can anyone advise if my battery is scrap or could it just need charging up ?

it is a 2013 2.0L 170bhp 6 speed dsg with stop start

not been using the car much at all, noted a week or so ago that the stop/start was working intermittently then stopped all together and when starting up (cold mornings) starting up on second crank instead of 1st 

shore enough went to start it tonight and nothing just a click,tried to jump start it with my daughters car and jump leads still just clicking only tried it a couple of times and pulled the jump leads of i was in a bit of a rush so decided to use her car and try to sort my car out tomorrow.

a mate of mine borrowed me one of these small battery telling me to connect it up leave it for 5 mins and it will fire it up ?

a couple of questions am i ok to do this?

is it best the put the live on then put the neg on the earthing post? 

if this works would the battery be ok with a good run on the motorway ?

or is the battery fubard lol?

if the battery is fubard would i be better off replacing it with a stronger type of battery ?

if i do need to replace the battery will i need to get the car re coded ?

i would be great full for any help iam a bit long in the tooth now, and all the electrics on these newer cars are are bit to complicated aim shore that it isn't just me that is getting left behind a bit

cheers kev   

Following this thread, I feel my car is about 2 weeks behind your situation. Almost word for word, but I’m still at the ‘just about starting’ phase. 
 

hope you get sorted.

mine was just starting for about the last half a dozen times then tonight nothing, this spate of cold weather we are getting is going to find a lot of weaker  battery's out and the cost to replace them is unreal and not only the cost of the battery then you need to pay some one to re code the car. all the other cars i have owned over the years and there has been a few you just fitted a new battery and away you went lol.

and from what i have been reading you need to tell the flaming car its got a new battery fitted so it dont throw a hissy fit lol

thats my little rant over suppose i will just have to follow the advice the guys on here are kind enough to give me 

kev 

What’s this coding business? It’s all new to me.

iam not shore my self to be honest but from what i have been reading if fitting a new battery you will need a diagnostic tool to re code the ecu to inform it you have fitted a new battery ?

hope i have it wrong but i dont think so?

cheers kev 

To @Kevgem - When "Start/Stop"-System stop to work, this is may be the first sign of bad battery condition. If You have (or You can borrow from a Friend) battery charger, with program for "AGM"-Battery type, You do not lose anything to try to charge the battery. I think, You need to give a charge for at least 24 Hours non stop. After that if You feel the same Problem with "Start/Stop"-System or hard or bad or slow start of the Engine, especially after a day or two without a Engine start, then You have to go for new "AGM"-Battery. The coding for new battery should be done with "VCDS". It is a few minutes job but You need to find who to do it. If You buy the battery from phisical (not "On Line") Store, may be there the coding can be done. This cars have the "Battery Management System" who take care for the good health of the battery and this system charge the old battery in different way from new battery. This is why we need to tell the Car that the battery is new  If the Car is not used every Day or is used for short trips, it is good to give the battery a charge once a Month in the Winter and on two or three Months in Summer. Today's battery chargers are smart and do not overcharge the batteries..

 

Edited 5 January, 20215 yr by tuningmania

I have an older model from 2009 and it doesn't have stop/start. Its the 2L diesel engine.

 

Back in November when the first cold started my battery failed. This has happened before and always in winter. I just replaced it with new battery myself. It only required me to have the battery disconnected for a few minutes and there was no problem with the Columbus unit or anything else. A couple of the sensors tripped but they reset once i drove the vehicle about 1/2 a mile.

 

The battery i replaced was a 4yr battery and it lasted just under 5 years. They don't last as long as you think and stop start driving will play havoc with the cells. If the battery has not been changed in over 5 years then bite the bullet and get a new one. Charging it only works until you have access to a charger or another car. I had to be rescued a couple of times until i got the battery switched out. 

 

I also bought a battery online rather than going to a dealer or one of the main auto parts suppliers. Much cheaper. 

 

If your not comfortable changing it yourself go to Halfords and they will do it as you wait.

thanks very much for the help much appreciated!

for re coding the ecu for the battery dose it need to be a vcds or would one of these obd11 code readers do it?

cheers kev

right an update my mate told me to try the jump starter he has its one of these small hand held jobs if you remember i tried a good set of jump leads and my daughters car to try and start it last knight with no luck just clicking so put this starter pack thing on live to the the red terminal and earth to the earthing post next to the battery.

and it has just started up immediately with no warning lights staying on, and started really easy with hardly one crank then took the jump starter strait off, seams to be a cracking little bit of kit.

left the car running for 5mins  turned it off then tried to re start strait away and it flicked up immediately but without the jumper start attached.

do you think this battery is still no good and will need replacing ?

or could it be saved some how?

cheers kev  

how old is the battery in the car?

 

what you described with the charger is the same scenario i had. With a booster or another car it started straightaway but as soon as the cold seeped in the battery lost charge. I had a simple battery tester confirm that the battery was knackered.

 

If your battery has been in there for 4 years then you're looking at replacing it or relying on the charger all the time. 

i couldn't tell you how old the battery is i only bought the car a few months ago from a private seller?

could any one tell me if i would be better of slightly upgrading the battery or replace with the exact same one?

the battery that is on it now is a VARTA   agm 68AH  380A DIN 680A  EN/SAE/GS 

and there is a lot more with different AH and A some quite a bit more and some with just a bit more ?

could i get problems if i try and upgrade the battery a bit or would it be ok?

the way i was thinking is if i upgraded a little it would be less strain on the new battery and there for last longer ?

please feel free to tell me if i have it wrong

cheers kev 

p.s if anyone is interested! 

on some of the posts people where putting up on another thread i was reading they where interested in these small jumper starters and any recommendations i can give you the details off this one my mate borrowed me all i can say is it worked really well on my car and the battery was as flat as a witches T-T lol

