On 18/09/2020 at 11:42, sepulchrave said:

You should buy one the same size so that it fits in the battery box.

A three year guarantee will last three years and one day.

A four year guarantee will last four years and one week.

A five year guarantee will last well over five years.

You get what you pay for.

 

/\ /\ This all over /\ /\

 

The cars that come with the piddly 44 Ah battery always benefit from stepping up to the circa 60 Ah batteries from the TDI models. I popped into Halfords the other week to grab a battery for a friend, was in a bit of a pinch and was my only option. Her Fabia 1.2 TSI had a sub 50 Ah battery listed, I hadn't seen the car but wasn't overly convinced. I grabbed a Yuasa (5 year warranty) battery in the next size up, with the trade card discount it price matched the smaller sized battery anyhow.

On 07/09/2020 at 18:33, Wino said:

Another thing that looks non-factory is the main battery negative cable.  Can you post a better photo of the end that connects to the car body? The battery post end doesn't look 'normal' either.

 

It may be perfectly OK as it is, but worth checking I think.

 

Totally forgot to reply to this.

So it would be beneficial to get the same battery as I currently have, there is no point in searching for another model/manufacturer I guess?

I would strongly advise you to get this repaired better before doing anything much else.  This looks like a very, very amateur repair, and will not be doing the electrical/charging system of this car any favours at all.

 

 

Part number of the genuine earth cable for your car appears to be 6Q0 971 235B.  This will be very expensive new, but may well be very affordable secondhand on ebay etc.

Yeah, that earth cable is a proper bodge-up.

I keep finding things like this...I'm under the impression this car was in a frontal accident and they made all sorts of "dyi" stuff, and bad ones...does anyone has a few detailed pictures with how should the engine bay really look like? I'm determined to invest some money in it, to make it run as good as possible.

Edited 24 September, 20205 yr by Rotarski

26 minutes ago, Rotarski said:

I keep finding things like this...I'm under the impression this car was in a frontal accident and they made all sorts of "dyi" stuff, and bad ones...does anyone has a few detailed pictures with how should the engine bay really look like? I'm determined to invest some money in it, to make it run as good as possible.

 

I suggest you focus on function rather appearance, repair things that are broken, things like the wrong airbox are still doing their job properly by keeping the air going into the engine clean, other things like that terrible battery earth need fixing properly.

Yes, exactly what I'm doing, I'm focusing on making the car run as good as it can. For the esthetic parts, I'm doing the research. I tend to do that in everything I do so I'm prepared when time comes  

Ok, battery was changed, don't know if there is anything special you need to do when changing the batter besides unplugging the negative first and plugging it the last. I started the car and left it run for 10-15 minutes.  This is what I found when I removed the battery tray (see pictures) The battery tray has some sort of drainage which is obviously ruined, what's that for and where should it go? Also, what's the little yellow cap for?

L.E: Found that the yellow cap is actually for the steering pump. I'm guessing the cap wasn't tight enough and the fluid got out. Should I buy some and fill it or that requires professional work?

 

I also tried to outsource the ground cable but in Romania is way more expensive than e-bay, 100 USD the cheapest, new OEM, compared to 45 USD. I decided to try and find one second-hand.

 

I have a noob question, I'm guessing the radiator fan starts to run at a specific temp right? At what temp? The gauge was showing me 90 degrees and the fan was still off.

Also, shouldn't the head up display (I think it's called maxidot) light up when engine is on and show some info on it? It does light up when I first move the key to the first position and shows different markers but turns off afterwards. The stick is broken so I'm not sure if that's the reason why it's off and I'm trying to find some info about it.

 

Thank you for all the support and info, it helps a lot!

Edited 26 September, 20205 yr by Rotarski

The battery tray has been destroyed. It is supposed to fix down in three places, yours has at least two fixing points torn out.

The drain is to direct any acid that comes out of a leaking battery onto the ground, via a rubber hose, instead of onto metal parts.

 

Maxidot is a rare fitment, most mk1 Fabias are just like yours, warning lights only in that area.

 

Radiator thermoswitch brings the fan on at a coolant temperature of 96 or 98, can't remember exactly.

 

Edited 26 September, 20205 yr by Wino

Finding the correct codes for your parts is such a hassle...I tried to search the parts I needed but I keep getting results for VW and Seat. I do know these carry the same parts but I can't seem to find a way to be 100% this matches my car. I have to mention I'm looking into second-hand parts and they do not mention if the part can be fitted in my BMD version. Are these correct:

battery top cover - 6Q0 915 429 B

fuse box retainer - 6Q0 915 345 C

battery box - 6Q0 915 419 B

battery tray - 6Q0 915 331 D

One of your photos shows the part number of the tray, starting with 5Z0,  which appears to be incorrect for your engine code. The number you quote seems right for BMD, 6Q0915331D.

Not sure which other bits, maybe you don't need any others? Is the fuse carrying part physically broken also? There will be a part number printed somewhere on that, see what you find.

https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2007-453/9/915-915000/