T07

blocked heater matrix, charge cooler leaking or head gasket gone are the other options

Your fronts will probably be 340mm. They reduced the front brake size at some point though hence why the 312s were suggested. Rears are likely the 272mm. There will be a sticker in the boot with all the codes. 1kt is likely your brake code and AUTODOC should reference the code. That’s where I got my manuals. Not sure if they still work https://www.hypermiler.co.uk/skoda/skoda-octavia-mk-iii-2013-workshop-service-maintenance-repair-manuals-downloads-inc-vrs-free

There’s good access through the temperature sensor for a camera too to see if it’s leaking. Could clearly see water drops in mine

Pretty sure the egr is closed during a Regen so shouldn’t be impacting the coolant circuit. The charge coolers are notorious for failing on these also. Probably worth checking that

Auxiliary pump maybe? At the back lower part of engine

Look up Peter hawthorn / get mapped. Not sure where he is but he seems to know these engines

A MagSafe vent mount is probably the neatest I think. You might just need a MagSafe cover for your phone. Then run the lead from the usb port. https://ebay.us/m/5UGuz9

I think I read something before about an additional oil cooler being fitted from the factory with towbars. So if it’s a retrofitted towbar it likely won’t have one. Worth a google to check if one can be retrofitted?

Try looking at Cuna engine in gtd’s. I’ve a cupa engine and it drinks oil so have done some digging. The issue is just as bad if not worse for golf owners judging by what I’ve seen

I’d get rid of it. This era of the engine is known for high consumption with sticking piston rings etc. check get mapped/ Peter hawthorn on Facebook

Try https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/OCT/753 That might help you get the part number. They can also provide the part usually

There’s a revised oil cap with an upgraded yellow seal. Don’t think a 2015 would have come stock with it, might be worth a look into.

Right this has nothing to do with how it’s been bled or anything like that and there are known issues with these engines and coolant loss. Search this forum or Facebook for “my gtd blows cold” So first things first, do you have heat from both the drivers vent and passengers vents in the car? If very uneven it’s likely a blocked heater matrix. The matrix is next in line to the egr cooler on the coolant circuit so when the engine does a dpf regen the coolant is a lot hotter in this part of the circuit, if the matrix is partially blocked it vents coolant back to the reservoir which usually over pressurises things and dumps coolant out the overflow of the reservoir. Check for white coolant staining under your reservoir. Next thing it could be is a leaking charge cooler. Also very common on these. Easy to check with a endoscope camera through the temperature sensor. The other thing it could be is a leaking egr cooler. Again quite common. The hoses going to the matrix in the engine bay are on the back right, not behind the turbo, so your mechanic hasn’t removed them.

Is your handbrake cable sticking?

No idea to be honest. Was just a cheap one from ebay

Cold engine was fine, think it was a 17mm spanner or very deep socket needed

Likely charge cooler from experience. Try get a borescope down the temperature sensor. Do a search on here, one useful threads. Or drop me a message if you need some guidance.

It’ll be a switchable pump as standard. Some people opt for non switchable due to the shroud getting stuck on the switchable pumps and causing overheating issues

Think you only reset the oil service due. Keep holding the button in until insp comes up then press again to reset it

Heater matrix or egr cooler

If your heater matrix is blocked the engine won’t overheat. There are three separate coolant circuits on the engine, engine, egr cooler and charge cooler. If the matrix is blocked when doing a regen the egr cooler gets substantially hotter and it can’t then pass through the full circuit to be cooled as the matrix is blocked so bypasses it back to the tank where it can boil the coolant out of the thank. The engine temperature sensor is on the block so will still read a steady 90

Charge cooler can leak causing the engine to be harder to turn over. Not sure if the 1.6 has a charge cooler though

Keep an eye on things. Could also be a leaking egr cooler or leaky charge cooler causing things.

Check the settings in the radio. There’s lighting settings in there, might be something turned off?

There’s a lot of threads on here and other mqb platform forums about the oil consumption. Is your dpf cleaned or have you had it removed? If not mapped out properly might be causing issues.