some parts that are actively listening for about 10 minutes unless the doors have been locked. For example, you can still operate the windows even if you have turned off the ignition.

To be certain that all modules have entered sleep mode, vehicle must be locked and, ideally, hood latch switch overridden for a minimum of 20 - 30 minutes before testing for battery parasitic drain.

13 hours ago, Warrior193 said:

Hello, welcome to the forum.

Your 'leakage' reading of 60mA sounds too high to me, you may have a parasitic drain issue.

Excessive current drain while shut down could well be the reason for your initial high idle speed.

Are you certain all modules have entered sleep mode when you are reading the battery drain current?

Yup. 60mA is too high to me. My other car Passat takes 30mA :( I will try to pin point it.

But I swapped in the morning that new Varta 60Ah for another new battery charged all night with 14v and did not helped.

I locked car, put screwdriver in the hood latch and I was waiting for a 2 hours :(

Maybe that Octavia 2011 do not tolerate battery bigger than specification? I think should be 55Ah or 45Ah?

My vintage passat B5 do not care about capacity.

Or maybe power steering is current hog?

10 hours ago, kokosal said:

Yup. 60mA is too high to me. My other car Passat takes 30mA :( I will try to pin point it.

But I swapped in the morning that new Varta 60Ah for another new battery charged all night with 14v and did not helped.

I locked car, put screwdriver in the hood latch and I was waiting for a 2 hours :(

Maybe that Octavia 2011 do not tolerate battery bigger than specification? I think should be 55Ah or 45Ah?

My vintage passat B5 do not care about capacity.

Or maybe power steering is current hog?

Even if the replacement battery wasn't adapted (coded) into the vehicles BMS, it wouldn't affect the quiescent current drain when the modules are all correctly in 'sleep mode' - but it could well cause charging and battery life issues while the engine is running.

High parasitic battery drain is often the result of equipment changes or additions - apart from the battery, has anything been changed recently?

9 hours ago, Warrior193 said:

High parasitic battery drain is often the result of equipment changes or additions - apart from the battery, has anything been changed recently?

no nothing nas been changed

I would not cut my hand but as I remember elevated rpm came in May with this summer and heat wave.

On Saturday - Sunday I will try to disconnect negative terminal for a whole night, in the morning make sure battery is 12.6v and I will try to start cold engine.

I will connect laptop and see if any errors are registered in memory and check coolant temperature sensor readings.

I'm really confused if this is normal behavior (in some rare circumstances) or malfunction.

Thanks

Slightly elevated idle speed when engine is cold is quite normal, provided it drops closer to usual speed reasonably quickly. Excessive parasitic current drain isn't normal though - and should be investigated for cause.