When I first got my Fabia a few weeks ago the start/stop function worked for a few days then didn't. When I drill down on the start/stop function in the infotainment system it tells me that power consumption is high - this with no a/c, fan, lights etc. I'm not bothered by the start/stop not working - I find it annoying - but I'm worried that there is an underlying issue I should be concerned about. These days I'm only doing about 40 miles a week and I'm wondering if that isn't enough to keep the battery charged and this causes the message. Any thoughts from those better informed than myself are welcome.  Cheers.

Welcome.

That should be more than enough miles for a battery in good condition, but your battery might not be.

 

Are you having pretty hot weather even though you are not using the AC? 

Thanks for the response buddy. The car is April 2019 so I would have thought the battery would be OK, but maybe not. Temperatures up here have rarely climbed above 18C in the last few weeks, so I doubt it's that. 

The high temperatures do make a difference to the battery discharging itself and taking recharge, what were the temperatures like before you got the car. If the car is new to you you probably don't know the history of it's use.

 

As put a good battery should be OK after 27 months - but - that depends on it's use and abuse, and if it's not been swapped.

 

If the car is under sales warranty then book it in.

 

The battery being in good condition and state of charge has always been important on all vehicle but even more so the more modern the car is.  If the battery gets low it may still be able to start the car and lights seem bright enough but if the computers don't hhave enough power they will play up in all sorts of ways.

 

Check the connection to the battery posts aren't loose or any crud on them, I often find them loose on other people's cars (as I often find the battery not to be "good" as I was told it was).  I doubt the earth connection to the body will be loose but previous owners can do weird stuff.

 

I would charge the battery, if possible off the car as the car drains even when just sitting there, check your cars details as to what needs resetting if you do remove the battery, with my wife's car the only thing lost was the time on the clock and that was with removing for many hours.

 

Whether on or off the car you want an appropriate charger to the battery on the car and a long slow low recharge is better than these fast modern charger (and not a booster).

 

I'd also resynchronised both key fobs after removing a car battery, just to be sure.

 

Whatever you do don't leave this as it will come back to bite your arse, if you have access to a suitable scan tool you could check for errors.

 

HTH.

 

Thanks for that. I'll try charging the battery. If that doesn't work I've got a 200 mile round trip to a Skoda dealer. As you said, leaving it isn't an option. Cheers

Have you or the previous owner(s) been using auxiliaries of high electrical consumption, inverter running four separate lots of computer screens with heated or cooled drink containers, or things like heated seats, mirrors, windows running full-time at full blast, a commercial kitchen from the boot, anything that might draw a lot of electric, or a very small amount but constantly or over very long periods when the alternator isn't running?

 

I'm in the habit of being very thrifty with car electrics, I turning all electric off (that the car allows) before I turn the engine off and turn nothing electrical on (that the car allows) until the engine is running.  I think a coin slot-meter for the car's electrics would help some, not a smart meter but money from the pocket or purse.   

 

Good luck, let us know how you get on.

 

My local mechanic checked the battery and alternator, both of which were fine. He advised me to 'hammer it down the road for a while' and after 15 miles at 3000/4000 revs the infotainment screen told me that start/stop was available.  Clearly. 40/50 miles a week ain't enough to keep the battery in a sufficient state of charge for start/stop to function. Happy Days! Thanks to all who responded.  

47 minutes ago, Chiselwizard said:

'hammer it down the road for a while'

That's the 'Italian tune-up'!  Good for the car generally and worth doing every now and then on a regular basis if you only use the car for shorter journeys.

 

50 miles a week could be 7-10 miles a day and if its return journeys that's 3.5- 5 miles per journey, it used to be 8+ miles to get the charge back in the battery from starting the engine, that's not using any other electrics, no idea now with modern cars but starting a car is still a short but very heavy load.

 

Good that the battery and alternator were checked and I could well be wrong, very, very often am, but I'd put a very small bet you might soon be back at the same situation unless you do a lot more longer journeys or charge the battery, with the appropriate charger, and a long slow charge is better.

 

Unless the mechanic used a proper professional unit you're trusting one set of electronics against another lot and with DIY units the check needs to be done a while after the car has been resting otherwise the non-pro stuff can get extraneous readings.

 

Batteries and electronics don't like things too hot or too cold so now is a good time for charging a battery.

 

Once you know the battery is fully charged you have a fixed point to work from, at the moment you don't.  If you don't use the stop/start the battery charge could be good for a while or good while depending on how you use the car.

