11 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Well if you don't rev it up what can we understand 

 

when I accelerating, what should happen, if the pressure regulator is ok?

Propably the ecu got tripped before it could isolate the sensor. And switch to open loop operation but it's better to turn the car off when messing with sensors 

Edited 22 November, 20214 yr by Thefeliciahacker

6 minutes ago, Joob said:

when I accelerating, what should happen, if the pressure regulator is ok?

Car will run rich and lean off throttle  edit exactly the opposite rich under vaccum

Edited 22 November, 20214 yr by Thefeliciahacker

ok I'll make a video and check it out

Alright..

Tell me what u think

 

Check the Video with this Link

 

I do not follow any of this momentary pulling of hoses as the ECU would compensate, you would need someone to be at the exhaust tail pipe to see if they could smell if it goes rich or have an analyser up the tail pipe taking readings.

 

If you have a good scan tool you could see if any of this triggers error codes though these actions might not go into the error codes ranges and I do not know what live data you can get on a car of this age.

 

Edited 23 November, 20214 yr by nta16
spelling

8 hours ago, Joob said:

Tell me what u think

you could hear the ecu compensating, but car runs perfectly, now just clear all the codes and you will be golden.

As for the morning problem try to start it without the regulator connected if it does start you know the car is not richening up enough if it makes it worse you know its spraying too much.

Alright

Okay, this morning starting I trying to turn it on without the pressure regulator and without success, then I tested it without the map sensor plug, I tried to turn on the machine, and nothing... it didn't turn on.

Had to put second gear down the ramp and bammm, it turn on, just like that.

 

Possible to be the starter brushes getting stuck/glued in the cold...?

2 hours ago, Joob said:

Alright

Okay, this morning starting I trying to turn it on without the pressure regulator and without success, then I tested it without the map sensor plug, I tried to turn on the machine, and nothing... it didn't turn on.

Had to put second gear down the ramp and bammm, it turn on, just like that.

Bust the vcds out and take a look at live data, look what the temperature sensor is reporting, I'm simply out of ideas

2 hours ago, Joob said:

Possible to be the starter brushes getting stuck/glued in the cold...?

Not if the starter is turning.  ETA: perhaps the starter is weak and struggles in the cold but  I can not remember hearing that on the previous cold start video. 

 

As suggested clear all the error codes and check that they have cleared before trying to start the engine.

 

If you can do another video of a cold start or attempted cold start and if you can get live data on your scan tool that might help.

 

I keep wondering if it is just something silly and so obvious that it has been missed, other than the car being cold and the different environment conditions in the morning what else is different?  Is something contracting or collapsing with the cold causing a restriction, have you checked the inside of all pipes and hoses for condition. checked fuel pipe from tank to engine.

 

Perhaps if the car does not cold morning start try removing the petrol filler cap and try again.

 

Changed my mind on those as the car bumps starts.

Edited 23 November, 20214 yr by nta16
ETA:

I think I found the problem ..

This afternoon went to start the car again and nothing. I took it, tested the starter motor, tried to start the car using the starter motor the starter sometimes didn't rotate, it I did a few more times and the starter rotated, I did other times and it didn't.. then I tested starting the car with the key, and turned on. It's almost certainly from the starter motor, that the brushes or the starter itself is kind of frozen and doesn't let enough current through.

 

I did it with a 15mm wrench, for example, I made a connection of the two nuts with the wrench.

 

Tomorrow I'll buy a new one.. and I tell u what's happened.

Well done.

 

The starter motor might just need cleaning and/or a loose connection.

 

What grade/weight of engine oil is in the engine (10w40)?

 

Edited 24 November, 20214 yr by nta16

I remember that in times I also cleaned it and the brushes etc... but the starter motor is already a long time (130k km) it's not that much, but it was badly treated... it's not worth it to walk with it all the time this thought will turn on when I leave etc..

 

Tomorrow I'll see if I buy and test the machine and see the difference.

 

Yes, I use the 10w40 .. I changed it to 1/2 month thing with the filter and the gasoline filter too

Still didn't buy the new one ...

 

Check the video when I tested the Starter Motor.

I opened it and cleaned the brushes and the spool...

I think this is a bad starter motor now. It's already given what it had to give. Right ?

Check the test in the morning..

 

 

I think he doesn't have the power, because he should turn it this way, and I had the switch turned in position 1 while doing the test.

 

 

This sensor that I show in the photo, which is located at the bottom, at the foot of the collector, is the sensor of what ?

