Hello. Ive just removed the cylinder head on my 05 mk1 fabia vrs due to having constant pressure in coolant system. I’d just like to know if anyone can point out the issues with the old gasket, head and block face as im not really too sure what im looking at in terms of where the problem of the pressure most likely came from.

 

also, i believe the old gasket a 2 hole? I plan on buying a recon head so it will have been skimmed ect, does this mean i need to buy a 3 hole gasket or will another 2 hole do?

 

cheers

Stick with the same gasket, the thickness is dictated by piston and block height, nothing to do with the head.

Don't worry about where it's blown, make sure you use a quality MLS gasket and upgrade to PD150 head bolts.

Don’t use a recon skimmed head unless the supplier can prove it has been re HIP coated, VAG forbid “reworking” of their Diesel heads. We use new AMC castings.

1 hour ago, Crasher said:

Don’t use a recon skimmed head unless the supplier can prove it has been re HIP coated, VAG forbid “reworking” of their Diesel heads. We use new AMC castings.

What would be the outcome if i was to use a recon head and it hadn’t been HIP coated? Could i get away with cleaning& reusing my old head if its flat? Although i doubt it will be, had the coolant issue for over a year now

1 hour ago, Crasher said:

Don’t use a recon skimmed head unless the supplier can prove it has been re HIP coated, VAG forbid “reworking” of their Diesel heads. We use new AMC castings.

 

I'm not saying that you're wrong, I too have used AMC castings when heads are not reusable but you're being a bit "dramarama" if the issues have been caused by head lift, if the head is straight then a truth lick does no harm and helps adhesion of the new gasket.

You just got here but many of us have seen innumerable PD top ends rebuilt this way down the years with excellent success.

16 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

 

I'm not saying that you're wrong, I too have used AMC castings when heads are not reusable but you're being a bit "dramarama" if the issues have been caused by head lift, if the head is straight then a truth lick does no harm and helps adhesion of the new gasket.

You just got here but many of us have seen innumerable PD top ends rebuilt this way down the years with excellent success.

So can i or cant i use a recon head then?🤣 or should i just start by checking to see if my old head is straight & if so is it just a case of giving it a clean and putting it back on?

7 minutes ago, Thompa021 said:

So can i or cant i use a recon head then?🤣 or should i just start by checking to see if my old head is straight & if so is it just a case of giving it a clean and putting it back on?

Dunno. What I do know is that, if the head is flat, you must have had head lift. You can reuse that head, but it would be advisable to obtain and use a set of PD150 head bolts to prevent recurrence of the lift.

7 minutes ago, Thompa021 said:

So can i or cant i use a recon head then?🤣 or should i just start by checking to see if my old head is straight & if so is it just a case of giving it a clean and putting it back on?

 

The only way to check it's straight is to get a truth skim done, the machine shop will tell you if it's straight or not, if it's straight then it'll be clean and skimmed, ready to bolt back on.

If not they'll tell you you need a new head casting, either way you'll know.

10 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

Dunno. What I do know is that, if the head is flat, you must have had head lift. You can reuse that head, but it would be advisable to obtain and use a set of PD150 head bolts to prevent recurrence of the lift.

 

8 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

 

The only way to check it's straight is to get a truth skim done, the machine shop will tell you if it's straight or not, if it's straight then it'll be clean and skimmed, ready to bolt back on.

If not they'll tell you you need a new head casting, either way you'll know.

Great, thanks for the info!👍🏼

You can tell if it is plane or warped by sighting along a pair of machinists parallel bars like proper old school carpenters would do with winding sticks.

 

Also lapping with machinists blue on a surface plate.

21 minutes ago, J.R. said:

You can tell if it is plane or warped by sighting along a pair of machinists parallel bars like proper old school carpenters would do with winding sticks.

 

Also lapping with machinists blue on a surface plate.

Due to the valves being flat with the face of the head would i have to remove them to do this accurately? Or can i do it with them in place

3 minutes ago, Thompa021 said:

Due to the valves being flat with the face of the head would i have to remove them to do this accurately? Or can i do it with them in place

 

The valves have to come out, you'll notice that the valve seats are sunk below the head surface, it's this that allows a minimal skim.

If you want to check it yourself before bothering the machine shop just lay a steel rule along it, if it rocks or you can see a gap in the middle then it's no bueno and you need a new one. 

26 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

 

The valves have to come out, you'll notice that the valve seats are sunk below the head surface, it's this that allows a minimal skim.

If you want to check it yourself before bothering the machine shop just lay a steel rule along it, if it rocks or you can see a gap in the middle then it's no bueno and you need a new one. 

Brilliant thank you