 

Yes the alternator will help with the load but your making it work harder which is also harder on the battery.

 

As with central heating, the first cold snap of autumn or winter can weak a low battery but often they get through that and if they do it's the second cold snap they really gets them.  That's when the choice and stock of car batteries reduces on the shelves as it's herd actions or inactions.

 

The cold weather works against the battery charging and the battery has to cope with higher loads because of the extra electric and facilities you use on the car in colder weather and often wet and dark.

 

Look up one of the most common causes of breakdown call outs, most, in fact the vary majority, of this particular call out  are avoidable, no wonder the RAC are/were selling car batteries.

 

Let us know how you get on I'd be happy to be proved going battery OTT.  

 

Cheers.

Edited 10 August, 20214 yr by nta16

You're spot on. I do a four mile each way trip, 5-6 days a week, which clearly isn't enough to keep the battery charged.  I couldn't care less about the stop/start as such but it turned out to be a warning. Got a charger in the garage but to save b---g about with extension leads thought about something like this. Many thanks for your advice.

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/battery-maintenance/battery-chargers/halfords-advanced-smart-battery-charger-plus-238350.html?istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istFeedId=367c5610-f937-4c81-8609-f84582324cd6&istItemId=iwlrttqqw&istBid=t&_$ja=tsid:94971|cid:1034356518|agid:51236243736|tid:pla-1393979199789|crid:244691896474|nw:g|rnd:1966583497197087680|dvc:c|adp:|mt:|loc:1007385&src=3bpdp&gclid=CjwKCAjwx8iIBhBwEiwA2quaq9l6FzbOcoxAxaxohT-B86QZVsQUcbrOeNQKr-DOKDo957Wj66B87hoCoH4QAvD_BwE

 

I think that unit is being a little mis-sold if anyone is looking at those photos and thinking to themselves that it's a standalone thing that doesn't need to be plugged into the mains?

11 hours ago, Chiselwizard said:

My local mechanic checked the battery and alternator, both of which were fine. He advised me to 'hammer it down the road for a while' and after 15 miles at 3000/4000 revs the infotainment screen told me that start/stop was available.  Clearly. 40/50 miles a week ain't enough to keep the battery in a sufficient state of charge for start/stop to function. Happy Days! Thanks to all who responded.  

Yikes! I do a lot less than 50 miles most weeks since lockdown & working from home. I'll have to keep an eye on my battery.

https://www.ctek.com/fr/chargeur-de-batteries-12v-24v

 

12 hours ago, Chiselwizard said:

Got a charger in the garage but to save b---g about with extension leads thought about something like this. Many thanks for your advice.

If you disconnect the battery from the car (check your book for requirements) you don't need the extension leads, you can lock the car without the battery, and the battery will charge faster (but not fast).

 

The chargers do need plugging into mains electric, a long. low and slow charge will stick more. 

 

I don't like the 6-amp much prefer the slower 3.8 amp of the likes of C-Tek (as an example) but it may take longer. - https://www.halfords.com/motoring/battery-maintenance/battery-chargers/ctek-ct5-start-stop-battery-charger-203734.html

 

https://www.ctek.com/uk/battery-chargers-12v-24v/ct5-start-stop-uk

 

Now I know it's not macho and beyond the comprehension of some male brains but before using RtFM to see which setting is best for the circumstances and time of year and the operating requirements of the unit, remember if it's too hot or too cold the battery doesn't charge as well and the electronics of the charger won't be happy, though the C-Tek seems to have a very wide range for ambient temperature. - https://www.ctek.com/storage/D552D34DE68AA1908A3833CD1AE39CCFD3828E5B450EDAFBD080D6CE33F41315/6152a2edc4db4d8a95f37629cfbc32ea/pdf/media/f4dedf4b0b2146aeb94022cf1a8dbc18/CT5_START_STOP-manual-low-UK-EN.pdf

 

HTH.

 

CT5_START_STOP-manual-low-UK-EN.pdf

Edited 11 August, 20214 yr by nta16

2 hours ago, FabiaDrive125 said:

https://www.ctek.com/fr/chargeur-de-batteries-12v-24v

That is brilliant!

I have a NOCO Boost X GBX155 as a "This will get it going!" solution, but the CS Free looks like a way better solution.

3 hours ago, Wino said:

I think that unit is being a little mis-sold if anyone is looking at those photos and thinking to themselves that it's a standalone thing that doesn't need to be plugged into the mains?

Good spot!

I think they are being very slippery there.

