Apologies to those who gave me the data some time ago ,but I've lost the volume needed and can't find the answer on a search.

I'd intended doing a much overdue fluid change some time ago, but put it off

I've acquired a leak from a rear wheel cylinder and it's time for a new rear cylinder and a  bleed. Most probably the line to that cylinder has fresh fluid, but since I'm going to have to bleed ( possibly rears, and possibly fronts), it might be worth flushing out the old.

So what quantity of DOT4 do I need to flush out the system, considering that last year I had the other rear wheel cylinder  replaced and system bled.

And just in case of problems- any other source of the retaining M6 bolts . I've micked them as circa 8 mm long, but can't  find any.

Many thanks .

Found out that the wheel cylinder retaining nuts are splined, but after 16 years they were rusted in. Fortunately I've got a HGV  rescue tech close by who knew what to do - he showed the wheel cylinder an axle grinder and off  it came. As for the bolts- I had some high quality Allen bolts of same thread ,but slightly long. add one locking nut to fill the gap and lock up tight.

In practice the wheel cylinder is held on with one bolt.

 

56 minutes ago, VWD said:

he showed the wheel cylinder an axle grinder

 

Angle grinder.

If it makes any difference, I tend to use a complete 1ltr can of brake fluid when changing brake fluid, maybe if planning to carry out a fluid change, you should consider how much you should "vent" out of each wheel  cylinder/calliper than only think about system capacity.

17 hours ago, TMB said:

 

Angle grinder.

Typo - should be angle grinder. ( reminder to self  - calibrate fingers).

Next request- brakes great, but I forgot to take photos of the spring setup, and I've noticed a shudder in reverse ,plus the odd warming of the rear wheel, add to that I had a bit of a problem with the usual quality of Haynes photos. I'm about to go back in to ease my mind, but in meantime has anyone got an diagram showing the positions of springs .( it's offside rear drum), no discs.

, if it makes any difference). I must be getting senile-as last time I sorted out a seized rivit all went back to gether with ease . I said at time it was the easiest set of drums I'd ever done.

TIA

 

RUM-I was working the other way- know how much is in system ,then put in that much + a bit more. THB it's first time I've ever had to do a brake fluid change as all the other cars I've had needed parts changing that often I must hacve done many brake fluid changes over the few years I owned them.

 

 

Edited 2 September, 20205 yr by VWD

Got a couple of pics of the other side that might help.

 

 

lee - once again you've turned up trumps. That second photo is what I needed. it's the position of the top retractor spring I needed. I did a bit of digging online and found this site

https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk1/chassis/brake_brake_mechanics/repairing_rear_brake/repairing_rear_brake_drum_brake/

and a breakdown of the parts with a diagram, but it does not show the system assembled. I'll post it here in case it's of interest

No probs 👍

Did you check the nylon glide pads on the backplates when you had the shoes off?

 

 

Edited 2 September, 20205 yr by TMB

I did. They're passable, but something to get for next shoe renewal.