5 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

Usual procedure with new hydraulic lifters is to dip them in clean oil before fitting them, no need to soak them overnight, they're fully compressed when new and cannot absorb any oil so it's a complete waste of time.

So, with soaking it in oil for some minutes then intall on the engine  and thats it?

5 minutes ago, Kharl said:

So, with soaking it in oil for some minutes then intall on the engine  and thats it?

 

No need, just dip 'em and fit 'em.

 

All this guff about soaking them is ritualistic nonsense, it doesn't do any harm but it's completely unnecessary.

2 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

 

No need, just dip 'em and fit 'em.

 

All this guff about soaking them is ritualistic nonsense, it doesn't do any harm but it's completely unnecessary.

Got it

Hello.

 

The previous problem was due the faulty coolant temp sensor.

 

The problem is back.

 

And just after refilling the radiator with tap water...  i read  somewhere i te internet that tap water can cause misreading of the coolant sensor, ia that true? I dont think so.

(I am using tap water for couple of daya because i am flushing the system, i had in plan to put coolant today.)

 

No it's not true and as I told you previously the sensor has a +/- 10% tolerance so it's not critical.

Alright.  I just want to be prepared to what the mechanic will say this time.

 I am in line waiting for the mechanic to check the timing of the pump again

Ok, just make sure he fits all the locking pins, if he can't fit them then it's not timed up properly.

41 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

Ok, just make sure he fits all the locking pins, if he can't fit them then it's not timed up properly.

Ok, i will keep that in mind, he says to come back tomorrow to do that with calm 

11 hours ago, Kharl said:

tap water can cause misreading of the coolant sensor, ia that true?

Technically yes, if you're trying to read the boiling and/or freezing points of the system. Practically, no, since we're talking 4C degrees in 100C degrees range. I'm not familiar with your local water chemistry though, and overuse of hard (contains lime salts) water can cause a cooling system to block up.

1 hour ago, KenONeill said:

Technically yes, if you're trying to read the boiling and/or freezing points of the system. Practically, no, since we're talking 4C degrees in 100C degrees range. I'm not familiar with your local water chemistry though, and overuse of hard (contains lime salts) water can cause a cooling system to block up.

Thanks for the information.

I a using destiled water, i plan to put coolant tomorrow, since the water still comes out with a little brownish color. 

Good morning guys! 

 

The black smoke is almost completely  gone, the pump IT IS in time, it i what the mechanic says and what it shows the computer.

The car start fine and promptly,  the engine sounds beautiful  But  but..

 

I notice the black smoke come back after the engine is well warm up, after several minutes or couple of hours of use or after 60kilometers...

But this is the other weird part, or could be the clue to find the cause, if i turn off the engine and turn it on again in some minutes and continue my trip the smoke is gone.

 

 

Yesterday i had a 4 hours commute in my city, the temperature outside was  35celcius, lot of atop lights, hills, lot of traffic, the car was black smoking after hour of use, then i did a stop of 10 minutes, and when back the smoke was gone.

 

That happened  twice.

Then at 3pm i traveled to another state, a two hour highway  speed, after 40 minutes i had black smoke if i accelerate hard, then i did a stop to eat something, and when back t the road, the black smoke was gone for another 40 minutes...

What was that?

Fuel temperature sensor, try unplugging it.