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Clutch slipping!


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1 hour ago, varaderoguy said:

I would go for the Sach's kit; but you need to decide WHICH Sach's kit to go for.  Recommend that you need to probably go for the Performance Clutch Pack and lighten flywheel kit - which supports 530nM of powered effort against it (just shy of 300bhp at 4000rpm).

https://www.sachsperformance.com/en/clutch-kit/performance-clutch-sachs/clutch-with-flywheel-883089000126

 

 

Thanks for your responses again guys. They are much appreciated. It seems there is no easy answer to this and i have seen mixed responses about some people having no problems with the factory clutch and others needing an uprated one, some seem to last ages other don't. I much admit, I think the price quoted is for a standard Sach clutch and flywheel, so i guess this will be a like for like replacement. If my standard clutch is already worn after 16k miles (having had the car since new) I worry i will be in the same boat again after another 16k. Believe it or not, i didnt rag the car either and i am really easy on the clutch. I am not doing the quarter mile every time i drive it so I am shocked that im already getting slippage. But it is what it is. I suppose I might have to bite the bullet and pay for an uprated clutch, although with fitting, i guess this could end up costing me £1500+???

 

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On 06/03/2021 at 21:41, varaderoguy said:

I would recognise a failing DMF as metal clanking from the gearbox area. There is a nice article here.

https://www.phoenixfriction.com/t-symptoms-of-dual-mass-flywheel-failure.aspx

Unfortunately the information they give regarding testing them is incorrect, plus no mention of the underlying causes as to why they can make a noise. 9/10 times a noisy DMF is a symptom of another issue, more so if the mileage is below 70k. Think of an engine/DMF like a washing machine, if it is empty it will spin quite happily without vibration. Put a load in there that is slightly off balance and it will shake around - a DMF is affected in the same way, add an imbalance in the crank (poor injector(s), uneven compression, faulty EGR systems etc) and the DMF will absorb some of that vibration for a while, but will wear out quicker.

Plus NEVER replace a DMF with a single mass on a modern performance engine (especially anything common rail) as it will lead to damage down the line.

So if you have a noisy DMF, make sure that the engine management system is checked when it is replaced to ensure that it lasts as long (if not longer) than the original - obviously driving style etc plays a big part in how long they last as well.

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55 minutes ago, NoGGy said:

I suppose I might have to bite the bullet and pay for an uprated clutch, although with fitting, i guess this could end up costing me £1500+???

Either pay an uprated clutch now (an extra 300 quid) or pay for another one in another 20k....I think I know which way I would go.

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On 10/03/2021 at 09:59, varaderoguy said:

Either pay an uprated clutch now (an extra 300 quid) or pay for another one in another 20k....I think I know which way I would go.

All sorted. Getting an uprated clutch kit fitted. Not changing the flywheel at this stage, but since the cars only done 16k I'm sure the OEM is fine. I'll let you know how it goes! 

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The issue isnt that your sts clutch is worn. The issue is that the remap is making too much torque for it to handle. If you went back to a std map the car would drive fine.

Glad you are getting it sorted. This is one of the reasons I dont modify cars anymore. One cost leads on to another and so on.

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1 minute ago, Ecomatt said:

The issue isnt that your sts clutch is worn. The issue is that the remap is making too much torque for it to handle. If you went back to a std map the car would drive fine.

Glad you are getting it sorted. This is one of the reasons I dont modify cars anymore. One cost leads on to another and so on.

Yeah tell me about it. You are right, but many garages I've spoken to do think the standard clutch should cope with a stage 1.5 fine. You are right, when I drive the car gently it copes ok, but both garages I spoke to are surprised it slips. The clutch should be good for 450nm (apparently) maybe Im Producing more then that. I won't know for sure until I get it on a rolling road. 

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1 minute ago, NoGGy said:

Yeah tell me about it. You are right, but many garages I've spoken to do think the standard clutch should cope with a stage 1.5 fine. You are right, when I drive the car gently it copes ok, but both garages I spoke to are surprised it slips. The clutch should be good for 450nm (apparently) maybe Im Producing more then that. I won't know for sure until I get it on a rolling road. 

A lot depends on the map itself. If it is asking for a lot of low down torque that is a killer of clutches hence the slip. Also being in too high a gear and putting your foot down can cause clutch slip. Best to change down a gear and then put foot down as it easier on the clutch.

You may find the uprated clutch is heavier than the std one but should still be fine as a daily drive.

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4 minutes ago, gon said:

I just don't get why you are shocked ???

shouldn't even be surprised, nevermind shocked :blink:

 

Well, I'm not shocked or surprised. But there are plenty of people on here that have had stage 1/2 remaps on the OEM clutch without any issues at all. I'm not running 500bhp or 550nm so in theory it should be fine. I've had stage 1s on my previous cars and the clutches were fine even after 50k miles. My cars done 16k, and it should be fine. But I guess it's luck of the draw. 

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On 06/03/2021 at 21:19, NoGGy said:

I fitted an induction kit around 12 months ago and have just had a custom exhaust fitted, Hi flow cat and a stage 2 remap. The cars putting out about 320-330bhp (will validate on a rolling road soon). I've never had the clutch slip once and the car is basically not driveable. The clutch slip is so bad I can't get the power down. 

 

I'm massively shocked as the car has only done 18k and I never had clutch slip at all before the remap.

 

your first post says you are? or at least were ?

Clutches are designed like a fuse, they are the first one to go and that way protect your engine, gearbox, driveshafts, etc.

The are designed for the torque of the engine + a safety margin but certainly not 40%.

 

Edited by gon
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21 minutes ago, gon said:

 

your first post says you are? or at least were ?

Clutches are designed like a fuse, they are the first one to go and that way protect your engine, gearbox, driveshafts, etc.

The are designed for the torque of the engine + a safety margin but certainly not 40%.

 

Yes true. I should have said, since everyone's feedback, I'm less shocked/surprised. But, it doesn't negate the fact that I've spoken to 3-4 garages and all of them are surprised my clutch is already not coping at only 16k. Im not ragging the car everytime i drive it. And tbh I do less then 10k a year, but it is what it is. And I agree with you it clearly needs to be uprated. 

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What will really reduce the life of the clutch is driving swiftly getting on the throttle and off the clutch quickly on upshifts and to a lesser degree standing starts. which lets face it, after having a remap it would be rude not to do :D

 

The plastic "clutch bleed block" is referred to by VAG as the "clutch torque limiter" when driving gently, slow gearchanges, slow re-engagement of clutch & accelerator on upshifts there is no ill effect, do it a little faster and the internal fluid return restrictor will only release the clutch slowly against full throttle & turbo spool up resulting in clutch slip, you barely notice it and wonder if you have imagined it but it has a cumulative affect & will kill the clutch resulting in slip on wide open throttle/full boost in the higher gears.

 

It is there to protect the drivetrain from "dump the clutch" drag starts AKA sidestepping the clutch especially on 4wd models, but instead of limiting the engine torque it slips the clutch :sadsmile:

 

Edited by J.R.
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