Bloody car now this has gone tits up! And hot weather to boot!

So just how do you change this without ripping the car apart (although thats tempting right now!), have pm a certain someone but anyone else got any advice???

Cheers all.

Dash out is the easiest way, but I suspect your certain person must have a good technique as he can do it with the dash in place!

Chris

Pah dash out.

Step 1.

Remove dash undertray on the drivers side.

Step 2.

Remove the lower footwell vent (one torx screw and a tug)

Step 3.

Remove clutch switch

Step 4.

Unhook CDL ECU and mounting bracket (it slides up and off)

Step 5.

Insert hand upwards (up the right hand side of the heater box). At the top is a two pin plug. Pull this out to the right and the long evap temp sensor will come out with it. Plug in new sensor and re insert.

Step 6.

Rebuild, clear codes with VAG COM.

Step 7.

Enjoy AC once again.

If anyone local to me needs one fitting i'd be more than happy to fit one so we can do a 'how to'.

Your a star Lummox!

Your a star Lummox!

Looks like a trip up the M1 for you my man. Take your camera!! :P

:orb_blow_ to Lummox,

well it took me more like 60mins I was being very carefull! The instructions above where superb and Im only sorry I could not take pictures but digital playing up!

Only came a cropper getting the CDL ECU off, bust the mounting bracket :orb_bonk: so cabled tie that back into place! Oh and getting all the trim back in was a cow especially keeping the pipe on for the drink holder! :orb_rolli But we got there! Few cuts nothing major, 1 burn from putting the arm on the halogen study lamp I was using but other than that not to bad!!!

Definatly a diy job if not in warrenty and yep we need a guide with pictures.... Sorry:O

I'll let you into a secret...

I allways break the bracket aswell

:huep:

Remove dash undertray on the drivers side.

This part of the evaporator switch change has got me.

HOW do you remove the tray, I have renmoved all the screws but it is still in place?

HEEEEEEELP

Cheers

Gary

In that case I dare say you've not removed all the screws.

Have you got the one to the right of the steering wheel roughly behind the wipre stalk? Have you got the one behind the fuse panel cover?

AHHH

So, the cover we are removing is the whole grey front panel?

I thought that maybe the cover by the pedals came off as a seperate unit. I will go back and look.

I am trying to get the unit at the moment as all the dealers I have called are out of stock and there are nojn in the UK supply bank.

I cant wait for the workshop manual to come out and then the rip off skoda dealer can walk.

Ta

G

Check my website under cruise control fitting there is a guide to removing the panel.

If the sensor is a simple switch like a thermostat what about wiring an external switch across it and manually turning this on and off to operate the aircon. Not ideal but a lot easier/cheaper than replacing switch if wiring is easy to access.

This won

The same thing crossed my mind however, I was told that I could ice the sytem up by doing it this way

G

Why bodge it up when you can repair using the guides already given????

I don't understand some people.

I was more thinking of a temporary repair to get me through the current hot weather whilst there is an alleged lack of stock of new sensors in the country.

Is it possible to combine this exchange of sensor with the fix of the dashboard rattle mentioned elsewhere? Whilst facia is apart may be easier to do both jobs. Or are they in 2 separate areas of the dashboard?

Is it possible to combine this exchange of sensor with the fix of the dashboard rattle mentioned elsewhere? Whilst facia is apart may be easier to do both jobs. Or are they in 2 separate areas of the dashboard?

If you do it the Skoda recommended way (full dash out) then you can fix the dash rattle behind the air vents at the same time. If you do it the Lummox way, you leave the bulk of the dash in place and the sensor and rattle are in two separate areas Members have documented how to fix the dash rattle with the dash in place though which might be of some use

Chris

Hi

Just fitted the sensor as per instruction from Lumox. Took 2 hours cos the poxy plug would not come out of the sensor, however that done the rest was easy.

THANK you for your information and saving me 4 hours lab charge at

Pah dash out.

Step 6.

Rebuild' date=' clear codes with VAG COM.

[/quote']

Think I'm going to have a go at this myself, but could you please explain Step 6 - I don't understand what this means!:eek:

Think I'm going to have a go at this myself, but could you please explain Step 6 - I don't understand what this means!:eek:

Put the dash back together, then plug in VAG-COM (diagnostic fault reader) and clear any fault codes logged as a result of the Evaporator Temp Sensor

Chris

Put the dash back together' date=' then plug in VAG-COM (diagnostic fault reader) and clear any fault codes logged as a result of the Evaporator Temp Sensor

Chris[/quote']

Sorry to be a bit dim, but I'm still not much wiser. Do I have to have access to a VAG-COM unit to enable me to repair the temperature sensor? Are these the units that main dealers use during a service?

TIA!

Sorry to be a bit dim, but I'm still not much wiser. Do I have to have access to a VAG-COM unit to enable me to repair the temperature sensor? Are these the units that main dealers use during a service?

You don't need it to repair the sensor, just to clear the fault code. I'm not sure what not clearing the fault codes does ... you may not need to do it... :confused:

And yeah, VAG-COM is a piece of software you can run on a laptop - check out the Diagnostics forum for more details

Chris

THANK you for your information and saving me 4 hours lab charge at

[shameless Plug'] More than enough to cover a Freedom membership then [/shameless Plug]

Beat me to it!!!

Glad to be of service