Hi everyone, I am new to this forum as this is my first Skoda.

I recently picked up a 2005 Fabia mk 1 Estate Elegance with the 1.4 16v BBZ engine. It was in a bit of a state but after a month of work renovating lots of parts things are looking better. its running well now after I've given it a full service. Just a couple of jobs to go until I can just drive it!

There is a little whistle on start up from cold that disappears within a couple of seconds that I have diagnosed to be the automatic drive belt tensioner as when the belt is off it is a bit rough when rotated. I have replaced the belt to eliminate that any belt squeal.

My Haynes manual is a bit lacking about the tensioner removal and so any tips would be great. I have read somewhere on line that you cannot remove the tensioner without lowering the engine on that side as it fouls on the chassis rail, is that true? The car has air con so just the central bolt through the back.

It would seem sensible to just replace the pulley but I cannot find the correct part as at my local VW garage the tensioner and pulley come as one. No pulley appears to be available on ECP either, just the whole tensioner. (The VW garage is a lot closer than the Skoda and I have used them lots for my mk 4 GTI 1.8T)

Any ideas would be welcome.

 

Additionally, I have a little coolant leak from the fan temperature sensor screwed into the radiator that I would like to sort out. I am waiting on a deep 29mm socket to be delivered so I can unscrew it after draining the radiator and then reseal again so not sure how tight or loose it is at the moment. I had hoped to just buy a new sealing washer but it appears from the parts picture at VW for the BBZ engine that there is no washer available and that the sensor is just screwed into the radiator. However, most of the aftermarket sensors come with a washer like a sump plug does.

So I had planned on removing the sensor, cleaning everything up and then resealing with some RTV. The torque setting appears to be 35Nm or 26 lbs ft, is that correct but not sure if I can get a torque wrench in there yet. 

Once again, all thoughts welcome!

Yes, 35Nm sounds right for the thermoswitch.  Don't bother taking it out, just tighten it. 

For the tensioner pulley, just take the pulley off, leaving the tensioner in situ, pull back the plastic covers on both sides of the bearing and re-grease.  If it doesn't seem to undo in the conventional 'lefty-loosey' style, try the other way. Can't remember for sure but I think it might be conventional on a BBZ.

56 minutes ago, Wino said:

Yes, 35Nm sounds right for the thermoswitch.  Don't bother taking it out, just tighten it. 

For the tensioner pulley, just take the pulley off, leaving the tensioner in situ, pull back the plastic covers on both sides of the bearing and re-grease.  If it doesn't seem to undo in the conventional 'lefty-loosey' style, try the other way. Can't remember for sure but I think it might be conventional on a BBZ.

 

Thanks for the reply Wino!

I was hoping the pulley would undo as you are suggesting. Please tell me more about pulling back the black covers so I can regrease the bearing. Do the covers lever off or would I use a pick tool etc? I think you might be right about the direction to undo the central bolt as you use a 16mm ring spanner turning clockwise to twist against the tension of the spring in order to remove the belt. So it the belt tension was removed it would make sense the turn the bolt anti clockwise to undo Probably best to lock the tensioner with a drill bit to give something to turn against,

 

I wonder why  the OE radiator thermo switch has no sealing ring whereas most of the aftermarket versions do?

You just lever the dust covers out with something like a pick tool.  They soon give up and move, you won't cause any significant damage to them.

 

I suppose VAG thought that the plastic of the radiator end-housing would function adequately as a sealing washer, as there's effectively an annulus of it between the brass threaded insert inside, and the face of the thermoswitch, from what I can remember. To be fair, they do seem to go a dozen years or more before they start to leak.

I guess the plastic just 'does plasticity' very, very gradually over the years and temperature cycles. 

Retightening seems to work.  Just be careful not to break the latch of the connector when removing it.  If you're new to these types, watch a youtube video on the subject first.

 

29 minutes ago, Wino said:

You just lever the dust covers out with something like a pick tool.  They soon give up and move, you won't cause any significant damage to them.

 

I suppose VAG thought that the plastic of the radiator end-housing would function adequately as a sealing washer, as there's effectively an annulus of it between the brass threaded insert inside, and the face of the thermoswitch, from what I can remember. To be fair, they do seem to go a dozen years or more before they start to leak.

I guess the plastic just 'does plasticity' very, very gradually over the years and temperature cycles. 

Retightening seems to work.  Just be careful not to break the latch of the connector when removing it.  If you're new to these types, watch a youtube video on the subject first.

 

 

Ah that's great info Wino. I had watched a Youtube video showing the thermo switch being replaced on the bench and I noticed the brass threads in the hole and thought that the whole of the rad in the video must have brass black coated end tanks in comparison to my plastic end tanks, hence why I was a little unsure that 35Nm would be a bit too much torque. So plastic end tanks with a brass insert makes sense.

I am familiar with the latch connector as I have other cars with them on. I even have the correct tool to unclip them which is effective if there is room.

Thanks again and I'll probably have a go at the pulley if it is not raining tomorrow.

Any idea of the approx torque to refit the pulley bolt?

I'd be interested in seeing your connector latch tool. 

 

No idea on pulley bolt torque, just go by feel.

9 minutes ago, Wino said:

I'd be interested in seeing your connector latch tool. 

 

No idea on pulley bolt torque, just go by feel.

 

Here is an example. Push with the tool then hold the connector down with your fingers then pull back the tool to release the tab whist still applying finger pressure to the end of the connector. It leaves the end of your finger in one piece and not feeling numb!

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/12017007400

Reckon you could do some measuring and sketching of yours? Looks like a fun thing to try to make. 

2 minutes ago, Wino said:

Reckon you could do some measuring and sketching of yours? Looks like a fun thing to try to make. 

I'll take a photo in the morning alongside a a metal ruler and see if I can post it on here

23 hours ago, prt57 said:

I'll take a photo in the morning alongside a a metal ruler and see if I can post it on here

 

Sorry it is a bit later than promised but here are 3 photos showing the business end of the tool with measurements. I greased the tensioner pully today. Probably added a bit much grease as I can see some squirted out due to centrifugal force. The bearing did seem a bit dry

23 hours ago, Wino said:

Reckon you could do some measuring and sketching of yours? Looks like a fun thing to try to make. 

 

Much appreciated, and good pics. 

Those hooky/barby bits are subtle details. 

 

On 26/10/2020 at 20:32, Wino said:

Much appreciated, and good pics. 

Those hooky/barby bits are subtle details. 

 

 

Both jobs now done.

Tensioner pulley dismantled and regreased. quite tricky tightening the central bolt so jammed a long screwdriver in from the top to stop the pulley pivoting whilst tightening with the 16mm ring spanner.

 

The fan thermoswitch was not very tight explaining the leak and so the deep 29mm socket ordered from Ebay was perfect for the job. I cleaned the mating surfaces of the switch and the radiator and added a thin smear of RTV as a sealant then used the torque wrench at 26 lbs ft to get it nipped back up. I left it over night to make sure the RTV had set then replaced the coolant that I had drained out and that sorted it it out, no more leaks.

Thanks for your help Wino!