38 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Don't turn the ignition on while the airbag is disconnected.

Ah, well unfortunately I did trying one last time to extract the cylinder. What will happen?

Perseverance and brute force got you this far after previous failure, if you are sure you are depressing the catch with a piece of wire the lock assembly should pull out.

 

Possibly a paper clip isn't up to the task, try a thin allen key, screwdriver, drill bit, sewing needle etc.  It's tricky trying to think of everyday household items to use if you don't have the tools.

 

Once removed, you may not need to disassemble, just a good wash out might be all that's required to flush out any debris, you are best placed to assess things at that point.

Edited 14 December, 20214 yr by MicMac

1 hour ago, MicMac said:

Perseverance and brute force got you this far after previous failure, if you are sure you are depressing the catch with a piece of wire the lock assembly should pull out.

 

Possibly a paper clip isn't up to the task, try a thin allen key, screwdriver, drill bit, sewing needle etc.  It's tricky trying to think of everyday household items to use if you don't have the tools.

 

Once removed, you may not need to disassemble, just a good wash out might be all that's required to flush out any debris, you are best placed to assess things at that point.

I am trying a thin Allen key. I'll attack it again tomorrow with a few other items. Perhaps I haven't got the angle right. It's obviously jammed up - well, that's a definite isn't it! Cheers.

2 hours ago, beth93 said:

Ah, well unfortunately I did trying one last time to extract the cylinder. What will happen?

MIL light on the dashboard and fault code that cannot be deleted with a basic code reader, VCDS or similar used, not the end of the world.

How far should a pin, Allen key or whatever need to be inserted into the hole to release the ignition cylinder?

2 minutes ago, beth93 said:

How far should a pin, Allen key or whatever need to be inserted into the hole to release the ignition cylinder?

Watch the video.

7 hours ago, MicMac said:

Watch the video.

I have, several times, I guess about an inch. Some pins I've tried seemed to go further, but no matter what I have tried, the lock won't come. Losing the will to live now.

You probably felt similarly before you whacked the lock free.

 

All I can suggest is perseverance and an energy drink.

This is what I used for mine, it's a giant paper clip

Still haven't managed it. Tried several alternatives, I think the lever that is supposed to move has become burred, that or the slot it engages in. I'll try another couple of times but hands are now red raw!

I guess I'll need to remove the barrel, but this flat black box is underneath and not sure how to remove that. I have taken out the tiny little Allen screw at the top centre, but it's still held. The ones I saw in the videos were different to this, and I don't want to wreck it. Any advice? Many thanks.

This may help, as there is a black clip you need to push in to remove the black box.   I did it a few years ago but I think I used a small Allen key to release tab in black box.

At 

Cheers for that, I did get it off in the end, but somewhat more piecemeal than that!

It's a good video, the only one I've seen so far that is exactly the same as mine. Well, other than the anti tamper screws are broken off, but I shall have to have a go at them, as I have now been trying for four days to release the ignition cylinder without luck. Something is jammed inside. Oh well.

I'll keep you posted, thanks.

1 hour ago, beth93 said:

Well, other than the anti tamper screws are broken off

That's the whole point of them. The heads break of, so they can't be readily undone.

 

Oh and well done for sticking with a job like this at all. 🫂

27 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

That's the whole point of them. The heads break of, so they can't be readily undone.

 

Oh and well done for sticking with a job like this at all. 🫂

Erm, yes I know the point of the anti-tamper screws, the guy in the video was lucky that the heads on his weren't broken off!

As for sticking with it, I don't really have any choice.

Other than a can of petrol and a box of matches.............

the anti taper screws are not that hard to remove as you can use a flat head screw driver and hammer to remove them. 

 

Just slowly tap the edge of the bolt head and they will eventually loosen, although you may need to drill some holes in the plastic surround to get a good position for your screw driver to get good access to the bolts

these are the holes I drilled to get access to the bolts and then tapped them loose with a screw driver and hammer

these are the holes I drilled to get access to the bolts and then tapped them loose with a screw driver and hammer

Thanks, I'm just about to go and attack it again. I'm hoping one last ditch attempt at removing the cylinder will work, if not I'll be undoing those bolts. Cheers.

Believe it or not, after trying the shaft from a pop rivet, (strong, smooth and exactly the right thickness), with a lucky shake the cylinder finally came out. Only took nearly a week!

Trying it our on the bench after removing it, it was clear that the catch was not moving very far, and whatever I was trying in the hole wasn't hitting the right spot. But never mind, it's out.

Right, so now it's a question of what is actually wrong, as you can see from the key and cylinder video, they are not jamming at all. Looks like the cylinder is jamming at the steering lock point I think, unless it's the ignition switch at the far end. I might try and remove that next before taking out the barrel.

Stop Press : ignore comment about video as the file size is too large.

34 minutes ago, beth93 said:

ignore comment about video as the file size is too large.

Put the video someplace like YouTube, and link to it from here.

Ok, here's testing the steering lock and ignition switch with a screwdriver, note, it is rather notchy. 

 

 

And here's trying the cylinder and key. Very loose and sloppy but doesn't stick at all.

https://youtu.be/asHXShazaGU

 

 

 

Edited 20 December, 20214 yr by beth93

I went to remove the ignition from the end, and after popping off the cover then removing the switch internals, unfortunately they came out in bits. The main body, the white bit, had to be prised out. So that's one piece I definitely have to purchase! I'm thinking it's probably best to replace everything. We only have one chipped key, and the unlock function doesn't work, so we have to unlock the boot to stop the alarm from going off. And the steering lock does feel rather notch. Is there any one single supplier who any of you could recommend as best to get these bits without spending a King's ransom? 

Thanks again for the continuing help and encouragement.

Using Autodoc search facility I have found plenty of suppliers for the ignition switch on it's own. Prices vary from under a tenner, to nearly £30.

But I have also found a supplier of a FEBI Bilstein ignition switch combined with the whole lock and two new anti-tamper bolts. It's £93.86 plus post. I would have thought buying new would be best option for those parts.

3 hours ago, beth93 said:

FEBI Bilstein ignition switch combined with the whole lock and two new anti-tamper bolts. It's £93.86 plus post.

Ideal, even at that price (it's 40 years since I last needed one).

2 hours ago, KenONeill said:

Ideal, even at that price (it's 40 years since I last needed one).

Sadly turned out to be not in stock, and I have come to realise that many of the large online parts suppliers, though having a  .uk web address, are actually shipping from Europe.

Can anyone point me at a genuine UK based supplier who might just have stock in this country?

Cheers.