There's no mention of needing mains/240 power in the description. There's clearly a 3rd lead coming out of the unit, but only the 12v croc-clips are shown.

I'm amazed that modern car drivers think 50 miles a week is fine, 50 miles a day could probably only be two 25-mile journeys, not only the battery but the engine oil and other systems might not get fully warmed in 3-5 miles, certainly in winter.

 

I get this with the old farts with overpriced old cars called "classics" trying to get them to understand that to keep it running well regular reasonable length journeys are necessary of at least 25-50 miles and they can be on the many dry and sunny days of late autumn, winter and early spring when many think it's best to hibernate them, and I encourage them when possible to actual drive the more sporting examples as they were designed for rather than perpetuating the idea the cars are slow, don't handle and are unreliable.  Very rarely do I succeed.  

 

Edited 12 August, 20214 yr by nta16
speeling and stuff

4 minutes ago, nta16 said:

I'm amazed that modern car drivers think 50 miles a week is fine, 50 miles a day could probably only be two 25-mile journeys, not only the battery but the engine oil and other systems might not get fully warmed in 3-5 miles, certainly in winter.

There's been a concerted effort to get people to use their cars less and less, both by seemingly ever increasing taxes on car use (VED, fuel etc.), congestion charges, and environmental campaigns pointing to the local pollution issues cars cause. So it's not surprising that people are using their cars less.

Sometimes I only use my car once a week, to pop to the local supermarket for the weekly shop, and that's about a 5 mile round trip. So I tend to take a circuitous route to the supermarket and ensure I get my car up to temperature (oil temp over 60 degrees, not water) by the time I arrive.

 

Now the covid lockdown is lifting, I'm likely to be back in the office at least once a week, which is a 15-20 mile round trip, mostly motorway, so that will do the car good.

 

3 hours ago, Wino said:

I think that unit is being a little mis-sold if anyone is looking at those photos and thinking to themselves that it's a standalone thing that doesn't need to be plugged into the mains?

Must be a generational thing as I expected it to be mains.  The older generation thought there was a pill for all ailments and younger generation expect a buttons to provide instant solutions instead of somethings you just have to do for yourself and often the best results require time and patience.

 

I'm very happy with things that work instantly but only if they work well and reliably.

 

For stop/start cars something like a charger with battery and alternator checker might be a good idea but it would need to be a good reliable one, so probably expensive, otherwise it could give you false hopes with inaccurate and inconsistent readings.

 

 

@EnterName I'm not having a go at you, I'm really not, the old farts with "classics" are usually old (and often own more than one "classic" and even a fleet of them) I'm just surprised that 50 miles a week isn't considered low mileage.

 

For short times we've had four cars but also 6 years with no cars pushbike everywhere, and not in Lycra without mudguards. so I'm a foot in both camps, my wife even had a diesel.  Just to answer your points.

 

VED, well the Fabia is £20 a year, my Midget is zero.  Petrol, yes is related to usage but also the vehicle and driver type.

 

There are other ways to get supplies from 2.5 miles away and I don't necessarily mean having it delivered.   Oil temperature wants to be 90 for the oil, car book has  80-110, 60 is not warm enough and certainly not at the end of the journey. Another reason I favour better quality oils that function better from cold and offer greater margins but they still need to be warmed fully to fully work and not get too contaminated.  And I don't think the tyres will get exercised enough but I've not researched that.

 

Your 15-20 miles mostly motorway will be better but don't just rely on that depending on what you use on the car during the journey, consider it more neutral to better than too good.

 

Walking along the road near us during lockdown when the traffic was sparse and a petrol car passes, let alone a diesel, for the first time I noticed what some others do, the smell and taste of the fumes - bear in mine I drive a car with an engine design from the 1950s (if not 40s I forget).

 

Hope some of this is helpful too you.

 

17 minutes ago, nta16 said:

@EnterName I'm not having a go at you, I'm really not, the old farts with "classics" are usually old (and often own more than one "classic" and even a fleet of them) I'm just surprised that 50 miles a week isn't considered low mileage.

 

For short times we've had four cars but also 6 years with no cars pushbike everywhere, and not in Lycra without mudguards. so I'm a foot in both camps, my wife even had a diesel.  Just to answer your points.

 

VED, well the Fabia is £20 a year, my Midget is zero.  Petrol, yes is related to usage but also the vehicle and driver type.

