4 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

That's temperature sensor 100%

 

but I changed the temperature sensor, and now it shows the temperature on the display and everything.

 

Like this one

 

 

or is it the coolant sensor? which is on the radiator

3 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

 

I have never changed this part, but I have already changed the tube in front, which at the time was all decayed

8 minutes ago, Joob said:

 

but I changed the temperature sensor, and now it shows the temperature on the display and everything.

 

Like this one

 

 

or is it the coolant sensor? which is on the radiator

 

is that the top one I changed on Friday/Thursday ..

 

or is that one ?

 

27 minutes ago, Joob said:

 

but I changed the temperature sensor, and now it shows the temperature on the display and everything

Interesting 

13 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Interesting 

 

yap true.. 

because before, there was also the problem of the temperature on the display, which only marked up to the second dash white, it didn't go beyond that, and with the change of that sensor it was solved.

but it didn't solve the problem of not turn on in the morning.

1 minute ago, Joob said:

 

yap true.. 

because before, there was also the problem of the temperature on the display, which only marked up to the second dash white, it didn't go beyond that, and with the change of that sensor it was solved.

but it didn't solve the problem of not turn on in the morning.

Does it start without map sensor? 

4 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Does it start without map sensor? 

 

Yes, during the day if it turns on with or without the map sensor, it turns on.

In the morning I didn't test turning on without the sensor, I could have done it, but I didn't remember.

Please attempt it 

29 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Please attempt it 

 

Now only tomorrow morning... but supposedly it should turn on without the sensor attached or not?
If turn engine, does that mean it's ok?
If don't turn engine, does it mean it's bad?

 

On 19/11/2021 at 11:18, Joob said:

I changed that sensor, and still doesn't call in the morning (tested today)

 

I then took it and went to measure the admission sensor

-------------

 

I took a measurement, with the tip on the first pin, counting from the left side to the right.

In this case the tip of the multimeter is on the first pin from above and with the other end I was measuring the remaining 3 pins.

 

And gave me these results (I don't know if the measurement is done that way.)

-----

Pin       Pin

1     >     2     =   395 ohm's

1     >     3     =   795 ohm's

1     >     4     =   365 ohm's

 

It's normal ?

 

Note: I also noticed that when I get engine on, the idle is a little low / unstable (like ~700rpm), I accelerate to 2,000 rpm's / 2,500 rpm's (for example), accelerate again, and the idle drops and is unstable for a few seconds and then comes back to be stable, like at ~850 rpm's (more or less)

 

I think it might have something to do with this sensor, I say.

 

 

 

 

 

Are these measurements ok? about this sensor map

 

21 minutes ago, Joob said:

Now only tomorrow morning... but supposedly it should turn on without the sensor attached or not?
If turn engine, does that mean it's ok?
If don't turn engine, does it mean it's bad

If it turns on then you know the issue if it doesn't we need to look elsewhere. 

Joob, in that video the electric and starter side sound healthy so check basics like fuel delivery and spark - BUT - in that video I notice a hose not connected what else has been left off or missed - do not start rebuilding the car for a "schoolboy error" done yesterday/today.  We have all done something at some times, I thought my car did not sound right after starting and it was because I had not replaced a spark plug HT lead I removed to get easier access to something else.

 

I once took the car on a test run after doing some front brake work to have a strange noise a mile later and discovered I had left the wheel nuts only finger tight and they were loose.

 

You may know the saying - "after checking everything else check the bleedin' obvious".

 

Edited 22 November, 20214 yr by nta16

2 minutes ago, nta16 said:

I took the car on a test run after doing some front brake work to have a strange noise a mile later and discovered I had left the wheelnuts only finger tight and they were loose.

That's a death wish 

18 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

That's a death wish 

A very stupid mistake.

 

Luckily they weren't that loose and were nuts on wheel studs (much better design), It was a matter of not checking, or not checking again, what you have already checked (or thought you had) - to check you actually did check it previously.

 

Also a matter of getting the priorities wrong, wanting to check the fix/repair too quickly over rechecking and rechecking.  It was a very stupid mistake but would be even more stupid if it wasn't learnt from and not done again.  I now have ways of making some sort of mark or gesture to confirm I have checked and to recheck the wheel nuts torque again after 30-50miles.  With the Fabia I leave the wheel bolt (stupid design to have bolts) plastic covers off and in an annoying place in the car as a reminder to check the torque and replace the covers then.

 

Edited 22 November, 20214 yr by nta16

25 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

If it turns on then you know the issue if it doesn't we need to look elsewhere. 

 

The normal thing is not being able to turn on right? with the sensor disconnected

If it turns on is it because it could be the sensor with problems?

 

In this video I did that, and it turned on fine without the sensor connected, but I had it turned on before.

----

Check Video - I turned it on with the map sensor disconnected, and then connected it.

 

24 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Joob, in that video the electric and starter side sound healthy so check basics like fuel delivery and spark - BUT - in that video I notice a hose not connected what else has been left off or missed - do not start rebuilding the car for a "schoolboy error" done yesterday/today.  We have all done something at some times, I thought my car did not sound right after starting and it was because I had not replaced a spark plug HT lead I removed to get easier access to something else.

 

I once took the car on a test run after doing some front brake work to have a strange noise a mile later and discovered I had left the wheel nuts only finger tight and they were loose.

 

You may know the saying - "after checking everything else check the bleedin' obvious".

 

 

Yes, in the video it's with the hose open, but then I put it in the place, and it wouldn't be because of that it turned on or not, because this is just a gas exit from the oil.

