On 16/12/2024 at 21:33, Llanigraham said:

What type of tow bar wiring do yiu have? The proper factory type loom or the cheap (and nasty) relay type?

 

Not sure to be honest, as it was already fitted when I got the car. I've never used the tow bar, but I've always questioned the way the bottom trim was cut too – definitely seems like a cowboy job.

 

I've just taken some photos if they are of any use...

On 16/12/2024 at 22:33, Llanigraham said:

What type of tow bar wiring do yiu have? The proper factory type loom or the cheap (and nasty) relay type?

 

Nothing nasty about the modern high impedance towing relays, they are a million miles away from the old type where you had to space coil windings out around a reed switch to tune the detection circuit for the audible indicator warning.

 

Cheap? well yes compared to the manufacturers rip offs which should also be cheap.

 

I do agree that the sound is probably coming from that source, that it is waking up the dash display suggests to me that it is a more expensive version with Canbus communication, the cheap basic ones work faultlessly which could not be said of their predecessors.

5 minutes ago, J.R. said:

 

Nothing nasty about the modern high impedance towing relays, they are a million miles away from the old type where you had to space coil windings out around a reed switch to tune the detection circuit for the audible indicator warning.

 

Cheap? well yes compared to the manufacturers rip offs which should also be cheap.

 

I do agree that the sound is probably coming from that source, that it is waking up the dash display suggests to me that it is a more expensive version with Canbus communication, the cheap basic ones work faultlessly which could not be said of their predecessors.

 

What would you recommend I do to rectify the issue? Would it require an auto electrician to rewire the tow-bar electrics? Trouble is the fault is hard to reproduce, but at least I'm getting closer and closer to the source.

2 hours ago, J.R. said:

 

Nothing nasty about the modern high impedance towing relays, they are a million miles away from the old type where you had to space coil windings out around a reed switch to tune the detection circuit for the audible indicator warning.

 

Cheap? well yes compared to the manufacturers rip offs which should also be cheap.

 

I do agree that the sound is probably coming from that source, that it is waking up the dash display suggests to me that it is a more expensive version with Canbus communication, the cheap basic ones work faultlessly which could not be said of their predecessors.

Whilst that might be true, none of the relay type will integrate to the various systems that the full loom type do, like the stability control, or security systems.
And to be honest they aren't that much cheaper than doing the job properly!

2 hours ago, waheedarshad said:

 

What would you recommend I do to rectify the issue? Would it require an auto electrician to rewire the tow-bar electrics? Trouble is the fault is hard to reproduce, but at least I'm getting closer and closer to the source.

Unfortunately your photos earlier only show the socket ends of the system. The bits that could be causing the noise are hidden behind the boot liners and in and around the fuse box.

A quick test to confirm whether you have a full loom or a relay type system fitted: 
With the trailer plugged in, ignition on, select reverse. If the full loom type fitted the mid dash screen will display a large trailer icon.
With the trailer plugged in, lock the car with the fob, then unplug the trailer. If the full loom type fitted the alarm will sound.

Personally I would be talking to an auto-electrician and if he can't rectify the problem have the full loom system fitted by someone who can fit that and reprogramme the car to activate the numerous systems.

They are way way cheaper, I appreciate they do not have the functionality which the integrated systems claim to have but they have no value to me.

As Llanigraham said but also try coupling something to the towing socket, a trailer board ideally, then use the indicators, you should have an audible or visual cue that the trailer indicators are working, hopefully audible, hopefully sounding like the phantom beep to prove you have correctly identified the cause.

 

Many trailer wiring installations are awful, I would check the connections in the back of the socket, they may be corroded or have pulled out, also the connections where the relay wires are spliced into the rear light wiring.

 

Is your rear washer working? The pipe joint often comes apart in freezing weather and the relays are often placed where the dripping fluid will fall.

4 hours ago, J.R. said:

As Llanigraham said but also try coupling something to the towing socket, a trailer board ideally, then use the indicators, you should have an audible or visual cue that the trailer indicators are working, hopefully audible, hopefully sounding like the phantom beep to prove you have correctly identified the cause.

 

Not nowadays. The Law changed sometime ago and now there only needs to be a warning if there is a fault, like a blown bulb, and the trailer indicators aren't working. On the Yeti (and many other cars) with a integrated system that is provided by the bulb failure system. 

Thanks for that, every day is a learning day.

 

The absence of the audible tone is my warning that the trailer indicators are not working, it also alerts me to if the trailer brake and rear lights are working because the volt drop from them changes the tone slightly.

 

With the integrated system you do not have parking sensors if you forget to plug in the trailer lead there is nothing to alert you.

 

Did the law actually change or does the bulb monitoring system meet the requirements of the existing law?

 

The now prevalence of LED lighting on trailers must be an issue for both types.

The regulations are confusing. 
The requirement is to know that the indicators AREN'T working, and how that should be done has never actually been specified. In the "old times" I've had cars that sounded when they did flash and another that sounded when they didn't! Atleast using the bulb failure system you know that they aren't.

There has never been a requirement to know about any other lights, and yet I have always thought that the all the lights are important. Atleast the bulb failure system (if programmed correctly) covers all those eventualties.

 

But if the trailer plug is not plugged in then you are blissful in ignorance (that sounds very harsh, I could not think of a milder way to say it) no trailer lighting and none of the mystical stability systems that people put so much faith in.

 

How do the integrated systems cope with LED trailer lights? I doubt that my relay would either.

 

Most of the visual indicator lamps are never installed by the towbar fitters, too much hassle running a wire forward then behind the dash then drilling a hole in the field of vision which is all but impossible often.

 

The audible ones are fitted at the back for ease, usually behind the rear side trims, when the seats are up and the parcel shelf in place nobody can hear them, I have no seats, the back is open like a van and I can only just hear it.

Whether we like it or not, the Law is the Law. 
And I should add the Law allows the sounder to be replaced by a light. My Freelanders were both wired with that with the standard LR wiring loom. The bulb was already in the dash display and just needed one wire plugging in.

I can only go on how my Yetis behaved and they didn't like LED bulbs fitted to the trailer so I had to replace the caravan bulbs with normal filament types. I've heard similar comments from users of other cars as well.

I've heard comments that it is as quick to fit the proper loom as it is to fit the relay type. I understand on my Niro there is no other way to do it due to the complexities of the hybrid system and the fact that it has no actual 12v battery.

 

The relays always operated a light (unreliably) it was only after about 30 years that they started to be fitted with buzzers as the cost of electronic components fell.

 

A proper loom would certainly be quicker than splicing into the wiring of the rear lights and have reliable connections, most splices I have seen were from bad (scotchloks) to appalling (wires stripped and twisted together, maybe a bit of solder then insulation tape) I use glycerine filled telecoms IDC connectors.

 

The big difference between a relay and the loom and controller plus any programming is price, a big big difference for a DIY person spending £100 or so on a towbar and standard electric kit, for those spending North of £800 for a "professional" fitting the extra for the module, loom and programming wont quadruple their costs.

 

My pal had one fitted by Norauto last week on his Ford Kuga, he believes it has the proper controller etc and that something has been programmed because now his reversing camera has a guide line where the towball is which it didn't before when the trailer plug is connected, unfortunately the reversing sensors are not disabled or inhibited so he has warning tones going off when he reverses the trailer, he was met with a blank expression when he took it back, they really did not seem to have any understanding of the functionality or programming.

 

It was not a language thing as he has lived and worked in France since leaving university and is now of retirement age, the most fluent speaker I know.