So, I've spent the last week scouring the forums, YouTube and PD owners club on Facebook for any similar faults.  The fault started after a spirited drive last week.  The glow plug light started flashing and then disappeared, slowly over the next few days the problem became more frequent and I noticed that whenever the glow plug light was flashing...the exhaust sounded a lot louder and the boost was either non existent or it would stutter.  Fast forward a week later and the glow plug light is always flashing, even if I clear it with a generic code reader it just comes back.  I have checked the vacuum lines and all seems fine.  The actuator rod doesn't move on start up or when revved but it holds vacuum.  And I can move the rod by hand and it springs back to its default position.  There was no strange noises from the turbo and it was boosting beautifully beforehand.  Can the actuator sensor fail but still manage to hold pressure as when I research the fault, it always leads to an actuator that doesn't hold pressure.  I'm stuck now and after just spending a fair bit of money on upgrades/repairs I'm dreading another big bill.  I found a wire that is going to the actuator has rubbed slightly but I don't think that could be the cause of the issue, is it possible?.  I will link an image of the wire.

 

Thanks for any help, I'm at wits end and just want my boost back.  I can't afford a new turbo or to throw money at diagnosing it as times are hard at the moment.  Cheers

oops!

Edited 27 September, 20205 yr by MicMac
misread OP.

19 minutes ago, MicMac said:

Check for damaged vacuum hose.

I've had a look at the most obvious ones and they are all intact.  I even changed the boost control solenoid.  Ive had a vacuum pump with a gauge on the actuator and it holds vacuum.  The problem started off intermittently then after a few days became permanent.  At first it seemed random and became less frequent.  Then I could hear the turbo spooling but then the glow plug light would flash and the boost would cut.  Now the glow plug is always flashing, even after removing it via a code reader.  I'm puzzled and my brain is fried trying to locate the issue myself.  I dread paying the £72 hourly rate from the only garage I know that has vcds.  

https://www.obd-codes.com/p2564

 

Check the forum for helpful locals with VCDS although it isn't the only tool in the box.

 

Given the age I suspect bad wiring/oxidised connections/sensor failure so no need to panic just yet about expensive turbo repairs.

 

I haven't had 1st hand experience with that type of unit, I take it it's a combined vacuum servo with built in electronic pressure sensor.

 

If the wiring checks out replacing the unit seems the next step as if it holds vacuum the mechanical side is good but the electronics isn't. 

 

Old-skool would have been measuring voltage/resistance but these days it'll likely be a digital/PWM signal so not so easy to measure without specific tools.

 

For most owners, if their DTC reader shows a fault you have to think things through and use the code as guidance.

 

Out of curiosity, having cleared the code.  Disconnect the sensor and rescan to see what shows up.

Edited 27 September, 20205 yr by MicMac

42 minutes ago, MicMac said:

https://www.obd-codes.com/p2564

 

Check the forum for helpful locals with VCDS although it isn't the only tool in the box.

 

Given the age I suspect bad wiring/oxidised connections/sensor failure so no need to panic just yet about expensive turbo repairs.

 

I haven't had 1st hand experience with that type of unit, I take it it's a combined vacuum servo with built in electronic pressure sensor.

 

If the wiring checks out replacing the unit seems the next step as if it holds vacuum the mechanical side is good but the electronics isn't. 

 

Old-skool would have been measuring voltage/resistance but these days it'll likely be a digital/PWM signal so not so easy to measure without specific tools.

 

For most owners, if their DTC reader shows a fault you have to think things through and use the code as guidance.

 

Out of curiosity, having cleared the code.  Disconnect the sensor and rescan to see what shows up.

I've read every forum post, guide, workshop manual etc and almost every single one points to the actuator not holding vacuum.  Mines definately is.  The "smart" actuator on this turbo takes the pressure and converts it to and electronic signal that is sent to the ecu, I think if I hook a vacuum pump up to it, pump it and then use a an ohm reader to check the voltage of the 3 pins/wires that connect to the sensor on the actuator.  The problem is I have neither device nor the knowledge of how to use the ohm reader.  I have contacted a gentleman local to me with vcds who said he was happy to help but I am awaiting another reply.  Apart from the wire in the image I linked, the rest seem intact.  Do you know if the car would be safe to drive in the meantime?.  The glow plug is constantly flashing from startup and the turbo is not spooling as the rod on the actuator isn't moving whilst the light is active.  I did disconnect the maf, the sensor on the actuator and the vacuum line to the actuator and scanned it and it was exactly the same.  I read that the smart part of the actuator can be coded out so it relies solely on vacuum but it's out of my expertese.  

It should be ok to drive in low boost/limp mode.

 

It's sounding very like the 13 year old sensor has seen better days.

 

Still a replacement actuator is quick and inexpensive to replace compared to a turbo.

 

See how cheap they are on the bay, coding may be required but that's a simple job for someone with the tool.

On 27/09/2020 at 19:58, MicMac said:

It should be ok to drive in low boost/limp mode.

 

It's sounding very like the 13 year old sensor has seen better days.

 

Still a replacement actuator is quick and inexpensive to replace compared to a turbo.

 

See how cheap they are on the bay, coding may be required but that's a simple job for someone with the tool.