Warrior193

What does the temperature gauge indicate on a hard climb uphill?

Welcome to the forum. Personally, I wouldn't be too concerned with those small increases in coolant temperature - 98deg.C is still a fair way off boiling temperature at pressure and the cooling system appears to be controlling the temperature increases correctly. Is the engine possibly doing a DPF regen when these temperature rises occur?

At that rate of use, I'd be getting just a little worried about having a runaway!

What is your average mileage travelled between services?

If possible, splash out a bit for the two-handed type of rivnut setter, rather than the type that looks like a regular pop riveter. You really want the rivnut to be 'set hard' so that there's less likelyhood of it rotating in the hole. The rivnuts have splines up the side to help prevent this, close hole size is important.

+1 for my Octavia - very rare that auto setting doesn't adjust correctly to changing conditions.

Hi Jiggz, welcome to the forum. Bit of a coincidence, but there has been a recent post with a similar problem - using a blind M8 Rivnut has been suggested.

LEDs typically draw lower current than filament lamps, plus I'm pretty sure the trunk lighting circuit isn't monitored on the canbus lamp failure system. LEDs will typically be at least 3 to 5 times brighter for the same wattage filament lamp. I have occasionally seen posts where some very cheap LEDs have caused issues with flickering or not switching off correctly, but if sourced from a reputable supplier, this shouldn't be a problem.

She Who Must Be Obeyed.

Swapped the original light fitting. Try searching for SEAT match.

Welcome to the forum. Do I assume correctly this vehicle isn't fitted with DCC suspension? I cannot see any way the ride height sensor can actually affect ride height - it senses the ride height for correct headlight alignment - not control ride height. Most likely a tired spring - or possibly an incorrect replacement at some time.

I'm having issues attaching a link to the type I used - but search for LED luggage trunk lights on Ebay. These are LED, not filament lamps, so are significantly brighter. I also fitted a single one into SWMBOs Mk3 Fabia and that lights up the whole trunk.

There are much brighter LED replacements that simply plug & play, I fitted two, plus one in the glove compartment of my Mk3 and they are a huge improvement. Best to avoid the very cheap units from a certain Chinese online seller.

According to a search, typical pressures for 134A A/C systems are - Static (A/C off) 4 to 6bar. Suction side (running @20deg.C) 1.7 to 3.1bar. Discharge side - 10 to 17bar.

I'd say from that pressure of 0.8bar, that the system has lost all its refrigerant.

Welcome to the forum. Get the cam timing pulley bolts checked ASAP.

Welcome to the forum. Are you sure the hook isn't in its storage place?

From an internet search, any indication of a fault in ADAS systems may be a fail if the defect is considered to be serious - therefore it appears to be dependent on the tester's opinion whether the function should be available. Some research gives prices of between £100 - £350 for recalibration of the front assist radar by an independent specialist. Unless the vehicle was a real bargain, I'd give that one a miss - AFAIK, even standard cruise will be disabled by the radar fault. There also could well be insurance consequences, in the case of a collision, if the underwriter considered the absence of front assist contributed to the accident.

It may be a MOT failure if there is a fault light in the instrument cluster indicating ADAS issues, as these systems are supposed to enhance vehicle safety. The fault may be that the Front Assist radar requires recalibration and/or replacement of broken mounting brackets - these are very easily damaged, even in only a very light shunt!

Right, it sounds like you may have at least two, possibly three separate faults. I'd suggest that you need to find a good independent who will at least consider suggestions. 1 - probable faulty park/neutral switch: This will prevent starter motor from cranking the engine if the switch is falsely sensing the transmission isn't in park or neutral. 2 - Possible faulty crank or camshaft position sensor: This fault will allow the engine to crank normally - but typically results in failure of engine to start - or only after an extended cranking period. This fault is often reported be worse when the engine is up to temperature (start is often normal when engine is cold) 3 - Have all cable connections to starter motor checked, especially the chassis ground cable.

To clarify, when you experience this starting issue, does the starter motor simply fail to crank the engine?

The A/c compressor on your vehicle does not have an electric clutch, but is permanently driven by the aux. belt. There is a mechanical shear-plate connecting the compressor shaft to the pulley, check that it is still connected to the compressor. Yes, VCDS should give you data on the A/C.

I'm finding it a bit of a struggle to understand how a software update can eliminate a transmission noise - has it been explained to you what this noise is?

Welcome to the forum. I'd strongly suggest having the park/neutral position switch properly tested and/or replaced.

Get the starter battery load tested - at simplest, measure the battery voltage at the terminals with a meter while engine is being cranked-over on the starter. Did the vehicle suffer an impact around the time of the breakdown? Could the SS message you saw have been something like SS not available?