Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

Not all items are given a service interval, some are even for 'life', who's or what's life is sometimes unclear, seems to be once the vehicle has passed any sort of warranty period for many items.  I doubt the car manufacturers would care about the servicing of a car out of the longest warranty period given, other than for selling parts and labour, and certainly not an 18 year-old car - but you might as the owner/user.

 

Lots of components, parts and items have obviously lasted 18 years already but you might consider some of those might have deteriorate to a point where some people might consider they' ae better replaced (other people will have an opposite view or much less holistic (if that's the right word) view).  Depending on how much you have done or actually used your 1979 VW bus you will know what I mean and agree or disagree.

 

Like the drive (fan) belt you put a photo up of earlier, it may have a general 'life' of use/age/kilometres but a careful full inspection may show an increased or decreased 'life' span for it.

 

If you do not know the history of the vehicle, components and parts it's even more of a gamble than when you do.  

 

11 hours ago, nta16 said:

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

Not all items are given a service interval, some are even for 'life', who's or what's life is sometimes unclear, seems to be once the vehicle has passed any sort of warranty period for many items.  I doubt the car manufacturers would care about the servicing of a car out of the longest warranty period given, other than for selling parts and labour, and certainly not an 18 year-old car - but you might as the owner/user.

 

Lots of components, parts and items have obviously lasted 18 years already but you might consider some of those might have deteriorate to a point where some people might consider they' ae better replaced (other people will have an opposite view or much less holistic (if that's the right word) view).  Depending on how much you have done or actually used your 1979 VW bus you will know what I mean and agree or disagree.

 

Like the drive (fan) belt you put a photo up of earlier, it may have a general 'life' of use/age/kilometres but a careful full inspection may show an increased or decreased 'life' span for it.

 

If you do not know the history of the vehicle, components and parts it's even more of a gamble than when you do.  

 

 

Great point... for example the book might not mention changing fuel filter at all because if you run the car long enough ALL parts of the car would need replacing at some point.

 

The MOT in Sweden is very good at pointing out things that might become safety issues. So my thinking is that if they don't say anything about the breaks, suspension, steering, lights etc, then all is well.

 

I had a MOT shortly after buying the car so may this year.

 

Headlights did not pass, had to polish them, then they passed.

 

They MOT tests in Sweden also have a portion where they mention stuff that is "Good to know" about the car.

In my case it was:

 

1. Rust, Front axel beam (Swedish= framaxelbalk, not sure about the correct translation here)

2. Front, anti roll bar links, both sides, gap in connection (Swedish = Krängningshämmare, stag)

3. Whishbones, front, both sides, rust (Swedish = Länkarm)

 

I'm planning to change to winter tires tomorrow. So then perhaps I can get a peak at the anti roll bar links, and also measure them so I know what part to get if I need to replace them. I'm not sure what else to check, but I hear something about bushings?

 

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

Having an MoT test pass is good, but . . .

 

A lot of people in this country rely on an MoT as a state of health report but this must be put in context, the MoT, here at least, is just to say the car passed a statutory minimum standard to one trained person's opinion at one moment in time only.  It does not mean the vehicle is good or as good as it could be, only that it meets the requirements I have just put, and another tester may have a different opinion, and the car could have something that fails the test at any point after the test.

 

Over recent years the UK MoT test has become stricter and more comprehensive but it still remains that a car that is far from its best can pass, obviously it shouldn't have major issues, that are tested for, but there is some much on a car to perform below par and to go wrong.  The testers are trained but they do not have x-ray eyes and have many limitations in what they can check and have to check. 

 

Here a car can pass the MoT with advisories that need attention but often some may not be attended to and at next year's MoT they may not be mentioned yet remained the same with no attention give between MoTs or the same advisories show again.

 

Long and short of it, in the UK at least, there can be over-confidence in a car having an MoT, some people think it means nothing needs attention until the next MoT.

 

51 minutes ago, JHAnd said:

framaxelbalk

Google says "front axle beam"! which is clearly a wrong or over-literal translation, particularly since the car has a compound strut front suspension and not a rigid beam. Also. I'd want to see any "rust" on suspension components since that may be surface rust and not structural.

6 hours ago, JHAnd said:

So then perhaps I can get a peak at the anti roll bar links, and also measure them so I know what part to get if I need to replace them.

 

I can strongly recommend Meyle HD drop links. They are even better than the factory ones.

