Rust concerns

[Johns2315]

Hello. New member here 😊

 

I had the choice of a private owned 2014 Yeti with 91,000 on the clock and serviced each year with recent cambelt change or a 152,000 mile, upgraded model with leather seats etc with full Skoda history and cambelt change and 6 months warranty from a reputable dealer. So I went with the latter as also £850 cheaper due to mileage - although on WeBuyAnyCar the value shows as £2000 less than the 91,000 mile privately sold one. Anyway, it’s done now so I’m stuck with my choice.

 

My question is … how concerned should I be with this rust underneath as the car will be for transporting my daughter on long journeys as well as short and is it worth me getting it MOT’d even though 11 months on the certificate still, just for peace of mind?

 

Thank you!

[J.R.]

Check the sleeve clamp between front & rear exhaust sections, that is usually the first thing to let go, plenty of meat left on the suspension arm and as for surface rust on a mild steelexhaust pipe, well that just shows how far cars have evolved if people find that concerning.

Edited 19 July, 2023 by J.R.

[Johns2315]

If you are saying I’m being a tad dramatic then I welcome that with open arms!! Thank you : )

[Crasher]

All quite normal, minor even

[J.R.]

Another part which is likely to decompose first with the rustworm are the retaining washers that you can see holding on the front exhaust heat shield, the on over my differential is now flapping around.

 

Keep your eye on bits like those and any derusting and surface protection treatment you can do on the wishbones and subframes will not be wasted.

 

I forgot the obvious self composting mild steel components to check, the brake disc backplates that might as well be made of Bacofoil!

[Johns2315]

Thank you for the advice. I’ve noticed a strong chemical smell inside the car. Not sure if it’s what they’ve used to clean the inside as it’s immaculate or if it’s something more sinister.

 

I’ve ran the air con and can’t smell anything. No

obvious leaks in the coolant or drips underneath - hard to tell with the under tray cover. No smells from the exhaust. 

 

When I popped the bonnet after driving an hour and a half the engine seemed really hot but the temperature gauge didn’t go above the middle so probably normal.

[Crasher]

29 minutes ago, Johns2315 said:

When I popped the bonnet after driving an hour and a half the engine seemed really hot but the temperature gauge didn’t go above the middle so probably normal.

 

It was probably was doing a passive regen, if so soon it may ask you to do an active regen, follow the handbook if it does.

[Crasher]

30 minutes ago, Johns2315 said:

but the temperature gauge didn’t go above the middle so probably normal.

 Ignore what VAG temp gauges say, it still reads 90 at 166 and then shoots up at 1117... daft!

[Llanigraham]

My only slight concern looking at those pictures would be with the shock absorbers, but if nothing has been picked up on the MOT I wouldn't worry.

[Johns2315]

52 minutes ago, Crasher said:

 Ignore what VAG temp gauges say, it still reads 90 at 166 and then shoots up at 1117... daft!

Oh … that’s concerning. So how are

we supposed to tell if the engine is overheating?

[Johns2315]

24 minutes ago, Llanigraham said:

My only slight concern looking at those pictures would be with the shock absorbers, but if nothing has been picked up on the MOT I wouldn't worry.

It got picked up on the last two MOT’s as an advisory except the one the dealer had done. Funny how the advisories all clear up when MOT’d by a dealer with a nearby garage.

 

Is it wise to get it MOT’d myself even though 11 months left? Or opening myself up to unnecessary repair bills prematurely?

[J.R.]

Pointless unless you think they got a bent MOT and as you have not uncovered anything dangerous that should have failed an MOT what would be your reasoning for doing so?

 

I would be more concerned about the regen, it is probably just coincidence, they do them regularly enough but some people have bought pups that have been traded on because of constant regens and oil dilution.

 

A VCDS scan should give you an idea of the health of the DPF and its remaining life unless the garage has reset the oil ash value to zero, this is for when the DPF is replaced, if that has been done and the DPF is the original that should ring very loud alarm bells.

 

That said that is exactly the situation with mine because I am a curious fiddler and I am not selling the vehicle.

[Johns2315]

Thanks again for taking time to reply. Not sure if you saw my other post but I can smell a sickly sweet smell and realised it’s coming from the exhaust. Looking online it seems indicative of a leaking head gasket - allowing coolant to mix with fuel. I’m going to try to return it to the dealer tomorrow. 

At least you know what to fiddle with - I haven’t a clue 😂

[TruckbusUK]

8 hours ago, Johns2315 said:

 I’m going to try to return it to the dealer tomorrow. 

At least you know what to fiddle with - I haven’t a clue 😂

Wouldn't bet on that one, they should but the abilities of some dealerships leave a lot to be desired. Apathy/disinterest from the service department on older cars is one of them, thank goodness they are not all the same. 

Good luck😋

[Crasher]

22 hours ago, Johns2315 said:

Oh … that’s concerning. So how are

we supposed to tell if the engine is overheating?

 

When the gauge all of a sudden shoots up to FSD at 117, the alarm goes off and you **** yourself

[Johns2315]

Well it was short lived but I’ve decided not to risk it and was lucky to get a full refund. Back to car shopping …

 

Thanks for all the advice, very kind of you to lend me advice and time : )