I've just passed my Felicia 1.3 SPI (P reg)to my wife, and now it won't start. Or rather it does start, without fail, runs for a second or so, then cuts. I assumed it was getting fuel when the starter motor was cranking, but not otherwise. I replaced the relays, but it's still very unreliable - it sometimes runs perfectly, but usually cuts almost immediately. Has anyone any suggestions, other than start replacing electrical bits one at a time? As my wife had to sell her utterly reliable Micra to take the Skoda, she's not impressed!:(

Immobiliser?

Fuel blockage / restriction?

Been a long time since I played with petrol engines but I found that engine wont start if fault is electrical. Don't know about ECU's envolvement in this.

Does is make any difference if you press the accelerater just after you start?

Has anything happened to the car that could cause this? (long trip, standing for ages, iffy service, ect)

Hello Mate

1. Loose or faulty electrical connections in the ignition circuit

2. Vacuum leak at the throttle body in inlet manifold

3. Blocked injector/fuel injection system fault

Thats from the Haynes Manual

Also it could be the immobiliser, or the cold start sensor on the throttle body or a host of things I am probally unaware of.

Lummox may respond to this thread later, he is a Master in Skoda's

Hope this helps a tiny bit

I would have said vacuum pipe too.

But then again I know slightly less than nothing.

Thanks Folks! There is no recent event to suggest a cause, servicing has been spot on, and when it does continue to run after starting, it goes very well indeed. If it start it with the throttle open, it revs for a second, then it dies. I'll certainly check out that vacuum pipe. I discovered a local college has some expensive diagnostic kit,and gave them a try. Their readout said it's the immobiliser, but I didn't think there was one on my car (1996 spi 136), as ithe ignition key doesn't look as though it has a chip in it. If I have an an immobiliser, does anyone know where it is, and whether I can by-pass it? (Haynes appears to say nothing on this subject.) A project for this weekend I think. Thanks again for the responses - if/when I crack this I'll post the solution.

The vacuum pipe may appear ok, but when under pressure it may have a tiny split that causes loss of pressure. If that makes sense?

I discovered a local college has some expensive diagnostic kit,and gave them a try. Their readout said it's the immobiliser, but I didn't think there was one on my car (1996 spi 136), as ithe ignition key doesn't look as though it has a chip in it. If I have an an immobiliser, does anyone know where it is, and whether I can by-pass it?

My '97 1.6 Felicia supposedly had a factory-fit immobiliser (I say "supposedly" because you never actually know they're there unless they go wrong) and the key just looked like a normal ignition key, maybe a slightly chunky one but it was quite rounded so the thickness was deceptive. I wouldn't rule out a faulty immobiliser until you're 100% certain there isn't one fitted.

this is exactly how my car starts if i start it with either of my new spare keys that aren't programmed into the immobilizer yet.

sounds like you need either a new key or a new immobilizer mate

Thanks for your help folks, I think I've finally cracked it. It wasn't the key as using the spare key made no differerence. However, I found a bit of swarf on the hall sensor when I checked it. Since cleaning this, the car has started everytime. It's now 10 days since it last played up, so I'm keeping my figers crossed.

whats a hall sensor??

glad to hear its now sorted

A Hall effect sensor is a transducer that varies its output voltage in response to changes in magnetic field density. Hall sensors are used for proximity switching, positioning, speed detection and current sensing applications.

Thanks Google, but it doesn't tell me where to find one on a Felicia

It's to be found on top of the flywheel housing, to the right as you look in over the grille. It's a small black cylinder with a lead from the top, held in place by one bolt (10 mm spanner or socket). Undo the bolt and it pops out. It's a pretty robust device, but probably worth a wipe clean on the business end if you're getting running problems. Robert.