Clutch pedal sticking

[Hogaholics]

Hi Im brand new to Briskoda, Over the past days my clutch pedal has stayed down, if I put a toe under it it has flicked backup. Then twice today (fortunately going slowly) changing down the pedal has gone limp and would not come back up. Also I could not get the car out of gear and stopping on the brake, the only way I could get it out of gear was to switch off, restart and things were back working. Any thoughts on the most likely fault.

[Warrior193]

Hi, welcome to the forum. The problem is probably due to a failing clutch slave cylinder. Try searching the subject on this forum. 

[Hogaholics]

Hi Thanks for that, It looks quite straight forward changing it, so Ill get one, as its the cheapest and a good start point. Just had a quote of Euro 1500.00 for a worst case  scenario.

[Hogaholics]

Hi Dose anybody know if the slave cylinder on a Octavia mk3 is the same on a 6 speed mq200 or mq250 transmission, as I cannot find out which mine is. And I want to be sure I'm getting the correct one.

 

[T07]

Slave cylinder is within the clutch

[Hogaholics]

Hi, Thanks to those who got back, I did the slave, and its exactly the same as before, so looking at the master. The octavia is the 1.4 tsi 140hp, do parts of the dash have to come out to change it, I can see the connections in the engine bay, for the fluid and feed to the slave but not all the fixings inside the car, thats what makes me think part of the dash has to come out. Any help.

[J.R.]

Clutch pedal bracket needs removing (two 8mm bolts under dash) remove fluid pipes and position sensor cable then the cylinder is removed by twisting the bayonet fitting.

 

Difficult first time but I can do it by feel now.

 

If you removed the transmission to replace the slave cylinder then it will be a walk in the park for you, you did remove the transmission didn't you? It was actually the slave cylinder that you replaced and not the bleed block/peak torque limiter?

 

Most people would have changed the master cylinder first hoping it might be that as its far easier and cheaper.

[J.R.]

Actually if you have access the pedal bracket can be left in place and the cylinder removed from the engine side.

[Hogaholics]

Hi, Thanks JR, on my car the slave cylinder is right on top of the bell housing and was a very easy to change. I can see the back end of the cylinder and think the pipes would be no problem, is the sensor cable in the foot well and dose it just pull out or is there a way to remove it. Thanks again.

[J.R.]

No, the connector is on the engine bay side of the bulkhead.

 

Have you correctly bled the clutch?

 

It does not need a pressure bleeder simply gravity, if you can rig up a vertical tube from the bleed tap to the height of the fluid reservoir then you can leave it overnight for any air trapped in the pipework bends, normally the air from the cylinder will rise to a pocket under the bleed valve & it just needs opening for a few seconds until fluid comes out like bleeding a domestic radiator.

[Fez]

Hi, I have a similar issue with my 2014 2.0 petrol 6 speed manual and we ended up replacing the clutch feed pipe. 

 

Back in March I was driving back home and lost the clutch and needed to pull it back up. It was then fine for a couple of weeks, then happened again. I spoke with my trusted mechanic who owns a vRS himself. In researching it seems it could end up being a bit of parts cannon, so he found a thread on here saying the clutch feed pipe fixed the issue. We decide to start there and it seems to have fixed the issue.

 

This was done at the start of May and 1.5k later of mostly town driving the issue hasn't come back.