 YABER Car Jump Starter 1600A Peak 20000mAh Car Battery Booster Dual QC3.0 USB

 

put this in on you tube and thats the one hope this helps 

sorry dont know how to put a link up

cheers kev

8 minutes ago, Kevgem said:

i couldn't tell you how old the battery is i only bought the car a few months ago from a private seller?

could any one tell me if i would be better of slightly upgrading the battery or replace with the exact same one?

the battery that is on it now is a VARTA   agm 68AH  380A DIN 680A  EN/SAE/GS 

and there is a lot more with different AH and A some quite a bit more and some with just a bit more ?

could i get problems if i try and upgrade the battery a bit or would it be ok?

the way i was thinking is if i upgraded a little it would be less strain on the new battery and there for last longer ?

please feel free to tell me if i have it wrong

cheers kev 

 

If 5 minutes of running meant it was ok, suggests it is marginal.   My hunch is a good charge up would be ok for now, rather than changing the battery.   

 

Without getting into a physics lesson, batteries do not hold charge as long when cold.  In addition when you start a cold engine, the oil is colder, and thus not as viscous.   Hence why in old days drivers used to be taught to dip clutch on start up in cold weather to lower the load being cranked (nowadays newer cars have a clutch interlock so need to press clutch anyway).

 

5 minutes of engine running will not really be enough to bring battery upto a good level of charge, probably need 15 minutes minimum (and that is with minimal electrical load, no wipers, electric window heaters, and lights off).  if can't really drive it decent amount, then a good automatic battery charger (eg ctek) would be good to recharge it fully.

 

Regarding coding, if the battery is a straight like for like swap, and the old one was just a bit weak, (rather than knackered), then shouldn't need to code anything as you are not telling it anything different is fitted.

 

 

witch one there are lots of them /

please excuse me but this is all new to me lol so are these things permanently fitted to the cars battery and left to do its thing i have no idea of how they work?

cheers kev

The battery should have a manufacturing date on it but you may need to pull it out to look at it. I have read in the past that older cars were under powered in terms of batteries especially with all the goodies on them. 

 

I would look to replace the battery with the largest Ah you can get. I bought a 74Ah battery for my elegance model but you could go up to 80Ah. 

RRRR right my car is a 2013 2.0 tdi 170 bhp elegance with the 6 speed auto it has all the usual electrics + dash cam front and back lights come one when i unlock the car and open doors i am presuming they may be fetchers the last owner put on he did say that he had looked after the car with vcds or would they be factory settings?

if i do upgrade a little would it then need re coding as the new battery is slightly different ?  

cheers kev

Edited 5 January, 20215 yr by Kevgem

1 hour ago, SurreyJohn said:

 

If 5 minutes of running meant it was ok, suggests it is marginal.   My hunch is a good charge up would be ok for now, rather than changing the battery.   

 

Without getting into a physics lesson, batteries do not hold charge as long when cold.  In addition when you start a cold engine, the oil is colder, and thus not as viscous.   Hence why in old days drivers used to be taught to dip clutch on start up in cold weather to lower the load being cranked (nowadays newer cars have a clutch interlock so need to press clutch anyway).

 

5 minutes of engine running will not really be enough to bring battery upto a good level of charge, probably need 15 minutes minimum (and that is with minimal electrical load, no wipers, electric window heaters, and lights off).  if can't really drive it decent amount, then a good automatic battery charger (eg ctek) would be good to recharge it fully.

 

Regarding coding, if the battery is a straight like for like swap, and the old one was just a bit weak, (rather than knackered), then shouldn't need to code anything as you are not telling it anything different is fitted.

 

 

 

Mine seems to be in this category too. As with the OP I bought this back in July so I do not know the age of the battery. Starts ok, but you can sense the crank is starting to slow a little. It of course does not help with not being able to use it regularly.

 

I have just taken a punt on one of these on amazon

 

BUDDYGO Car Battery Charger, 12V/24V 8Amp Intelligent Automatic Battery Charger/Maintainer Delivers 3 Stage Charging, with LCD Screen And have 6 Charging Mode, Suitable for More Types of Batteries

£30 and I can always return it if it is not suitable. Says it works for AGM batteries, and I can confirm the current fitted battery is an AGM one too.

I'll let you know how I get on with it. 

 

 

please do!

can anyone advise on the fitting a stronger battery amg quality with start/stop but a little more umff than the one thats on it now?

cheers kev

1 minute ago, Kevgem said:

can anyone advise on the fitting a stronger battery amg quality with start/stop but a little more umff than the one thats on it now?

cheers kev

 

I have looked at this prior to buying the charger. Not sure about coding though? From Halfords £137 fitted (at home)

 

Yuasa HSB096 Silver 12V Car Battery 5 Year Guarantee Extra Info

• Startup Power: 740amps
• AH Value: 80ah
• Bench Charge: 6amps
• Average Weight: 18.80kg
• Dimensions (LxDxH): 278x175x190mm
• Guarantee: 5 years
• Sealed maintenance free (SMF)

Same battery from battery megastore is £87.50

 

https://www.batterymegastore.co.uk/product/yuasa-ybx5096-silver-high-performance-car-battery-type-096/

 

If I can just hijack this for a minute. When my charger comes, I am not planning on removing the battery from the car. Red - Red and then do I put the negative on the grounding point or the negative of the battery? Thanks.

thanks lads but are they AGM quality and stop/start?

l have been told a replacement battery needs to this spec

cheers kev

from what i understand neg on the earthing post!

AGM is the best for stop start.
 

Charging - Red on red, black on the earth tab or a bolt head in the body nearby. 
 

Whatever battery you fit, it needs regular car use to keep it in good condition or charging once per month if you do a just a few hundred miles a month.