Hi Folks,

Just had number 1 injector replaced on my 1.6 greenline 2012,  open circuit. Got it back and the performance is even worse than it usually is. It shudders and shakes worse than it used to below 1500rpm, and won't pull up a fairly slight hill at 50mph in top, just won't accelerate, you have to change down to 4th. Even at 70mph, although smoother, it doesn't pull very well. I drove about 140 miles today, 90% motorway at 70mph on the cruise control, averaged 38.8mpg, which isn't that different to what I normally get, slightly worse, and believe me, I don't drive hard at all, my Yeti is the thirstiest car I've had for many years, if I average over 40mpg trying hard I'm doing well.

I took it back to the garage, they checked it out while I was watching, EGR and DPF fine, all check out ok, injectors coded and matched, spray patterns within parameters, no fault codes coming up, any ideas?.

Got to say, lovely car, but really a pain, at just under 80k miles it's never really gone properly, just one thing after another.

Alan

Any recommendations for a Skoda independent in Central Scotland to have a look at it?, and do what I have no idea?, if it all checks out ok on the computer.

Has it ever had a new Cam Belt fitted???

When was the Fuel Filter last changed??

33 minutes ago, Bison said:

Any recommendations for a Skoda independent in Central Scotland to have a look at it?, and do what I have no idea?, if it all checks out ok on the computer.

 

You don't say if you're in the West, the East or the middle.  If it works for you, I'd suggest Star Performance in Dysart, Fife without hesitation.  I've been using them to repair and service various VAG cars over the past 20 years. 

 

If it's had the 'emissions fix', I'd be inclined to get that rolled back at the same time and perhaps also get them to remap it.

 

https://www.starperformance.co.uk

Edited 11 April, 20224 yr by Schtum

Hi,

I'm just outside Livingston.

Yes, cam belt fitted about 5k miles ago, fully serviced so fuel filter replaced.

Thing is it was not perfect before, but worse now.

I'm the second owner, a friend was the first, he reckons it's been like this from new, but not as bad. He specifically asked for the fix not to be done, but when I look it up with the VIN on the Skoda site it said my car was not affected, which according to people on this site means it has been done?.

Alan.

Hi

 

If you had an open circuit injector, the car would have been running on 3 cylinders and you would expect the performance to be terrible.  Replacing with a working injector should give a huge improvement.

 

Instead, things seem to be the other way round, which is hard to understand.

 

I wonder if there is a problem with the injector connections and wiring harness, or the supply/earths to the ECU ?  Injectors take rather large pulses of current, and will expose any weakness in this area.

 

Also worth double checking that the cam belt isn't one tooth out - I once had that after a garage replaced the belt on a petrol Polo.  We drove it like that for 5 years not realising why the performance was like a limp rag, until I got the job done properly.

Hi,

Thanks for the replies.

The car starts and idles perfectly, no black smoke, definitely running on 4. although a bit sluggish on rev pickup. I would have expected perhaps black smoke if the pump timing was out?, or of course if it were not supplying enough fuel at any given revs, the equivalent of running weak, this could cause my problems?. As it has been like this, or similar, from new according to the first owner, is it possible the pump timing has always been out?. When you read this and other forums, the 1.6 greenline has huge variations in fuel consumption, and I guess to meet the low emissions the fuel monitoring must be exact?. The first owner said he was always disappointed in the fuel consumption and performance.

I'd be thinking is a timing issue. 

Is the inlet choked with soot/tar from the exhaust gas recirculation muck?

Edited 12 April, 20224 yr by Urrell

Do bears **** in the woods?

 

Urrell has nailed it, all the "technicians" in the world staring at fault codes will be telling you there is nothing wrong with your car until the throttle stepper motor becomes obstructed.

 

Whip it apart, clean it and you wont believe the difference in performance and economy, a Greenline should be the best of a worst bunch and not the worst.

While you are doing it reverse the direction of the EGR port and invest in an EGR emulator/simulator or better still have the emissions fix rolled back.

Ah well, the throttle valve was indeed dirty, cleaned it all off, sparkling now, but alas no change. Maybe it idles slightly smootherComing up the not very steep hill to my house, 40mph limit, doing around 38mph in forth, around 1400rpm, foot to the floor, nothing happens except the engine shakes like blazes.got to change into third to get it back up to 40mph, it has to be above 1500rpm or it just goes nowhere. I did notice the EGR port opening  was facing down to the ground, not to the inlet manifold. Does this mean the fix hasn't been done?.

Any other ideas folks?

19 minutes ago, Bison said:

I did notice the EGR port opening  was facing down to the ground, not to the inlet manifold. Does this mean the fix hasn't been done?.

No they are all like that, at least Audi has started changing then round, need to file a bit where it goes in to fit facing downstream.

Could it be the vanes in the turbo want freeing off?

22 minutes ago, Bison said:

it has to be above 1500rpm or it just goes nowhere

Mine is not as bad as that but if accelerating I make sure to be above 2000 revs or it is not that smooth especially as the Greenline 1.6 does not have a DMF to smooth the power pulses out.

 

Well, perhaps I'm expecting too much at low revs?. I had wondered about a remap, but if there's a fault I would like to get that fixed first.  As Urrel says, it goes ok (I think, I haven't driven another one?) above 1500rpm, but not being able to put the car into 5th until over 50mph is a pain, and I'm sure the fuel consumption will be even worse?.

