Crasher

Certainly, post or PM the VIN.

There is no way I would get rid of my 1U5 VRS for a 5E or anything else for that matter, well maybe an Arnarge T but that’s about it!

I tried the repair kit, money down the drain; we only fit genuine new mechs to the DQ200 now.

Helens chilli, awesome.

What is the VIN? I have to admit to being a 1U5 fanatic, I did a full recon on an ASV in a very loved L&K last Xmas and thoroughly enjoyed it even though I lost thousands of £’s doing it.

Did you fit Bilstein B4’s at the back and was the noise there before? Springs for yours are hard to find, which make did you use? Yes Eicach Sportline’s with Koni’s and full Powerflex on 18’s is harsh.

Also standard 4M rear springs are very prone to subtlety snapping at the bottom and clanking their coil together.

Awesome project, I seriously considered converting my 1U VRS to AWD but the chassis work involved put me off. It really needs it though as a stage 2 APR remap alone has it scrabbling for grip. The PQ34 4Motion rear end is prone to damper knocking and we have had great results across all PQ34 cars using the KONI Active. My car has them all round with Eibach springs.

The immobiliser reader coil is the ring around the top of the barrel at the opposite end to the switch. You can’t buy these on their own, they come with a new barrels and to keep your single key operation these are a VIN dependent special order Vehicle Intelligent Part and take about two weeks to come through. However, if you buy a barrel with new unmatched key off the shelf, it is possible to VERY carefully push the reader coil off the new barrel and fit it to the original barrel once you have removed the old one.

The Yuasa 3000 is OK, the 5000 and 9000 are absolutely dire, the 5000 is THE most unreliable battery we have ever fitted, every single one we sold failed. @TonyNew the genuine number for yours is 000 915 105 DE and using TecDoc this cross references to a Yuasa YBX 3027 therefore using the old British Battery Manufactures Association system it is a 027

ALL modern batteries are ****, Varta has gone to the dogs as has Bosch, I have no idea what to recommend, as for the size, I need the VIN.

I have been a VAG mechanic for 42 years, in that time I think I have replaced less than 100 ECU's and most of those have been EDC 16 and 17 Diesel units suffering from water damage BUT there is always a first time. Your car is actually a 2011 model year and the ECU 03C 906 027 CE retails at £1182.60 inc. VAT BUT there is no UK stock and it is likely to go obsolete if ordered.

ECU failure is extremely rare and a new one is not plug and go, start by getting the car somewhere a fault code read can be carried out and post the result.

If the front section includes the cat, we stainless steel weld in a new flexi (known as an iLok) but if it is just a pipe, we fit a standard aftermarket front pipe, unfortunately the choice of quality exhaust parts in the UK is zero.

Mother of Crasher bought a brand new Festa in 1979 to replace the 78 which was falling to bits just out of warranty. These were both Dagenham built 1300S models, all others were Spanish. In early 1981 I started learning to drive, in a Golf 1 1.5 which was like a tank compared to a tin can with the Festa. Later that year I passed and started to use the car to go to college, one day when closing the tailgate the rear window popped out at the bottom as the lower flange had rotted away without a sign externally. It was just 2 years old and the Ford dealer didn’t want to know. We got shot and bought a 1970 Beetle which was immaculate… and then a 1972 which was a bit rusty as post 1970 bugs tended to go. My friend’s mother bought a 1979 Golf 1 and by 1981 when we went to the same college, it had holes in the wings and sills, how times have changed.