Hi i got a skoda fabia 1.4 16v sport 2005 the problem is that i had a bad egr vavle which i changed then it ran perfect and then after a few days it started stalling 1st at tariff lights and now everytime i let go of the throttle somtimes it trys to recover the revs itself i cleaned throttle body without removing connector and changed cam shaft position sensor which had oil in the connector which i cleaned and i need a new battery which i think it might be as it keeps draining nothing to with anything draining it i checked everything what do you think it could be thanks and i have no codes at all

Check for air leaks in the vacuum hoses, particularly the brake servo line.

Checked all the hoses and the brake servo one was cracked at the end which i taped up and was fine and now replaced 

Do you think a bad battery can cause this as the alternator is fine as on multimeter its showing 14 to 15v on idle but if i don't start the car for a day its dead and no parasitic draw on the battery i already checked that plus battery reads 12.7v but still don't manage to start thecar 

Plus when it stalls the battery warning light is on till i restart it

12.7V suggests the battery is ok but it's behaving like a bad battery although you'd get fault codes in most modules so I think the problem is electrical, possibly a bad earth.

7 hours ago, Mobear said:

Do you think a bad battery can cause this

Maybe. I'd get a deep load test from a fast fit place that will do it for free, conditional on them getting the business if the battery fails this test.

Edited 13 May, 20215 yr by KenONeill

I just received a new battery will update after install 

Installed new battery and still same checked spark plugs they look bad so will change them next when i get paid. Today I checked all senors took them off one by one and started the car to see if there is any difference but nothing errors did come up when they was disconnected so that shows they work checked fuel pump its ok and fuel filter looks abit old but Its working and checked grounds aswel all look good. so will give an update after spark plugs change if it had error code would be much easier to fix Thanks for everyone's help so far

Ok, bad spark plugs means you may have coil pack problems as well.

Ok thanks i will buy both hope it does fix the problem if not going to sell it as can't afford to spend more on it what car would you recommend that is good

9 minutes ago, Mobear said:

Ok thanks i will buy both hope it does fix the problem if not going to sell it as can't afford to spend more on it what car would you recommend that is good

 

I know of no vehicle that doesn't give trouble, the newer they are the worse it gets because emissions control equipment has become the dominant consideration.

Yea that is true i had one car that never gave major problems only normal wear and tear was an astra mk4 1.4 2005 had that car over 10 years got bored and sold it. I was on the m1 following a brand new bmw for over 100 miles and the bmw broke down I stopped to help the guy he said he only had a month brand new not good. I just wished i never sold it now 

When you changed the EGR valve, did you get it adapted via VCDS? New valves need to be coded or adapted. You mention no codes whatsoever but a proper scan with the proprietary software would be nice, plus you can get readings from every sensor in real time which helps to narrow down the issue.

Edited 15 May, 20215 yr by juanse_2691
My big fat thumb

No never adapted as not got a vcds have ordered one should be here next week but the thing is when i changed it it ran 100% fine for a week if it needed to be adapted how come it worked fine plus I think it is the coil pack and spark plugs as they  looked really bad like they not been changed ever not got a pic but they was black and the white bit was yellow and the coil pack outside  metal sleeve was brown don't think it was rust 

29 minutes ago, Mobear said:

No never adapted as the thing is when i changed it it ran 100% fine for a week if it needed to be adapted how come it worked fine

The car doesn't know the valve has been changed right away, when you disconnect the battery and change things the car runs in a "default" setup, and as it runs it "learns" what its actual running values should be, and starts taking the various actuators and sensors into account. If the valve hasn't been adapted the ECU doesn't know the real minimum and maximum values of operation of the new valve, eg. whether it's open, closed or in between. Same applies to the throttle body. I bet the EGR valve is open, inducing a vacuum leak at idle. As soon as you scan through VCDS the need for adaptation will become apparent, as the program will tell you. 

 

Good call on the spark plugs and coils though. These engines like to eat them more than petrol.

 

 

 

Edited 15 May, 20215 yr by juanse_2691
Clarification

When i had the old egr vavle which didn't work but when i disconnected the plug the car ran better but i had an error code basically telling me there is no signal from egr so my question if i disconnect the plug shouldn't it run like it did before? 

Or i could block it off just to see if it makes any difference if it don't that means its something else 

Assuming the valve is open, blocking off and disconnecting should make a difference if my theory is correct. At least it should run without stalling, but I would advise changing coils and spark plugs first just to rule them out.

 

In all honesty scanning and adapting the valve is way easier than blocking it off. Should check for vacuum leaks in the EGR line while you're there.

I checked for leaks on all pipes i could see and never found any but one thing i forgot to mention is that my old egr vavle was stuck open Plus brake servo pipe was cracked from the usual place but that didnt cause stalling issues the only code was for egr. I will go down the scanning and adapting route when i recivce my vdcs. Later i will be blocking egr vavle off temporarily to see what happens 

Its definitely the coil packs as they all got bulges/blisters on the top of all of them when it stops raining i will take some pics

On 14/05/2021 at 21:11, sepulchrave said:

 

I know of no vehicle that doesn't give trouble, the newer they are the worse it gets because emissions control equipment has become the dominant consideration.

Im sure its the coil packs look at the bulges/blisters on them 

On 14/05/2021 at 21:11, sepulchrave said:

 

I know of no vehicle that doesn't give trouble, the newer they are the worse it gets because emissions control equipment has become the dominant consideration.

 

On 15/05/2021 at 02:54, juanse_2691 said:

Assuming the valve is open, blocking off and disconnecting should make a difference if my theory is correct. At least it should run without stalling, but I would advise changing coils and spark plugs first just to rule them out.

 

In all honesty scanning and adapting the valve is way easier than blocking it off. Should check for vacuum leaks in the EGR line while you're there.

Im sure its the coil packs look at these bludges/blisters 

Yes, they're ruined, replace the lot when you replace the spark plugs.

Yes i will do will update when they changed Thanks