After 2 and a half years of pretty much no hassle driving with the Superb. It’s time for the gremlins to come out and play.

 

July 21: Someone rear ends me while it’s parked outside the house then drives off without leaving details. Since then minor vibration from flywheel. 
Sept 21: Random TCS, ECS, Hill Start, Radar warning, Stop/Start fault, Parking sensors fault. Turn car off then on, then off again. Wait 5 mins. Set of driving and within 400yds all cleared. Found out battery was on the way out.
Nov 21: Diagnosed as vibrating flywheel by Grimsby Skoda while in for DSG service. Told wait till it gets worse or not to bother at all because it’s not worth it at 156k.

 

Jan 22: Rear heating stays cold. No adjustments on system. Faulty Flap motor, due in a couple of days.

Jan 22: Car starts calling random people without phone being touched or screen. 4 times family, 3 times work. (I do have some emergency A&E Red phone numbers in the phone, so I’m hoping it won’t start ringing them😱). 
Jan 22: Radio randomly decides to change station, not just to the next one but 7 along on the DAB menu.

Tonight EML and 650 miles till non start. 5 times that’s flashed up on a 60 mile round journey. The reader goes between 3000 till empty when the light is off, then back to 650. I’ve put in a gallon of ad-blue tonight. Warning comes on, few miles later goes off then 15 miles later back on.

 

The car is going on Launch in the morning to see what errors I’m getting. I’m hoping it doesn’t end up as a huge bill. At the minute it’s worth more on trade in than what I owe as I have about 18mths left, but that makes it someone’s else’s problem.

 

Apart from the mechanical faults, has anyone else had similar happen to them?

 

I’ve found the ad-blue fault this morning.

Codes:

P20E800 - Reductant pressure too low.

P204F00 - Reductant system performance bank 1.

 

Opened the bonnet to test the battery (just in case). Found above the Cat white foam like substance. Looks to be ad blue solidified. Cleared it off. The top of the ad-blue injector (plastic part) can move a couple of degrees. The feed pipe feels quite loose with a strange clip. I gather this isn’t normal. 
Question is: which side would be the fault. The pipe or the injector? The spread of the ad-blue looks to have come from the end of the pipe. So a possible seal breach. Does the system need resetting after the connection is breached. I can get the parts and should be able to fit myself, unless it needs dealer reset.

 

Any ideas?

For the price of the pipe, i would be changing it also, do a pipe and injector - pipe was around £40

 

That will be the cause of your adblue fault.

 

Others have complained of the random number thing before and im not sure the solution

I’ve been quoted £261.32 plus vat for the injector and £137.34 plus vat for the pipe. From TPS. 
 

I’ve been advised to remove the tank and clean out with the pump and injector then replace the pipe. 

Did you get anywhere with this? Same issue and lots of crystallised white deposits.

 

I’ve changed the Ab-blue injector. Found no mention anywhere on how to change the pipe unless through Skoda. The injector didn’t make much difference as it didn’t stop the venting from the Ad-blue feed pipe. Got around 40 miles before loss of pressure in the Ad-blue system.

 

So I cheated. Pushed the pipe onto the injector as far as it would still. Secured the pipe with just enough pressure to reduce or stop movement from vibration. Sealed the single use clip (which is only supplied with the pipe) with silicone sealant let it cure then did a 150mile run. It’s vented a bit while it sealed. So there has been some more residue over the area, but I’ve done around 1500 mile since and so far it’s worked. 
 

when I get chance I’m going to get it on the ramps at work and see how much it’s crystallised over the underneath. Clean it off then we’ll see how it performs at MOT time in May.

 

It’s cost about £470 for the parts at trade price. I’d hate to think how much it’ll cost at specialist or stealer. 

Thanks for that!

I wouldn’t advise anyone else to do the same repair. Mines got now over 160k on it. If it survives to 200k I’d be impressed. Although I do have 1.6Tdi Toledo’s with over 200k on them. No major work required till the blocks went on a couple around 190k.

It’ll do until it can fathom how to trace the feed pipe and the wiring connectors down the chassis rail.

8 hours ago, Swede90 said:

I’ve changed the Ab-blue injector. Found no mention anywhere on how to change the pipe unless through Skoda. The injector didn’t make much difference as it didn’t stop the venting from the Ad-blue feed pipe. Got around 40 miles before loss of pressure in the Ad-blue system.

 

So I cheated. Pushed the pipe onto the injector as far as it would still. Secured the pipe with just enough pressure to reduce or stop movement from vibration. Sealed the single use clip (which is only supplied with the pipe) with silicone sealant let it cure then did a 150mile run. It’s vented a bit while it sealed. So there has been some more residue over the area, but I’ve done around 1500 mile since and so far it’s worked. 
 

when I get chance I’m going to get it on the ramps at work and see how much it’s crystallised over the underneath. Clean it off then we’ll see how it performs at MOT time in May.

 

It’s cost about £470 for the parts at trade price. I’d hate to think how much it’ll cost at specialist or stealer. 

maybe you did'nt cheat enough  😀

adblie systems are generally unreliable, even worse than the other emissions stuff like egr and dpf

theres pumps to go wrong, nox sensors that might as well be made out of chocolate and cost an arm & a leg to replace

it's no wonder that some people delete the lot and take the operchancity  😄   to remap at the same time for around £200

your euro 6 engine  becomes a euro 5 engine and no more problems with adblue  😁