 

Part number: Meyle 1160600000/HD

 

Edited 5 November, 20223 yr by TMB

6 hours ago, KenONeill said:

Google says "front axle beam"! which is clearly a wrong or over-literal translation, particularly since the car has a compound strut front suspension and not a rigid beam. Also. I'd want to see any "rust" on suspension components since that may be surface rust and not structural.

 

It's probably surface rust since it is in the "Good to know" section, but yes it would be good to see for myself... I should have made him show me when I was at the MOT.

How do you guys do when you want to get a view under the car? Do you have ramps or do you use jack stands?

I have som jack stands that are 54 cm high... so could perhaps use those, but I only have the jack that came with the car, don't think it will lift high enough to get the stands under the car.

 

1 hour ago, TMB said:

 

I can strongly recommend Meyle HD drop links. They are even better than the factory ones.

 

Part number: Meyle 1160600000/HD

 

Thanks for the tip! I'll check them out!

 

Could I ask a, perhaps stupid, question...out of curiosity, are drop links and anti roll bars necessary for the saftey of the car? Or could I in theory just remove the whole anti roll bar and it's components? Or would the MOT guy fail me for that?

Edited 5 November, 20223 yr by JHAnd

Front anti roll bar is basically essential and the car would handle very badly without one.

8 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

Front anti roll bar is basically essential and the car would handle very badly without one.

 

My MK2 Fiesta didn't have one from the factory and it was like a wet sponge round corners

On 05/11/2022 at 12:25, KenONeill said:

Also. I'd want to see any "rust" on suspension components since that may be surface rust and not structural.

 

Wishbone right side

 

Edited 7 November, 20223 yr by JHAnd

On 05/11/2022 at 17:25, TMB said:

 

I can strongly recommend Meyle HD drop links. They are even better than the factory ones.

Part number: Meyle 1160600000/HD

 

 

I have the front right tire off now, and have tried to check if anti roll bar link is loose. As you may recall from my post above the MOT test said there was a gap in link connection on both sides of the car)

 

I have tried to feel this supposed gap by pulling and pushing the link with my hand... I do not feel like there is any gap, the only thing that happens is  car rocks a bit back and forth.

 

But when driving the car I do feel that there is a lot of noise when going over a speed bump for example. But that could be the strut top mounts? What part is more likley to make noise, mount or link?

 

Should I change out these links or just leave them be?

 

 

 

 

Edited 7 November, 20223 yr by JHAnd

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

50 minutes ago, JHAnd said:

I have tried to feel this supposed gap by pulling and pushing the link with my hand... I do not feel like there is any gap, the only thing that happens is  car rocks a bit back and forth.

Unless you are one of Sweden's entrants for Worlds Strongest Man you may not be having the same effect as the car's weight and movement, the tester probably(?) used a bar to test or the gap was with the weight of the car rested on its wheels/tyres.

 

Personally I do not think that it is a good idea to have the car rocking if it is supported by the jack that comes with the car or just one axle stand.

 

57 minutes ago, JHAnd said:

But when driving the car I do feel that there is a lot of noise when going over a speed bump for example. But that could be the strut top mounts? What part is more likley to make noise, mount or link?

It could be a few things including these and a combination of these and others, a good place to start would be as the tester found and advised.  The more parts that are fixed securely and not too worn the better your chances of locating other noises or looseness and/or wear.

 

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

Unless you are one of Sweden's entrants for Worlds Strongest Man you may not be having the same effect as the car's weight and movement, the tester probably(?) used a bar to test or the gap was with the weight of the car rested on its wheels/tyres.

Good point.

 

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

It could be a few things including these and a combination of these and others, a good place to start would be as the tester found and advised.  The more parts that are fixed securely and not too worn the better your chances of locating other noises or looseness and/or wear.

 

Also a good point. Thanks!

This is the wishbone on the front left side. The rust seems a bit worse then on the right side but still only surface rust....

 

Perhaps I should brush of the worst flakes with a metal brush and spray some hammerite over it to slow the rust down.

 

Any other suggestions?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

Others may know better but personally I would wire brush the worst off both sides but I would not use Hammerite as there are better products around.

Some might use a rust converter and then a suitable standard paint(s) rather than any type of anti-corrasion wax or paint like Hammerite.

I would use something like Dynax -UB because I am lazy with this sort of thing and do not like anything to do with painting and gluing. but I am not sure how often would be best to reapply it as I never got around to using it.

