I picked my new Octavia last weekend and hard wired my new dash cam to a switched supply. Everything was fine til I noticed the cam kept restarting. I realised that it happened every time the car restarted after S/S. I’ve tried different fuses and it still happens.

Any ideas folks?

 

Thanks.

Must be loosing 12v when the car stops/starts back up, have you watched the 12v with a meter?

I always turn my s/s off, so never noticed it a problem in mine.

4 minutes ago, Leodis41 said:

hard wired my new dash cam to a switched supply

And you're surprised that the engine restarting makes the dashcam restart!? The best I can do is suggest that you find an accessory live, like for the radio (a permanent live like the 12v accessory socket will drain your battery).

I agree it’s seeing voltage drop during the restart, I wondered if it was a battery issue but if that was the case the S/S would disable. Could the canbus be interrupting the power to maximise battery voltage for the restart?

But it's not a permanent 12v, so when the engine stops, you'll be loosing 12v

I hear you but it keeps running with the engine off and switches off when the engine restarts.

Maybe there's a spike in the voltage and it shuts down

I don’t know, next experiment is to bypass the gps module and see what happens?

Do you have a decent multimeter, you could monitor the voltage and record the min/max whilst the S/D does it's thing.

2 hours ago, Leodis41 said:

I hear you but it keeps running with the engine off and switches off when the engine restarts.

Just like everything else on an accessory or ignition live does when you operate the starter motor.

 

When the engine is stopped by stop/start the engine is switched off but the ignition remains on. I mean, would you be surprised by a dashcam stopping and restarting when you operate the starter after stalling the engine?

Edited 17 September, 20214 yr by KenONeill

A switched live should be fine for a dashcam, the switched just means it'll turn on/off with the key - not with the engine. My dashcam is completely happy on a switched feed.

 

In this instance, it's probably a bad dashcam power supply that can't deal with the voltage drop during cranking

Well I have another hard wire kit I can try as well as the cig lighter lead.

There are some supply rails that are turned off specifically/only during cranking; have you maybe picked one of those to hardwire it into? Where have you taken the supply from?

I started on fuse 47, rear wiper and then 34 because it mentions stop/start. Any suggestions folks?

Edited 17 September, 20214 yr by Leodis41

It needs to be on the rear wiper....switched 12v only. Now depending on the unit, it should have a small capacitive battery that smooths out the stop/start events.

As above, the dashcam should have a battery or capacitor backup, and shouldn’t be effected by engine restarting.

 

Perhaps the dashcam has a configurable "switch off if supply voltage dips below N vollts" setting which just needs lowering a bit?

Edited 18 September, 20214 yr by Wino

The cam is a Viofo A119 v3 with an Ilway hard wire kit. The cam has a capacitor in it and I had a previous version in my old car which was fine, albeit from the cig socket before.

The hardwire kit apparently has low voltage cut off at 11.6v so I’ll get the battery tested as it is 3 years old and the car has only done 19000 miles in that time so may need a good run to get some charge in it.

 

Thanks for reply guys.

Your battery could easily go below 11.6v cranking, but surely that's what the capacitor is there for in the cam.

 

Yes the capacitor is there for that but the hardwire kit is cutting power. Just tested, 12.2v with nothing on dropping to 11.1v cranking. This is below the safety cut off for the hardwire kit so it is cutting power to the camera and the camera is switching off thinking the ignition is off.

So I need to go for a good run to charge the battery fully, or worst case a new battery. Will keep turning off the stop start to give the battery a chance.

 

Thanks for all the advise folks, looks like we have got to the route of the problem.

Going for a “good run” is not always guaranteed to charge the battery on a micro hybrid system that tends to only charge the battery on the overrun to save fuel. 
You might be better investing in a charger suitable for your battery type agm/ efb if your not using the car regularly.

On 18/09/2021 at 12:37, Leodis41 said:

Yes the capacitor is there for that but the hardwire kit is cutting power. Just tested, 12.2v with nothing on dropping to 11.1v cranking. This is below the safety cut off for the hardwire kit so it is cutting power to the camera and the camera is switching off thinking the ignition is off.

So I need to go for a good run to charge the battery fully, or worst case a new battery. Will keep turning off the stop start to give the battery a chance.

 

Thanks for all the advise folks, looks like we have got to the route of the problem.

I had the exact same problem with my 5-6 years old, factory AGM battery. Changed to a new AGM battery and problem is now gone. 

 

Initially I got a smart battery charger to trickle charge, it helped slightly in the fact it would stop the problem when driving after the trickle charge session. But if I left the car for a few days (hardwared dashcam auto powers off, so no 12v battery drain), I'd still hear the dashcam turn off jingle when S/S system restarts the engine. 

 

 

As said, unless your "good run" is necessary as form of transport. It may not work and turn out to be a waste of fuel + totally unnecessary damaging to environment. Same for turning off S/S. Best to have a trickle charger for the overtaxed 12v batteries in today's ICE cars. 

 

Despite having a new battery, I still stick it on the smart charger every few weeks to ensure it's always fully topped up. Stupid powertrain require tiresome solutions. 

I’d love to put the battery on charge but don’t have a smart charger and live in a terrace house so can’t plug a charger in.

I’ve looked into a new battery but this where it gets a bit strange, the current battery is 420a CCA while all the online selectors are quoting for a 600a CCA?

Can anybody confirm what battery they have fitted in a 1.5tsi dsg?

 

Cheers