Had intermittent issues with front l

Right light cluster, and then found this!!

 

Anyone else experienced this? I found previous threads with issues with this fuse, but mine melted and didn't blow.

 

Anyone got a spare fuse box?

 

Cheers

 

Conrad

You had that car since new?

 

Looks to me like somebody probably put massive bulbs or oversized Xenons in the lights, pulled too much juice then went back to standard.

That or they put a far larger fuse in than should have been there and the box couldn't take the heat (But that seems unlikely tbh)

 

Another option, could be that water has got in there, rusted the fuse and caused heat at the function where there has been arcing etc.

Its arcing, probably caused by the fuse recieving contacts not having enough spring tension or having been sprung open.

No, I bought it a few months ago just before winter hit, couldn't face another winter on a motorbike in a pandemic.

 

Your thinking is logical, but this fuse only seems to affect the front right light cluster (that's the cluster that has intermittently been cutting out). Putting a large fuse in there would have been idiotic, I don't know the history of the car, but it was owned by some reasonably smart people from what I understood.

 

No evidence of water ingress on the fuse or fuse box. However can't rule it out either given the state of that fuse.

 

I did a little reading.

 

If a fuse has a poor connection (pins not tight enough, oxidisation etc) it creates a lot of resistance. The resistance creates heat. This is all happening while the amps are not high enough to blow the fuse. These are the conditions under which fuses melt but don't blow.

 

I've bought a new fuse, I'll try and tighten the socket it locates into, but don't hold much hope given the sight of it. If I get any more issues I'll be looking for a fuse box from a breaker and expect that to be the end of it.

Trim away some of the burnt/melted plastic (and vacuum out the debris) to give yourself a better view of the contacts before attempting to clean and snug up the contact surfaces.

There are a few similar posts on this forum. Thought to be water corrosion initially causing the contacts to run hot. 

One other poster found corrosion on the other side of the board too in a different location.

Other posters replaced the complete assembly at not too bad a price.

1 minute ago, pikpilot said:

There are a few similar posts on this forum. Thought to be water corrosion initially causing the contacts to run hot. 

One other poster found corrosion on the other side of the board too in a different location.

Other posters replaced the complete assembly at not too bad a price.

Thanks for the input.

One to ask GSF car parts about a quote for a new box? Or the other members did so from breakers?

12 minutes ago, BristolBikerMan said:

Thanks for the input.

One to ask GSF car parts about a quote for a new box? Or the other members did so from breakers?

 

One replaced with a breaker part but be aware there is a huge number of variations depending on model, year and options.

Will see what the cost of an OEM one is and go from there.

I've had a further read and couldn't find anything concrete on here. Just that a guy replaced his fuse every year or so for the same issue.

 

I've put a new fuse in and then pulled it, it has 4 nice scratches, 2 on each leg of the blade, showing there is good contact. The existing fuse was oxidised also.

Will just replace the fuse, and keep the spare 30a in the glove box, that's the most sensible and cost effective thing to do right now.

It might be that the poor contacts are between what connects to the fuseholder and downwards, rather than fuseholder to fuse.  I had a quick look at parts lists earlier but wasn't sure what year your car is?  The part I found appeared to have male spade contacts beneath there, not sure if wires go onto those or what, but without the manufacture date I wasn't sure I was definitely looking at the right bit.

 

Cheers, its an 09 2.0 VRS FL. I think that as the fuse was oxidised thats where the issue was? Maybe I was just unlucky and will never have a problem again.

I'm struggling to see a direct correspondence between fuse positions on the topside and male contacts on the underside, but I think your fuse/relay panel will either be this part number or the same with a C at the end. Not sure of the difference but photos in other ebay listings may reveal something, possibly. VW AUDI SEAT SKODA GOLF SCIRROCCO 1.6L 2.0L TDI CFG FUSE BOX 1K0937125D | eBay

 

At least one listing I saw for the suffix-C part number had some dirty-looking contacts on the underside there.  VW Golf MK6 2.0 TDI Fuse Box 1K0937125C 1K0 937 125 C | eBay

 

Someone with more familiarity with the arrangement here will know if there are wires going directly onto those male contacts, I guess so?