Karoq 2.0Tdi (150hp) DSG 4x4
 

Was out moving the car on the drive a little while ago, usual start up letting the glow plug light go out and cranked.  When I went to back the car up in front of my gate, up a slight hill that was very icy, she struggled to move and the glow plug light was flashing.

 

 

Went back in to house to check the manual and found:

 

Diesel engine control faulty
flashes
Driving in emergency mode is possible - a noticeable reduction in engine performance may occur.
› Continue driving, exercising appropriate caution, and seek the help of a specialist garage.

 

Went out to see if it was still showing the faulty, no flashing light and nothing in the vehicle status screen.

 

 

Any thoughts out there?  Hopefully just a ghost in the machine.  

 

Check your brake lights - I've had this in 2 previous cars!

As in blown bulbs?  Will check tomorrow when out, drive is sheet ice at the mo so not a good idea to get MrsDSL out of the nice warm living room to look at back lights. 

Switch on brake.

Many thanks, will see how it’s playing tomorrow.  If it does it again will give Skoda breakdown peeps a ring as the car is under able when it’s flashing.  Just popping into my local Skoda dealer isn’t an option, lockdown aside, as the nearest one is over 100 miles away after they closed the Inverness dealership.  

37 minutes ago, DSL said:

Many thanks, will see how it’s playing tomorrow.  If it does it again will give Skoda breakdown peeps a ring as the car is under able when it’s flashing.  Just popping into my local Skoda dealer isn’t an option, lockdown aside, as the nearest one is over 100 miles away after they closed the Inverness dealership.  

The Skoda website is showing 

Hawco ŠKODA

 

SEE RETAILER DETAILS

Harbour Road IV1 1UF 

Inverness

 

as an authorised repairer. Is that any help??

 

Chris

That’s the “local” VW dealer, never thought of them.  
 

PS After lockdown’s over.

Edited 16 January, 20215 yr by DSL

2 hours ago, DSL said:

That’s the “local” VW dealer, never thought of them.  
 

PS After lockdown’s over.

Looks like they've taken on repairs for Skoda as well then. 

Agreed, looks like it.  Now I think about it I did see Skoda signs outside when I last passed it way back in late summer.  

 

Will see how she is when heading out this morning.  

If the light is flashing and presumably going into limp mode there will be an underlying issue. The coil light usually indicates an issue with but not limited to:

 

The boost system

The throttle 

The fuel system

 

Have the dealer scan it but don't leave it. It will come back on at some point.

 

The outer brake light issue has been buried by the introduction of hot bulb monitoring systems.

Many thanks, will get it booked in after lockdown is eased a bit, or SWMBO is vaccinated.  Mrs DSL is now in a shielding category so it will have to wait as we’re not taking any unnecessary chances with Da Bug.  The car’s been out today and all well, but we know it can return.  If it comes back and doesn’t reset on restart we’ll just use SWMBO’s car and get the breakdown peeps out.  

 

What does the owner's manual say?

I strongly advise getting it to a dealer or at least phoning the dealer.

I no longer have a diesel but could this be a DPF issue? Diesels notoriously don't like lots of short journeys (the reason I now run a petrol). 

Does the fan run for a little while after you turn off the engine? In which case you are interrupting a regeneration, too many of these and you have a real problem.

Have you checked the engine oil level?  Interrupted regenerations lead to the excess diesel pumped into the combustion chamber (to do the regeneration) running down the bores and raising the engine oil level. 

Subject to what the dealer says, and I know it's marginal re the rules, but I would take it for a 15 - 20 mile dual carriageway run keeping the revs up i.e. not in top gear. This should get the engine hot enough for the DPF to do a regeneration. 

 

Hope you get it sorted. 