Here

--------

 

 

 

It's the sensor in the back, not the crank.

To me it sounds like it's turning OK but perhaps it is not engaging or with enough power.  Or perhaps the flywheel is worn or damaged at that point, easy to check that by turning the engine to a different point and trying the starter again.

 

You could take the starter off to check it.

 

If you've got an extra cable to the starter try taking it off, check that the starter is securely bolted and there is nothing preventing it fully earthing to the engine, if it has one check that the engine earth strap is in good condition, clean and securely and cleanly fitted both ends and/or any other earth cable/straps /wires.

 

I am unsure about which sensor(s) you mean and do not know enough anyway so will not comment on those.

 

Starter motor sounds fine, but if you have issues with starting on key, it could be bad ignition switch - it directly engages starter's solenoid, which causes contact wear over time.

The sensor in photo is knock sensor - it's there to detect "sound" of detonation, so ECU can change timing if detonation occurs.

33 minutes ago, nta16 said:

To me it sounds like it's turning OK but perhaps it is not engaging or with enough power.  Or perhaps the flywheel is worn or damaged at that point, easy to check that by turning the engine to a different point and trying the starter again.

 

You could take the starter off to check it.

 

If you've got an extra cable to the starter try taking it off, check that the starter is securely bolted and there is nothing preventing it fully earthing to the engine, if it has one check that the engine earth strap is in good condition, clean and securely and cleanly fitted both ends and/or any other earth cable/straps /wires.

 

I am unsure about which sensor(s) you mean and do not know enough anyway so will not comment on those.

 

 

Hmm.. I could have tested the starter to see if the trigger actually spits out.

 

10 minutes ago, Papez said:

Starter motor sounds fine, but if you have issues with starting on key, it could be bad ignition switch - it directly engages starter's solenoid, which causes contact wear over time.

The sensor in photo is knock sensor - it's there to detect "sound" of detonation, so ECU can change timing if detonation occurs.

 

If it was an ignition issue, he'd works it the way I did. It would be a sign that the ignition was bad.

Oh ty.

@Joob - It sounds like it's cranking over fine but not even trying to fire, so fundamentals:-

 

1. Do you have a spark at all 4 plugs?
2. Do you have fuel at each injector?

Remove air cleaner and watch the throttle valve when you crank it it should open by itself. 

Then spray some brake cleaner and see if it starts 

12 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Then spray some brake cleaner and see if it starts

I'd not use brake cleaner, different sorts can be about and as there's no issue in starting other than in the morning I'm not sure what that would prove.

 

The ignition switch is possible but why only in the mornings, always worth checking all electrical connections are clean, secure and protected.  We got distracted from checking from battery onwards as far as the starting system goes, only got as far as the battery, then of course it's fuel side and electronics, and dread computer.

 

35 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

spray some brake cleaner and see if it starts

I specifically don't want to try Easy Start (other brands are available) until we know we've got sparks and fuel at all cylinders.

I keep wondering if this will turn out to be something very simple perhaps even basic and/or obvious once found.  Car don't start has it got or is getting electric and fuel - often battery or run out of fuel for breakdowns, but not here.  You'd think as it's only mornings it'd be fuel related or weak electrics but there are always the possibilities of so many variables and combinations and permutations of minor issues or variances that can come together at possibly certain circumstances.

 

Yes, I think there is enough fuel in the injectors... to test just by removing them and turning the ignition. But with the engine running, I already removed them one by one and they were all ok, because when I removed them, you could see the difference in the cylinder.

 

I can't believe the ignition, because to make the car start directly by the starter as I did, it should start, and that didn't happen. Oh yes, if the car had started,, it could already be a problem with the ignition. I say.

 

I changed the spark plugs 8 months ago, I think .. could it be because they have some oil and it is difficult to make sparks only when the car is cold?

 

It's just that when it's cold, and he doesn't turn it on, all you have to do is push it or let the car go down the ramp, I put in 2nd gear and with it falling straight, I lift the clutch a little and it starts working.

35 minutes ago, Joob said:

I changed the spark plugs 8 months ago, I think .. could it be because they have some oil and it is difficult to make sparks only when the car is cold?

NOW you tell us about the oil fouling!!  That will definitely put the sparks out.

20 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

NOW you tell us about the oil fouling!!  That will definitely put the sparks out.

 

I'm just guessing.

If this can influence turning on when it's cold? (only cold)