Mk2 octavia is the same as Mk5 golf mechanically,i believe the jetta is the same platform but as micmac said there could be differences with a US spec model. I've removed the hub bolts a few times and they are definitely 27mm if they are a regular 6 sided bolt head, some are 12 point head but I can't remember the size of those, I'm sure someone here will know. 

Don't quote me on this but I think the 12 point bolt is either a 30 or 32mm, my car has one of each 6 & 12 point bolts!

 

I do recall using a 1"/something socket until I bought larger metric sockets.

 

Another angle you could try is borrowing the socket(s) from a local garage, pay and return type deal.

Edited 9 June, 20205 yr by MicMac

Thought I'd go out and check on my Skoda its a 27mm 6 sided all around so I bought a 30mm socket for nothing lol 

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is there a lot of 12 point bolts on the Skoda Octavia Scout MK2 2007  2.0 TDI Estate Engine BMM 103kw 140hp?

2 hours ago, sealover1 said:

Thought I'd go out and check on my Skoda its a 27mm 6 sided all around so I bought a 30mm socket for nothing lol 

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Why didn't you do this to begin with!!!?

 

I suspect most 12 pointers will be engine related, you will need some 12 point triple square keys for the suspension bolts.

 

No offence intended, I would strongly urge a mechanical savvy friend, preferably with tools & experience assist you.

cuz it was ****ing down here and i had my family pop round I did soon as I left,

I took my 1st engine out when I was 16 years old micmac 56 now so yea i,d say I have been at this a few years now just not with this car, i'am mechanical savvy but as you know most cars these days are different and it cant do no harm to get advice when working on new cars you've not worked on before 

 

Once done, however you achieve it, don't forget to have the tracking reset.

If  the strut is removed by the method that I use then there is no need for tracking to be checked unless there is a suspicion that it is already out (uneven tyre wear) and no need for either socket.

56 minutes ago, J.R. said:

If  the strut is removed by the method that I use then there is no need for tracking to be checked unless there is a suspicion that it is already out (uneven tyre wear) and no need for either socket.

I'd agree with that, however 'sealover1' started with a request based on "change all the shocks and springs along with the front disks" this would indicate there's a fair chance the finished article will sit differently on the blacktop

Everyone has their own beliefs & comfort zones, in the above example I would not check the tracking and I have my own Dunlop optical tracking guages, others would pay a garage to check it for peace of mind.

 

The only thing doing the above work that could influence the tracking in any way would be if the new strut had a huge bend in it i.e. not cylindrical and concentric enough to throw out the camber which would have a marginal effect on the tracking & of far less importance than the camber change.

 

The reason I invested in tracking guages was seeing what a terrible job most garages did of it, throwing the delicate things around never NEVER not even once checking the zero setting (takes 10 seconds) before using, when finding the car was within limits most if they were not being observed would change the setting on one track rod so that they could charge and in doing so put it out of track and leave the steering wheel misaligned.

 

Whenever anyone says to me they have had their vehicle tracked I ask is the steering wheel straight? Often the answer is no, I put my guages on and find its out of limits, I look for the trackrod that has been adjusted, usually I can just see the position it was and move it back, tighten the locknut and check the guage to find its then exactly where it should be.

 

Aside from the abuse of the delicate instruments the real problems started with "free tracking checks"

for us that dont have the tracking tools J.R we dont really have a choice I was of mind weather to change the ball joints and tracking arms cuz there so cheap to buy, think I will stick my head under the car and take a look at them and see how good/bad they are.

 

how much does tracking tools cost J.R  

Mine are 60's vintage classic Dunlop guages so worth a fortune to the historic racers.

 

The point I was making is that I do have a choice and I do have the knowledge and experience and when I changed the front springs on my MK2 Octavia (that I had previously checked the tracking on and knew that it was OK) I did not waste my time rechecking the tracking it would have been simply a waste of time.

 

If you are changing the track rod ends then of course you will need to have the tracking reset.

Separating the lower balljoint from the wishbone by means of the 3 balljoint bolts/nuts will upset the front alignment, better to separate the balljoint tapered pin from the hub if possible.

thats the way I would of done it anyways Mic, I think I will change the ball joints and track-rod arms and have the tracking done they dont seem to cost much and as am going to be there looking at them i may as well as I do plan on keeping my skoda 

My Octy Combi was sourced for a fair price knowing some of the abuse it had suffered.

The poor thing needed new shocks and mounts in addition to much fettling and the lowering springs I'd planned to pair with the larger (but still VAG original wheels). It's a 4x4 but it sat high like a Scout. Now it's had over 7 hours ramp time and a proper track it's actually handling better than my old 4x4 Superb III with DCC.

Most of the garage work was beyond my skillset, let alone toolset, decades of company cars can erode ability so easily.

Anyway, now it should be happy for the next few years I reckon the stock stereo can come out - the autochanger already has a home replacing a faulty unit in my partners cabrio beetle - and I'm looking at those Android units with interest 😁

No pix though, as it's all dark under there ... Monroes & Vogtland in place and one happy camper.

 

Hi guys well I went and bought a kit and had them fitted but never knew they were more sporty than the original ones and now the ride is a bit lower and though it does handle well bumps seem quite hard.

not sure what to do now keep them on or redo them as am not to keen on it being lower.

 

Coilovers kit TA-Technix - Skoda Octavia Scout 1Z - Ø55 Adjustable suspensions

EVOGWVW14/55-10

 

TA-Technix coilovers Skoda Octavia Scout 1Z – Ø55

Coilovers kit for Skoda Octavia

TA-Technix Coilover kit for Skoda Octavia are manufactured using the latest techniques with the highest quality materials and combined with aggressive pricing strategy, taking the performance accessories market by storm.

 

Skoda Octavia Scout type 1Z year 04- 13

front load: 1190 kg

rear load: 1220 kg

This product is for vehicle with 55mm suspension strut

FEATURES:

	Collars and upper mounts made from 6061 aluminum with T6 for increased hardness Our spring perches, locking collars, top mounts and some lower mounts are made from high quality 6061 aluminum. Benefits include excellent strength and aluminum helps reduce weight.
	Monotube high pressure design reduces oil leakage All of our coilovers use Monotube shocks which dissipate heat better, allows finer damping adjustment and requires a more expensive design process compared to twin tube shocks.
	Adjustable spring perch for height adjustment Some vehicles have a separate rear shock and spring. In the coilover industry we call this a “hi-low kit”. In this case you will have height adjustment via the spring perch and the lower mount of the shock. Vehicles with this type of set up can still go as low or lower than true coilovers.
	Dust boot to protect damper seal Dust boots are standard on all coilovers. We also integrate the bump stop inside the dust boot. This is more efficient and is less likely to crumble to pieces and deteriorate like other company’s designs.

Just swap them out for normal shock and springs if you don't like them as I won't have too high expectations with a budget coilover kit.

thats what am doing bought some standard ones