Here is my Throttle Posistin Sensor, looks good but

 

 

 

 

 

 

1) I need the ETKA code for this part, no matter how hard i have searced everybody gives the whole throttle as ''set" and not that sensor as individual or some sell the MAP sensor (!) for it

2) How can i test this sensor if it works properly? In YT the guys have a 3 pin, here is an example and for sure i would dare to open the whole throttle from the other side which is the potensiometer, some plastic gears etc (i have seen some other guys to do it).

 

Can a fine Gentleman help me on this matter?

Edited 2 November, 20223 yr by D.FYLAKTOS

9 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

How can i test this sensor if it works properly? In YT the guys have a 3 pin, here is an example and for sure i would dare to open the whole throttle from the other side which is the potensiometer, some plastic gears etc (i have seen some other guys to do it).

 

find the pin out and cross check the two inverse potentiometers with a multimeter

 

No good news, this is from anothe Felicia same as mine, i don't konw if i can open the side plate and remove that 7pin sensor.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then i have to do the same with my throttle body (plus new gasket) and if that won't work then again the whole procedure in reverse? Oh God No.

 

047133061 PIERBURG 5WP4270

 

With that code the Google Search results wer disappointingly but searching with just the code 047133061 the results were just a little bit better.

The price for new here in the local market is at least 320-370 € and of course no one sells the 7 pin connector it self.

 

Here a guy manage to open it from the side.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Of course i don't dare to alone such a thing.

 

 

I manage to take some photos (not very good) to show you something which i have done n the past and i think is Wrong.

I apply grease to the plastic part (reel) of the throttle as a maintenance but i was exaggerate.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have the thought that after few years this became some sort of ''sticky'' making the moving of the wire a little bit difficult especially when i release the gas pedal and the throttle plate returns to Close position.

Am i right or the tension of the mechanism (spring) is more powerful and can slur over?

 

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

I would not imagine the sticky would hinder the cable much if at all.  To test you could pull against the spring and see how strong the action is, or have someone sit in the car to press and release the accelerator pedal whilst you look at how well the throttle cable operates.

 

Probably best to remove the sticky as it will only get mucky.

 

I see you have 7 wires and not 5 as I thought.

 

Edited 18 November, 20223 yr by nta16

 

As the throttle plate is in ''resting'' position the ''Z'' style guyde does not touch the plastic stop

 

 

 

 

but when i press it with my finger it closes and touch it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

When i release my finger the ''Z'' guide returns back as the throttle plate.

 

I know that there must be a gap between the plate and the body of the throttle because some air needed to pass inside for the idle but i don't think that muck helps in something so i remove it with a brush and a cleaning spray.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

Have a look at the workshop manual and see how it should be set up.

 

21 hours ago, nta16 said:

 

Have a look at the workshop manual and see how it should be set up.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

No one has ever touched the cable at least for about 20 years.

 

When the throttle plate returns to ''rest'' position (Off) seems to stop ''physically" ,only when i pushed with my finger the ''Z'' guide moves and touches the plastic buffer.

The throttle plate can not close 100% otherwise the system will not have enough air for idle procedure and i think the grease much was delaying even stopped a little bit sooner (even for 1mm) the whole procedure.

 

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

So cable adjustment is at throttle body end and for near enough wide open throttle and the other end of the revs is set by the magic electric box.

 

20 years of use probably mean things have worn a bit and adjustment required.  I am not sure how much the sticky grease would imped the cable travel as I guess the spring is strong but it would not hurt to clean it all off.  The end stops on the cable wheel and body of throttle are quite substantial so I would have thought been designed for a lot of use, idle stops I would guess but I do not know the unit at all.  I did notice a slight bend in the cable and wondered if this signified anything.

 

Edited 19 November, 20223 yr by nta16

54 minutes ago, nta16 said:

I am not sure how much the sticky grease would imped the cable travel as I guess the spring is strong but it would not hurt to clean it all off. 

 

I did notice a slight bend in the cable and wondered if this signified anything.

 

 

The TC-6 says the fuel consumption in idle is ''approximately 0,8 ltr per hour" but i was seeing in the LCD screen always 0,9-1,00 ltr/hour which means every time the throttle plate was closing was not as it should be.

More air-more gasoline-more fuel consumption in idle (traffic light for example) and especially in city traffic this is very crucial.

I cleaned the sticky grease, lubricate the plastic reel and the axle of the plate and ofter some minutes of driving i started seeing 0,8-0,9 ltr/hour in the LCD screen, i don't think it was a coincidence.

 

This gives some kind of tolerance, i have tried in the first years to make it more tight (i thougth will give immediately response to the gas pedal) but i saw that i was very wrong.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

You can only set it as per the instructions as there is a computer involved, the computer wants what it wants, it is the master you are its slave.

 

37 minutes ago, nta16 said:

 

You can only set it as per the instructions as there is a computer involved, the computer wants what it wants, it is the master you are its slave.

 

 

No errors from throttle with 3 diagnostics.

A local ''car guy'' with many cars (one of them was Favorit) told me that a gap of 100 rpm is not noticable from the computer and will not give an error.

He insited that ''something small'' is the cause of that raise of fuel consumption on idle and suggested me to check the TPS but with 7 pns and no background (video from another Felicia) i can not do anything.

The guys with 3 pins have the knowledge ready.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

4 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

No errors from throttle with 3 diagnostics.

Perhaps the gap from the stops was not there at the three diagnostics or the computer set up was done with that gap so the computer takes that as the setting(?).

 

I would have thought the stops are there for the accelerator to be at full rest for idle with the throttle plate as open as required for idle.

 

What does the workshop manual say about the stops.

 

 

2 hours ago, nta16 said:

What does the workshop manual say about the stops.

 

The manual says what i have posted with photos.

It's impossible for the returning of the plate to have such a force as my finger, even if you full open the throttle manually and let it drop with it's own momentum does not go any further.

Always stops at the same point, few mm before the buffer.

 

 

One day i will make a test, with the car idling i will push with my finger the plate to close more, if the engine stops means no air is coming to the engine, if it continuous working means something is wrong with the adjustment.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

Well, I do not know (obviously), perhaps they are absolute stops in case the accelerator cable snap(?) but then wouldn't the engine stalk if the flap is fully closed(?).  I can only see it as I put before but I do not know and am often wrong.

 

Other Felicia owners must have the same mechanism or similar pity they are not around at the moment.

 

 

19 hours ago, nta16 said:

Other Felicia owners must have the same mechanism or similar

 

The throttle bodys with wire (as mine) are not common among other models from other car brands?

Check with vcds 

15 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Check with vcds 

 

I will try to find a local repair-shop with it, most of them have a laptop which connect it with cable in my OBD1 port and after few seconds say ''No errors".

 

Hahaha obviously if they can read it. 

 

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

No errors is not the same as no faults, off spec or something is wrong, no errors means the criteria to give error has not been meet or the error has or cannot be read, for many reasons.  Computers and their programs also can be wrong or go wrong, it is one of the great delights of their ownership and use.

 

 

I have made a simple test today, the car has hot, i removed the black cover of the throttle and pushed a little bit the plate.

It moved, the ''Z'' metal guide touched the plastic buffer and stopped.

The car was working normally (pushing down the plate at front means the back end rised so air was coming inside) except a ''Hssss'' sound. I kept the plate down for few seconds, the car didn't turned-off the the ''Hssss'' sound continued, i left my finger the plate returned to the ''rest'' position and the ''Hsss'' sound stopped, only the sound of normal idle was heard.

I did it again another one time, exactly the same results, so? That's good or bad?

Is sunctioned air, right?