1 minute ago, Joob said:

 

Yes, in the video it's with the hose open, but then I put it in the place, and it wouldn't be because of that it turned on or not, because this is just a gas exit from the oil.

Yes but is that the only pipe, hose, electric connector, whatever else not reconnected or not connected that should be - it you left that disconnected on purpose fair enough although I am not sure why but if that hose or other item is not connected it is not doing its job and could it also possibly drawing air in that upsets the system or other systems and/or the sensors and/or the computer.

 

In other words - is everything connected as it should be so that the items can work together as intended.

 

If the car starts and runs as it should in the day except for in the mornings then it is either something that is not adjusting correctly for the morning starts or a faulty item that is affected by the weather and/or environment of the morning.  Have you tried spraying around with WD-40 Multi-Use as its one real purpose of dispersing water (damp).

 

Quote

Have you tried spraying around with WD-40 Multi-Use as its one real purpose of dispersing water (damp).

 

What ?

WD-40 (Water Dispersant) Multi-Use has on one good use, as a water dispersant so if you have water, condensation (damp) on parts on the engine spraying will disperses the water.  If they are cracks, breaks, splits in seals, insulation or other, or just water sitting around water might creep in and WD-40 might push it out or away.  Electrics particularly leak easily with the help of water.

  

Edited 22 November, 20214 yr by nta16
spelling

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

WD-40 (Water Dispersant) Multi-Use has on good use, as a water dispersant so if you have water, condensation (damp) on parts on the engine spraaying will disperses the water.  If they are cracks, breaks, splits in seals, insulation or other, or just water sitting around water might creep in and WD-40 might push it out or away.  Electrics particularly leak easily with the help of water.

  

 

Are you telling me to put in the map sensor hole? I have better than WD-40, I can put a Penetrating ..

 

For example, today it's colder, and the car was stopped from 10:00h in the morning until 18:00h, and when I went to turn on, GG, just vrrumm vrrrumm vrrummm .. nothing.. Dammmm

 

8 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

 

How can i test this fuel pressure regulator?

1 hour ago, Joob said:

Are you telling me to put in the map sensor hole? I have better than WD-40, I can put a Penetrating ..

 

NO.  I am saying to use the WD-40 for its one good use to disperse water, that is move water (damp, condensation) off and away from items so that full power of electric gets to where it it supposed to go and not lost through water contact.  I do not like WD-40 Multi-Use and would always use GT85 instead but if you have WD-40 Multi-Use to hand then dispersing water is what it is good at.

 

https://gt85.co.uk/gt85-original/ 

 

 

1 hour ago, Joob said:

For example, today it's colder, and the car was stopped from 10:00h in the morning until 18:00h, and when I went to turn on, GG, just vrrumm vrrrumm vrrummm .. nothing.. Dammmm

Confirms you have a cold starting problem.

 

No disrespect to you as your English is good and I struggle with English as my only language but vrrumm, vrrrumm, vrrummm is taken in English as the sound of an engine running not a starter motor turn.

 

59 minutes ago, nta16 said:

NO.  I am saying to use the WD-40 for its one good use to disperse water, that is move water (damp, condensation) off and away from items so that full power of electric gets to where it it supposed to go and not lost through water contact.  I do not like WD-40 Multi-Use and would always use GT85 instead but if you have WD-40 Multi-Use to hand then dispersing water is what it is good at.

 

https://gt85.co.uk/gt85-original/ 

 

 

Confirms you have a cold starting problem.

 

No disrespect to you as your English is good and I struggle with English as my only language but vrrumm, vrrrumm, vrrummm is taken in English as the sound of an engine running not a starter motor turn.

 

 

Alright good one.

Yap the "vvrruumm vvrrummm vruuumm" is more like a sound of an engine.. "vvrrummm pau pau " kakakaka 

 

So.. a little while ago I went to the car to check the fuel pressure regulator and did this little test, I don't know whether it's really like that or not.

 

Check the FIRST Video of the fuel pressure regulator

 

 

Well if you don't rev it up what can we understand 

 

Check the SECOND Video of the fuel pressure regulator

 

 

 

Just now, Thefeliciahacker said:

Well if you don't rev it up what can we understand 

 

Hmm alright.. I'll do that

On 19/11/2021 at 11:18, Joob said:

I changed that sensor, and still doesn't call in the morning (tested today)

 

I then took it and went to measure the admission sensor

-------------

 

I took a measurement, with the tip on the first pin, counting from the left side to the right.

In this case the tip of the multimeter is on the first pin from above and with the other end I was measuring the remaining 3 pins.

 

And gave me these results (I don't know if the measurement is done that way.)

-----

Pin       Pin

1     >     2     =   395 ohm's

1     >     3     =   795 ohm's

1     >     4     =   365 ohm's

 

It's normal ?

 

Note: I also noticed that when I get engine on, the idle is a little low / unstable (like ~700rpm), I accelerate to 2,000 rpm's / 2,500 rpm's (for example), accelerate again, and the idle drops and is unstable for a few seconds and then comes back to be stable, like at ~850 rpm's (more or less)

 

I think it might have something to do with this sensor, I say.

 

 

 

 

 

SENSOR MAP

-----

 

I noticed a situation... the engine running (when I arrived), I disconnected the map sensor plug... and the engine started to choke and turned off... ok normal (I think)... then I started the engine with the map sensor connector off, and it turned on well, I connected the plug to the sensor, with the engine running, I accelerated it a few times and then I turned the plug off again, and nothing happened to the engine, it made no difference.