 

1 hour ago, Bison said:

I had wondered about a remap,

If the car has had the "FIX" make sure whoever does it removes it before remapping it.
The remap changes what is on the car at the time, it must be rolled back to the original state before remapping.

I share your frustration, I too have a very thirsty 1.6 Greenline, my average was in the 20's when i bought it. 

 

Over the past year I have changed MAP sensor, MAF sensor, n75 valve, checked turbo actuator pipes for cracks, remapped with EGR blocked, new injector, however the single best treatment in my experience was a DPF cleaner spray;  the pipe is inserted through the oxygen sensor when the engine is cold - the whole can is sprayed in, the sensor replaced and left for 15 mins or so, the car is left at idle for 15 mins before a decent drive to blow the muck out

 

The car now regens correctly, revs more freely and I'm getting average consumption in the mid-high 40's. 

 

My experiences, there will always be other opinions. 

 

 

That's interesting. I have some JLM DPF Regen plus in at the moment, and the DPF according to the Diagnostic that was done, measured the  oil/ash volume was at around 33gms, 35gms is the limit seemingly, or did I pick that up incorrectly?.

How do you know when it's doing a regen?, the fan stays on?, can't say I've noticed.

 

Edited 12 April, 20224 yr by Bison

 When I had my 2014 1.6 Greenline I was getting on long runs well over 50/55mpg.

Up to 40mpg on shortish runs. I found it very economical.

I never had the VW remap change done.

But what I had noticed with the new generation of Diesels is, you have to drive them like they are petrol engines.

So, don't change up too early.

My wife still pulls away & into second before 15mph. No good, you really need to make the engine work.

With the 2Lt having a bit more power can cope with that, but it's not good. Try it driving up through the revs more.

Edited 12 April, 20224 yr by Carlodiesel

16 minutes ago, Bison said:

That's interesting. I have some JLM DPF Regen plus in at the moment, and the DPF according to the Diagnostic that was done, measured the  oil/ash volume was at around 33gms, 35gms is the limit seemingly, or did I pick that up incorrectly?.

How do you know when it's doing a regen?, the fan stays on?, can't say I've noticed.

 

 

A friend ran his VAG laptop over my 1.6 Greenline, it confirmed an ash volume of x grams out of 60 grams, so I presume 60g is the limit. 

 

I think JLM DPF regen plus is the stuff you put in the tank rather than the stuff you squirt into the oxygen sensor on the DPF. 

Yes, I agree, got to rev it like a petrol engine, I was trying to increase my MPG, that's why I was driving slowly, when I drive it like a petrol engined car I get 38mpg at best.

Just did a short motorway trip at 60mph to 70mph this afternoon, maybe 35 miles, according to the dash readout I averaged 34MPG.

Yes, the regen is just to raise the exhaust temperature, you put it in the tank. I'll get some Wurth DPF cleaner when the tankful is depleted. Can't do any harm.

Can you remember which one you used?.

Edited 12 April, 20224 yr by Bison

6 hours ago, Urrell said:

If the car has had the "FIX" make sure whoever does it removes it before remapping it.
The remap changes what is on the car at the time, it must be rolled back to the original state before remapping.

 

That was not the case with my remap which I am still very happy with the results of 2 years and 30k miles later.

 

I wanted it rolled back, they could do it but only at their workshop in Cornwall and Covid restrictions prevented it from happening, instead the remap was done by one of their local agents.

 

I still intend to get it done to reduce the frequency of regens which is programmed to happen because of the over-use of EGR on the "emissions fixed" vehicles, I have an EGR simulator so they are not happening and I begrudge the frequent regens for nothing, the extra diesel it uses and the bore wash.

 

Celtic tuning said that the remap would wor equally well on an "emission fixed" vehicle as one that had not been done and that has been the case for me, I am hoping to get them to remove the fix soon anyway.

 

I get 50-55mpg from a 2.0 TDi 4x4 Yeti and would expect a 2wd 1.6 Blueline to be considerably better.

18 hours ago, J.R. said:

I get 50-55mpg from a 2.0 TDi 4x4 Yeti and would expect a 2wd 1.6 Greenline to be considerably better.

 

😊 ah, bless

 

If only

Returning from a days slog today on the hilly terrain through the vineyards towing a laden 1.5 tonne trailer the maxidot showed 41.6mpg over a 13 mile journey and I thought of your poor consumption figures.

 

I was driving slow though as I was knackered, the other afternoon I did the same journey with the same trailer but unladen and was pressing on because I was late, windy roads so lots of acceleration & braking, it only returned 30 mpg.

On 12/04/2022 at 09:25, Bison said:

I would have expected perhaps black smoke if the pump timing was out?, or of course if it were not supplying enough fuel at any given revs, the equivalent of running weak, this could cause my problems?.

 

My understanding of these more modern common rail diesels is that the pump is not timed - unlike older technology diesels? The CR pump creates effectively a constant high pressure and it is the electronically operated injectors that time the 'squirt'.

 

If as said previously by others the cambelt was fitted one tooth out, it would affect the timing of the inlet & exhaust valves, and adversely impact the overall performance of the engine. However I don't know these specific engines - and don't know if it possible for the belt to be mistimed and the engine still be able to run?