 

There are other ways to get supplies from 2.5 miles away and I don't necessarily mean having it delivered.   Oil temperature wants to be 90 for the oil, car book has  80-110, 60 is not warm enough and certainly not at the end of the journey. Another reason I favour better quality oils that function better from cold and offer greater margins but they still need to be warmed fully to fully work and not get too contaminated.  And I don't think the tyres will get exercised enough but I've not researched that.

 

Your 15-20 miles mostly motorway will be better but don't just rely on that depending on what you use on the car during the journey, consider it more neutral to better than too good.

 

Walking along the road near us during lockdown when the traffic was sparse and a petrol car passes, let alone a diesel, for the first time I noticed what some others do, the smell and taste of the fumes - bear in mine I drive a car with an engine design from the 1950s (if not 40s I forget).

 

Hope some of this is helpful too you.

 

No worries @nta16, I really hadn't assumed you were having a go, and even if you were, I'm not a teenage girl, I can handle a little criticism . 

It's all good. I was just interested in the thread and commented on your post.

 

 

Edited 11 August, 20214 yr by EnterName
Deleted most of post as it was off-topic

Just for info, from the (confusingly for me titled) 'Operating Instructions' (which I always think of for "the stereo") info on the engine oil operating temperature. -

 

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

Must be a generational thing as I expected it to be mains

 

Although my comment wasn't specifically addressed to the OP, it was mainly intended in his direction, since he said:

14 hours ago, Chiselwizard said:

to save b---g about with extension leads thought about something like this

 

Giving me the impression he thought it was standalone.

 

 

Charging batteries off the car isn't a great idea for cars with battery monitoring systems, as the car will be 'blind' to the added charge.

 

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

Just for info, from the (confusingly for me titled) 'Operating Instructions' (which I always think of for "the stereo") info on the engine oil operating temperature. -

 

Ah! That's a useful note which I (and I suspect a few other people) have missed.

Edit: My manual just has the comment about the temperature being lower than 50C or faulty, then "--" is displayed. Nothing about 80C to 100C.

So it's not surprising I missed it.

 

Thank you for that.

 

Edited 11 August, 20214 yr by EnterName
RTFM and found no reference to 80-110 degrees C in my manual.

@Wino Although I didn't say so I did know what you meant and TBH I didn't even think of stand alone until your post, this was part of my thinking about the idea now of everything having a (fast) quick fix.

 

I realise now that I shouldn't generalise so much on this subject and not put what I do that is possible but not strictly as advised generally.  Even more so it's a case of RtFM but this is so looked down on, especially from the 'airy (er,) armed Billy-big-*******s types and again it takes time and patience and to be fair a lot aren't the easiest or most interesting reading.  I find the Fabia Driver's Handbook particularly hard work.

 

45 minutes ago, EnterName said:

Ah! That's a useful note which I (and I suspect a few other people) have missed.

Do bear in mind these are manufacturer's figures given as a generalisation, there are many factors that can influence the figures you get in real world use and how much they really tell you and mean.

 

Now and again you want to get the oil temp higher on your journey.

 

In the thread you linked to the American chap I've seen a few of his vids on oil, he clearly (later?) shows his involvement with Mobil (1), you also have to bear in mind very few Americans drive "stick shifts" (4%? IIRC?) and they have "shops" that do oil and filter changes every 3,000-miles (I've no idea of oil and filter quality) so it's a different oil world over there.  I often wonder what they'd make of us once a year or 20,000 miles.  

 

There are many of what I call "oil beliefs" out there (including mine) as well as expert facts and opinions.  I should repeat I'm not an expert in oils (or anything else) or have any level of education or training in anything to do with cars.

 

Many in the "classic" world think their cars need old style oils despite the fact that the oils are different (and better) and even if it has the same name it's not the same make up and the name might only be a brand (Duckham's Q is by Moove, Comma a Braizian company).  Many "classic" owners over here seem to think that as the oil is in the ground for millions of years that that's how long at least the gearbox and axle oils can last.

 

Just about all appropriate car oils are good if used appropriately but I prefer better oils for better protection in my overpriced and overvalued old car so that I can drive it, when possible and I feel like it, in a spirited manner and for the greater margins of protection for when other thing go wrong and out of their safety margins and they do with the ****-poor modern made parts the tight-fisted "classic" owners insist are sold or the usual stuff like head gasket failures and radiators leaking.

 

The same extra margins are also useful for the modern runabouts as they work to some more severe conditions of short runs in heavy traffic and or high demand shortly after cold start, ect..

 

Edited 11 August, 20214 yr by nta16