FABIA COMFORT 16V

Petrol

Engine 1390 cc

2004

82k mileage

 

Hi guys,

Almost 50% of the time my battery light comes on after the engine starts, it goes away once the engine is revved slightly. On a few occasions its took a multiple turns to get her to start. I replaced the battery which has helped but still the issue persists. The odd thing is that the alternator looks pretty new to me but it looks like the previous owner/mechanic might have snapped the connector and tried to glue it - I'm not sure (see photos attached). 

 

If I rev a little the battery light goes off and the interior light gets brighter. Oddly enough it seems to have been starting much better with the recent cold weather even after days of not being used. Any help would be really appreciated - thanks.

 

Multi-meter readings from battery;

- Before start (12.45v)

- Engine started (with battery light - 11.56v)

- After gentle revving (battery light off - 14.4v)

 

 

 

bump

Agreed, looks new.

Looks also like someone broke the connection, as you have said.

 

That circuit afaik, is for the 'excitor' or what engages the alternator to make power.

 

I assume you have recently acquired this car?

I have had experience of a diode failing on the alternator giving similar symptoms. The alternator produces AC and the full bridge rectifier gives the DC we need. On some alternators you can swap out the rectifier pack without replacing the alternator but I am new to Skoda/VAG so I have no idea if that is possible here.

3 minutes ago, varooom said:

Agreed, looks new.

Looks also like someone broke the connection, as you have said.

 

That circuit afaik, is for the 'excitor' or what engages the alternator to make power.

 

I assume you have recently acquired this car?

Yes you're right, I bought it in September. Coolant temp sensor was triggering the engne warning light, but that was replaced and had no other problems, except from this battery/alternator issue.

Can you go back to whom you brought it from, or was it a private sale?

1 minute ago, varooom said:

Can you go back to whom you brought it from, or was it a private sale?

They had a 2 week warranty and they paid for the labour/diagnostics for that issue, but now that timeframe has passed, it's unlikely I can do anything about it to be honest.

*Sorry to clarify, it was a trader and they fixed a separate coolant temp sensor issue that surfaced within the first couple of weeks.

Not sure what Country you're from, but that two week warranty might not be accurate under some laws.

 

26 minutes ago, DIrons said:

They had a 2 week warranty and they paid for the labour/diagnostics for that issue, but now that timeframe has passed, it's unlikely I can do anything about it to be honest.

 

15 minutes ago, varooom said:

Not sure what Country you're from, but that two week warranty might not be accurate under some laws.

See, this why we ask you to at least fill in a nation under "location", is that we can give you better legal/warranty advice if we know what laws apply.

33 minutes ago, varooom said:

Not sure what Country you're from, but that two week warranty might not be accurate under some laws.

I'm based in the UK

Hopefully someone that knows the law better can suggest what protection you might have.

21 minutes ago, DIrons said:

I'm based in the UK

Ok, so UK "Sale of Goods Acts" apply. That means that the item (in this case the car as whole) must be "fit for purpose" and warranted (when sold by a dealer) for a period of 6 months from date of sale; other clauses may extend this.

17 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

Ok, so UK "Sale of Goods Acts" apply. That means that the item (in this case the car as whole) must be "fit for purpose" and warranted (when sold by a dealer) for a period of 6 months from date of sale; other clauses may extend this.

 

Ken, a SIX MONTH warranty on an 18 year old car, have you been drinking?

 

30 days is the statutory minimum and September was three months ago, so...

Would most agree that another alternator would solve the problem? I have a Lucas alternator ready to swap in, I just didn't want to have it fitted just in case it wasn't necessary.

Unless time and water has killed that same lead at the inline socket<>plug on the underside of the engine/gearbox joining point, then yes I'd think that you will need to separate that glued up mess and work out why it is not acting as a good plug<>socket connection.

Edited 18 December, 20223 yr by rum4mo

On my 2005 1.4 BBZ the battery light would stay on after starting until I revved the engine. 
A new alternator sorted it out.