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Terminal 30 relay

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Hi all, sorry to return with this problem but I want to explore all possible diagnoses and solutions before attempting a repair. My Octavia is not getting power to the starter motor now, just a sort of rapid ‘camera shutter’ sound. Scan points to terminal 30 relay. A thread in briskoda directs to the engine bay fuse box. I’ve looked in the fuse box (see image) but where is ‘terminal 30’ in here ? Any help much appreciated ! 

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Sounds like a new battery needed. Terminal 30 is on the relay itself.

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There only looks to be one relay there, so it's probably that one!

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Sorry, woefully ignorant in car electrics - so module “100”  looking here is the elusive terminal 30 relay ? Should I replace the battery or this relay 100 then ? Thanks.

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Tell me what year your car is so I can find the right wiring info.

It could well be a flat battery, do you have a multileter to measure its voltage? Or a charger to charge it up a bit?

Edited by Wino

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It’s a 2012 1.6 diesel. Just got my ancient multimeter out to check the battery. Thing is it’s been firing up ok, no indications of a dying battery.

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OK, I'll look at the diagrams while you measure the voltage. :)

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Where have you seen reference to the "Terminal 30 relay"?

The (100) one in the photo is the "Diesel direct injection system relay".

 

The starter solenoid is driven by the so-called Terminal 50 voltage supply relay, but that's in the cabin, not under the bonnet, apparently.

 

 

 

 

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It’s what my scanner reports, same on two scans now. 

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Does the car have start-stop?

There are different systems for starter control if it does, obviously.

 

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No start stop, that must have come after 2012.

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Terminal 30 refers to connections directly to battery positive, by the way. 

What scanner are you using, and is there a code number as well as the words?

 

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Sure is. Full readout is:

 

 “ Central electrics. 02391 terminal 30 reference” 

 

this  is a VW, Skoda, Audi specific scanner I’m using.

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2 minutes ago, Tony12 said:

No start stop, that must have come after 2012.

Wiring diagram suggests it was an option from May 2011.

 

The info about terminal 50 relay is from the non-start/stop version though.

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The scanner is an autophix 5600.

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While you're measuring battery voltage (or just before or after!) try wriggling each fuse up and down in its holder, or inspect their contacts, see here: 02391 - Ross-Tech Wiki (ross-tech.com)

Don't be tempted to pull out more than one at a time, you'll lose track of where they came from.

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I’ll go check the state of the battery, it’s probably due for replacement anyway.

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If it's the factory original, it could well be struggling, but measure volts and go by evidence rather than guesswork.

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Thanks that’s sound advice. I’ve checked a couple of 30 amp fuses (terminal 30 ?)both in the cabin and engine bay, look pristine. Will check again.

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Just done a battery charge and ageing check - flat as the proverbial pancake. If the scale was bigger I think the needle would have continued going down.

The meter is working ok, despite its 30 years.

Ill sort a new battery tomorrow, this one looks like nothing has been disturbed since 2012.

 Thanks for your help here Wino, much appreciated. I’m tempted to go back to my 1965 Morris minor, no nasty computers or relays !!

 

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8 years isn't bad going for a battery on a modern car.  If you had a battery charger I'd suggest giving it a go, as lots and lots of batteries across the country will be going flat lately simply through the combination of disuse and cold.

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Thanks I’ve got an automatic charger, I’ll put that on it in the morning and give it a boost. Still think I’ll invest in a new battery. If my wife ends up stranded I’ll get it in the neck ☹️.

Failing factory fitted battery on my similar car caused multiple warning lights on the dash plus relay chatter on trying to start.  The battery read around 11V off load, but clearly went lower on load. New battery fitted after 7 years.

The battery on my Mk1 Octavia (no fancy electronics) lasted 13 years and would turn the engine over from a much lower battery voltage.

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The electronics are getting more complex and sophisticated every year, but I’m not sure about more owner friendly when fault codes start flashing up. Too many sensors ! The only thing I had to worry about once were the points.

        I fitted my new battery today replacing the original Varta factory fitted one. No issues with the radio code as I’d feared there would be or anything else.

    Did another scan today, issues I’d found before still coming up. Camshaft sensor, engine control module, Terminal 30 reference ???, passenger window switch. Last one doesn’t concern me too much. 

My dilemma now is; good independent local garage, or auto electrician to sort the above out ?  I’d be interested in any advice/opinions on the best way to have these problems investigated and fixed - short of hiring a space shuttle technician !

 

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Did you clear the codes after fitting the new battery?

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