 

tom

 

 

 

The fan has been running on lately so regen interrupted.  Just been out for 29 mile drive on a reasonably fast A road (no d/cways anywhere near here) mostly with the gearbox held in 5th and at 2,500rpm, hopefully flushed out the DPF and fan wasn’t on when I stopped, with either engine on or shut down.  Is there anyway to see if the regen is operating when driving?  Can the oil temp be used as an indicator?  My oil temp got up to 106c then dropped off to 101c but no idea if that is normal as I don’t usually lock the gearbox in 5th.  Why oh why can’t manufacturers put some kind of indicator in place to tell the driver that the DPF burn is in progress so they can choose to keep going until it completes?  S’pose the reasoning will be along the lines of we’ll single handedly kill off all the polar bears with the extra miles so best not give the driver that choice, it doesn’t matter that he’ll have to shell out for extra oil changes or maintenance.  Cynical, moi?   My “normal” type of driving is lots of long hauls (now banned) then using SWMBO’s car as the run around but with the snow and ice up here we’re using Skippy, silly using a fwd Jazz, on full winter tyres, when we have a decent 4x4 available, also on proper winters.  Our drive and access road are like skating rinks and too slippery to even try and walk on. 
 

Oil level looks normal, at the top of the dipstick range as it was last time I checked it a couple of thousand miles ago. 

 

 

If the car needs your help to regen it will bring up a warning on the dash. The coil light won't flash up on it's own for a dpf soot loading related issue.

Thanks, again.   Will keep an eye out for the coil light, though if last time was anything to go by it’ll be very obvious as the car struggled to back up a slightly sloping driveway.  Hopefully my little blast will clear out the DPF for now anyway.   

The higher engine temperature maybe a sign that a regeneration is taking place. Certainly that is the way the system burns it off. 

 

On my previous car, a Yeti tdi, I never had any idea as to when a regeneration was happening until I stopped and heard the fan running. There was no indication on any of the warning lights on the dashboard.  Never had any problems until I had the "fix" (don't get me started on that subject).  I only stayed with a Skoda because I liked the petrol Karoq and my local dealer (Vindis, Bury St Edmunds) well looked after me through all my car problems.

 

On the Briskoda Yeti Forum some were using a VAG DPF App, OBD plug, to monitor the state of the DPF. Don't know whether it would work for Karoq diesels. Perhaps someone here would know.  

 

When I was looking to get rid of my Yeti I looked at a diesel Land Rover Sport. At least the salesman was straight with me when he said that I should take it for a 25 mile run at least once a week. 

 

As it is, nearly all my journeys are under 3 miles and with Covid restrictions now not even doing the occasional long run, buying a petrol car was the right decision for me. 

 

tom

Edited 17 January, 20215 yr by Sanqhar

Unfortunately 0.75 mile trips to the local woods doesn’t suit a DPF but it’s just too slick at the mo to use SWMBO’s car.  And more snow is forecast for middle of next week.   

When the regeneration is ongoing, the rpm at idle stay at around 1000 and the start/stop is disabled. It also generates more heat from the engine compartment. If you turn off the engine then, the fan will continue running for some time.

Edited 17 January, 20215 yr by Gabi4

Good to know re the higher rpm, I just have to get MrsDSL trained to look at the rev counter before reaching for the key to shut the car down. 

 

Stop/start hasn’t worked since I started doing only short journeys, apart from immediately after charging up the battery.  Even SWMBO has stopped pressing the “this button stops the very annoying engine stopping at junctions” button.  

2 hours ago, DSL said:

Good to know re the higher rpm, I just have to get MrsDSL trained to look at the rev counter before reaching for the key to shut the car down. 

 

Stop/start hasn’t worked since I started doing only short journeys, apart from immediately after charging up the battery.  Even SWMBO has stopped pressing the “this button stops the very annoying engine stopping at junctions” button.  

 

There are other posts re start/stop. I wouldn't get too hung up on it. I mainly only do short journeys and the start/stop is rarely working on my petrol 1.5 tsi SEL.

One controlling factor is the state of battery charge.  Remember charging does not occur all the time, a lot is done on engine overrun/coasting. 

 

tom