Im convinced this was done by the mobile autospark that came out, as when he jumped a few things a load of smoke came from behind the ignition cowling. What I cant understand, is once I replaced the battery fuse board, the car ran great for 3 days?

 

Thankfully whatever happened after the 3 days, happened on the drive!

 

Now to try and find a diode....

Diode is 1N5408 by the looks of it. That's a numeral one at the start, not a letter 'aye'.

 

Pennies to buy.

 

Can't explain the sequence of events just now.

 

Awesome!

 

Thanks for your assistance and time!

 

My eyes arent that good anymore!

 

1 hour ago, Zuglie said:

Im convinced this was done by the mobile autospark that came out, as when he jumped a few things a load of smoke came from behind the ignition cowling. What I cant understand, is once I replaced the battery fuse board, the car ran great for 3 days?

 

Thankfully whatever happened after the 3 days, happened on the drive!

 

Now to try and find a diode....

 

Letting the magic smoke out disqualifies him as an electrician, please don't use him again, he could've burned the car down 

Lesson well learnt - no worries there!

Just an update...

 

Have replaced all the damaged wiring, soldered all joints and heat shrinked.

 

Ordered diodes from Amazon, soldered new one in and heat shrinked.

 

Connected clocks.

 

Connected battery up and put Temp 80A fuse on main battery fuse spare slot.

 

Turned ignition key - life on clocks.

 

Carried on turning Car fired up and ran a bit ropey until it settled down, not surprising as apart from clocks everything else is disconnected!

 

Stop/started car at least 20 times, leaving to run for 5-6 mins at a time.

 

Just literally wrapped up the loom with friction fibre tape.

 

Will start/stop car as before, tomorrow prior to replacing dashboard etc.

 

Just want to say a massive Thanks for your assistance and guidance - it really did help!

 

 

Don't go mad with rapid closely-spaced repetitions of starter motor on/off action. 

Each time the starter solenoid is switched off it sends a reverse-voltage spike through that diode, generating a little heat. Do it too often without enough time for it to lose the heat and you may fry it again. That might be what happened when your autospark was on the case.

On 07/06/2021 at 16:16, Zuglie said:

Im convinced this was done by the mobile autospark that came out, as when he jumped a few things a load of smoke came from behind the ignition cowling. What I cant understand, is once I replaced the battery fuse board, the car ran great for 3 days?

 

Thankfully whatever happened after the 3 days, happened on the drive!

 

Now to try and find a diode....

 

He connected the battery or the jumper pack backwards (reversed polarity) the diode would then have conducted in the reverse bias direction and in the absence of a current limiting resistor the current would quickly have destroyed it.

 

I am shocked to learn that it is there and that there is presumably no reverse bias overcurrent protection, a design fault if my hypothesis is correct and a worrying one if an incompetent or careless mechanic or auto electrician can effectivelt write off a new vehicle in the blink of an eye, it also paves the way for malicious damage or perhaps dodgy insurance claims if someone has for instance run the engine without oil.

 

I would say that the auto-electrician mortally damaged the diode but it hung on for the 3 days before finally succumbing to its wounds.

 

Editted, I think that I have misused the term reverse bias, in normal use the diode is reverse biased current wants to flow to the negative side but cannot, if the voltage rises above a threshold then it becomes damaged & will conduct in the reverse direction.

Edited 9 June, 20214 yr by J.R.

Evening All,

Car is back together and running well.

Cleared all error codes etc, but still have the TPMS light staying on, and a message on the dash; Tyre  monitoring system fault'. Also have ESC warning light staying on.

Have tried to clear these with scanner, but scanner comes up with 'Link Error' when trying to check these systems.

The ESC button on the dash did light up when I put it all back together, but doesnt now; wondering if fuse has blown or connection lose.

TPMS fault has been there since everything else was reconnected, an am wondering if the Set button should light up when pressed, as it currently doesnt?

 

Any advice greatly appreciated!

 

 

 

Hi Guys,

 

In need of some Skoda spiritual guidance again!

 

The saga continues......

 

Car ran  fine for a few days, even had a long run in it - despite TPMS, ESC and power steering light showing. Cant seem to find the reason for these staying on and OBD reader either shows no codes or link error?

 

Car now wont start or turn over at all. Battery when charged, 12.75v, try to turn motor over, ignition lights go out when key turned, nothing happens, lights come back on. Battery reads 11.46v.

 

As previous posts, battery was new approx 3 months ago. Also starter motor replaced.

 

Dreading the prospect  of stripping it all down again, but if needs must....

 

Any advise greatly appreciated!

 

 

Andy