 

Others will have other suggestions.

 

1 hour ago, JHAnd said:

This is the wishbone on the front left side. The rust seems a bit worse then on the right side but still only surface rust....

 

Perhaps I should brush of the worst flakes with a metal brush and spray some hammerite over it to slow the rust down.

 

Any other suggestions?

 

I wouldn't worry about it at all, that's only surface rust.

5 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

 

I wouldn't worry about it at all, that's only surface rust.

 

Agreed with this. Worry about the more pressing matters, if any (I haven't read the rest of this thread, just the past few posts).

Yeah, that rust on the wishbones is entirely normal. Most cars look like that underneath unless they are pretty new.

 

As for the drop links - it's often difficult to feel any wear in them on the car. Best just renew them as they are a common failure and cause of knocks.

Perhaps I'll wait with the rust then... and move on. I took some photos of the brakes.

 

Do they look OK?

 

Brake pad is 7-8 mm thick on the right side. About the same on the left side.

 

Pic 1-2 Front Right

Pic 3-4 Front Left

Pic 5    Rear Left

Pic 6    Rear Right

 

 

 

 

Edited 7 November, 20223 yr by JHAnd

23 minutes ago, JHAnd said:

Pic 3-4 Front Left

Looks a bit rusty to me, and if one needs replacing it's best to replace the other one on the same axle.

12 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

Looks a bit rusty to me, and if one needs replacing it's best to replace the other one on the same axle.

Are you refering to the front disc brakes or the drum brakes?

Those front discs are well past their best. Can't see anything with the drum brakes as the drums are still on.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

ETA: TMB posted whilst I was typing.

 

Front.  You can't really see the rear brakes as they are inside the drums.  Front do most of the work (along with the tyres).

 

If the brakes feel OK in use then I would wait until the better and warm weather, same with the rust on the wishbones unless I was doing other work there like replacing droplinks as you are in that area working anyway and you get at and around more with some bits removed for replacement.

 

You can test the brake fluid for water content to see if that can wait for better weather to change if required.

 

You are always better to have your brakes and suspension in the best reasonable condition but yours have passed your country's minimum statutory requirements so if they do not vary from this with your use it can wait for better weather if you want to.

 

Edited 7 November, 20223 yr by nta16
missing word

2 hours ago, JHAnd said:

the front disc brakes

Probable clue in how I quoted part of your relevant message.

On 07/11/2022 at 23:31, KenONeill said:

Probable clue in how I quoted part of your relevant message.

Thanks, you were in fact quite clear, but since the drums in the rear were so obviously rusty I wanted clarification. Also since I was not sure if those flakes on the front brakes were rust or just crud. Since I had put the wheels on again I could not check easily. Also I thought that the friction area where the pad meets the disc was the most critical and if there was a bit of surface rust/crud on the edge of the disc it did not matter much. I mean since the edges don't touch the pads, a little rust would be ok?

 

Since the pads are not worn too bad, do you think I could wait with the discs until spring?

 

About the rear brakes... Is it OK for the outside of the drum to be that rusty? Since no one mentioned this I figured that it is OK, but just to be sure I'd like to ask again... sorry again for asking about the same thing twice, just in need of clarification!

 

On 07/11/2022 at 21:23, TMB said:

Can't see anything with the drum brakes as the drums are still on.

 

Thanks, should I remove the drums to inspect them? Or should I inspect them through the inspection hole mentioned in the maintenance pdf ?

 

On 07/11/2022 at 21:25, nta16 said:

If the brakes feel OK in use then I would wait until the better and warm weather, same with the rust on the wishbones unless I was doing other work there like replacing droplinks as you are in that area working anyway and you get at and around more with some bits removed for replacement.

 

You can test the brake fluid for water content to see if that can wait for better weather to change if required.

 

You are always better to have your brakes and suspension in the best reasonable condition but yours have passed your country's minimum statutory requirements so if they do not vary from this with your use it can wait for better weather if you want to.

 

Then I would need a brake fluid tester. Heard something about the pen types being unreliable. What kind of tester would you recommend?

1 minute ago, JHAnd said:

Thanks, should I remove the drums to inspect them? Or should I inspect them through the inspection hole mentioned in the maintenance pdf ?

 

You need to remove the drums to inspect the brake shoes, cylinders & drum friction surfaces.

 

The rust on the drums is normal, you could clean them up a bit with a wire brush.