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Dipped Beam


CosmoJ

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Sincere apologies for bringing this up again but I have lost any earlier responses and cannot through searching find reference to DIPPED headlight illumination.

My main beam is excellent and I note that on my Mk 2 Superb Estate both the halogen and the round lensed thing are on. I don't believe I have the Xenon type headlights? My dipped beams are shocking. Positively dangerous. I remember reading about levelling sensors and the fact that they regulate headlamps but surely if the main beam is beyond expectation levelling input cannot be the problem? I recently visited a garage for their take and they have brought 'shutters' in to the discussion. Aware of and not wanting LED replacements for a number of reasons can someone explain to me how these things work, how and what aspect of the headlamp units the levelling sensors do, e.g. does it affect both dipped and main beams and what of these shutters? Can I overcome the problem by just fitting these Nightbreakers that so many rave about or will I find having fitted them my problem can be attributed to these shutters and or the levelling gubbins? Thank you all in advance.

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As per pab567s post, you have xenon lights. On the mk2 Superb, this means they are bi-xenon with AFS. They use a d1S bulb through a projector lens, with a shutter to control both dipped and main beam, will turn the lights as you corner, and will change the shape of the light beam dependant on your speed and weather conditions. In addition to the D1s bulb, there is a halogen bulb for high beam and flashing the lights.

 

When they're working correctly, they are great at illuminating the road.

 

Do they do the autodance (up down, left right) when they are first turned on?

 

Park about 5m away from a wall with the lights on. Are the beams roughly level with the height of the headlights?

 

Although they last much longer than conventional halogen bulbs, xenon bulbs do output less and less light as they age. Skoda didn't fit particularly brilliant bulbs as stock either.

 

If the lights are working correctly and adjusted correctly, a new set of bulbs will make quite a difference to how much light is output.

Also if you can, whilst changing the bulbs, give the inside of the projector a clean

Edited by softscoop
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Thank you for this. I have not noticed the up and down movement but I will, as suggested try tonight. I have just taken a bulb out. Correct: it's an Osram Xenarc electronic 66140 D1S. Question is, if I change it for a Night Breaker am I guaranteed better dip illumination or could it be the shutter and or levelling system still impairing it?

Edited by CosmoJ
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11 minutes ago, CosmoJ said:

Thank you for this. I have not noticed the up and down movement but I will, as suggested try tonight. I have just taken a bulb out. Correct: it's an Osram Xenarc electronic 66140 D1S. Question is, if I change it for a Night Breaker am I guaranteed a beet dip illumination or could it be the shutter and or levelling system still impairing it?

The shutter is not the issue, as it it either "closed" where it covers half the bulb output and you get the nice sharp cuttoff, and when it full beam, the shutter flips horizontally allowing the full light output to come out.

 

This sounds like your headlight levelling system has gone astray, it happens where the sensor on the axle snaps (or the wire is not sending signal) the dip beam will default to aiming at the floor close to the car.

 

Replace bulbs in pairs, as the light output fades in time (as mentioned by Softscoop)

 

 

Image of the rear sensor, might be an idea to take a look (nearside iirc)

1213002459_RearHeadlightRange.png.81b5d76ae62b1b97b3b79e31af7282a7.png

Edited by varooom
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Thanks again. Before shelling out £130 for bulbs levelling sounds like a sensible starting point. Can I assume that once finding the levelling mechanism I can test whether it's working by moving the mechanical parts (where are they) and once found and not, say, making a difference, then it's a garage job for the electric side of things?

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3 minutes ago, CosmoJ said:

Thanks again. Before shelling out £130 for bulbs levelling sounds like a sensible starting point. Can I assume that once finding the levelling mechanism I can test whether it's working by moving the mechanical parts (where are they) and once found and not, say, making a difference, then it's a garage job for the electric side of things?

I would see if they do the "dance" mentioned by Softscoop, as I am sure if they don't it will show you there's an issue.  We have had a few similar posts where the culprit was the level sensor arm snapped, so it's locked in one position and the car then knows it's out of spec, or it keeps it aimed low as the reading is out of range.

 

The live on rear axle and front axle areas, you should be able to see the rear if you drop down low NS and see if the arm is intact (you won't be able to move of course, unless snapped)

Once you see that one, and how it looks, you can then look at the front.

 

It's a Passat, but the tech is same really

 

 

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Not sure how to respond individually to everyone that has kindky responded so I'll just use the Submit Reply button and say thanks. This is good. I'll check those sensors.

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30 minutes ago, CosmoJ said:

Not sure how to respond individually to everyone that has kindky responded so I'll just use the Submit Reply button and say thanks. This is good. I'll check those sensors.

Right, tested. Nothing with light switch on off as I always park up and no dance on Auto. No warnings. How would I know which sensor to replace assuming all of them (both: 2?) have intact rods?

Edited by CosmoJ
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You will have better luck in the night to get pictures of beams.  So you will need to cover a headlight and take picture, then cover opposite and take a picture, and a final picture of both together when facing a wall.

 

If the ground is level, you can measure the height of the middle of the beam from floor, let's say 45cm, and measure thr distance to wall, and it's 5m, the beam should drop 1cm per metre of distance if it's marked as a 1% on top of headlight.  So the beam should have dropped 5cm, making height on wall of 40cm from floor.

 

The headlights might need recalibration, which needs diagnostic software to put it into learning mode usually.  Could be a wiring fault not seen between sensors and headlights.  Basically several potential things really.

 

Might be best if you can locate a Briskoda member with VCDS or similar that's willing to assist in reading car, and possibly during a dark evening.

 

Try to follow above advice, that @softscoopmentioned originally about a wall, fleshed out above.

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  • 4 weeks later...

hi guys 

 

has this subject been discussed for the octy vrs mk2 ? mine is the 2012 estate version 

 

i like the idea of fitting osram nightbreakers 

 

but which ones ? 

 

any help will be much appreciated 

 

tom 

Edited by promomast
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