I must just have blown the 2nd rotatory light switch. Last time was in the summer of 2016, after I'd left the car with a towel clamped in the driver against the sun which must have dripped onto the switch after a surprise rainstorm.

This time too I had sunblocking "socks" on the front doors (for parking only) when the weather changed and I forgot to remove them. Not as far forward as that towel but I presume water must still have been able to run along the frame and onto the dashboard.

 

I don't recall exactly what the symptoms were back then; now the low beams are turned on as soon as I turn on the car. High beam works too, but no fog lights, and my ageing battery won't appreciate the continuous lights-on.

Turning the switch back and forth makes it clear that it's waterlogged.

 

I've managed to dislodge the switch from its compartment (push the dial *in* when at the 0 position and twiddle a bit, helping from behind with a finger stuck in through the glovebox).

 

Is there any hope that it'll come back to live once dry? Is it safe to just dose the thing with contact spray (maybe even before it's dry), or would that not make a difference?

 

Also, is this a known issue, and does anyone know exactly what the water does? If that device just contains slip contacts it shouldn't be as sensitive, right? Are there other ways the water can get into this switch, via the air-intake below the front window for instance?

 

Strange though that there's no water at all in the glove box below, and the floor mat against the wheel well wasn't soaked either. My car has never been watertight so a good shower always leaves water on the floor, but that's not usually a problem. It looks like I *am* going to figure out a way to put some kind of cover over the switch, or maybe pack the internal part with a plastic bag. Or just always keep a spare...

 

 

In 2016 I also blew an injector shortly after finding the light switch defective. Really hope that's not going to happen again! (Is there a diag function the workshop can check to see if there's an impending failure??)

 

Thanks in advance for any advice!

The switch is relatively cheap (in the UK or on-line from Prague) so why not just replace it?

 

The injector failure is unlikely to be related to a light switch failure.

 

Last time it did cost me almost 70€. A lot cheaper than an injector, sure, but still a sum I'd just as well spend on something else.

Main reason though is this: if this is water related and the thing apparently sits in a location where it isn't as well protected as the designers of the switch would have liked to think it can happen again at any time, never mind the fact that this time it took almost 7 years to failure.

 

I live in a region where front foglights are a welcome extra (frequent fogs and even more frequent wildlife) and it's a legal obligation to have a working rear fog light. So yeah, I'd like to know if there's a way to get a failed switch working again.

 

Didn't mention it, but last time this happened I tried to understand the failure of the old switch, even took it apart. Impossible to tell what was wrong with it (of course I didn't know how it was supposed to behave).

 

Come to think of it, the car was almost exactly 7 years old then. Maybe the switch has that famous itch?

BTW, if you know of a cheap source in the EU I'm interested!

12 hours ago, RJVB said:

BTW, if you know of a cheap source in the EU I'm interested!

Take out your headlight and look at the part number (depends on auto headlights). Enter this info into google and make a search.

prices range from £11 to £34. The latter is a guaranteed genuine part.

 

Here is one example: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291986233110?hash=item43fbbc5716%3Ag%3AL6sAAOSwFTNa1wuh&fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda|Cars+Type%3A1.6+TDI|Plat_Gen%3AMK+II|Cars+Year%3A2009|Model%3AOctavia|Variant%3ADiesel+Hatch|Engine%3A1598cc+77KW+105HP+CAYC|BodyStyle%3AFWD+II+1Z3  

 

 

and a European source (Skoda Parts):

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/headlight-switch-15137/skoda/octavia/octavia-1z3/31590-1-6-tdi

I suppose I can also take out the part itself (already done) and see what its label tells me?

 

That's a lot cheaper than what I paid.

 

When there's a sufficiently long dry spell today I'll check the fuse box behind the driver door for signs of water. But I suppose that blowing the fuse for a fog light will cause a warning message or light on the dashboard?

Well, this is what came up on my scanner:

 

Quote

01800 [0x0708]
Lighting Switch-E1; Light switch-E1; Speed step sensor => - F125 signal too high
Status: Test is inhibited by other DTC, Validated and stored in non volatile memory, Validated fault present at time of request

 

 

Not sure what the "speed step sensor" bit has to do with the light switch?!

 

The one I have installed says

 

Mexico Z1J-1623

1Z0 941 431 J

YYV 1000 9058

 

And has a VW logo as you'd expect given where I got it (the workshop/seller more or less on the grounds of the French VAG import hub) in the neighbouring town.

 

Bummer: now my battery is indeed flat 😞

Googling the problem a bit it does seem that others have searched for waterproof replacement switches (given the suggestions Google made)...

 

Do you get Lidl products in the UK? This booster seems interesting for the price (sadly they don't have the model without compressor in France):

https://www.lidl.fr/p/ultimate-speed-demarreur-avec-compresseur-et-banque-d-alimentation-200-a/p100361665

Yes we get Lidl and Aldi products in the UK but specials are seasonal and sell out fast.

 

One thing to watch is that booster type chargers (and my ALDI charger, say in the small print that the battery should be removed from the car before charging as it can take to battery over 16V during "conditioning".

 

Same here with many of the interesting Lidl DIY products, they have a good reputation for their price so disappear quickly - but as you saw we can order online.

 

I don't suppose they mean "take the battery out when starting the car" too, do they?

I admit I don't really see the point of charging a car battery from this kind of powerbank. Now if it could do that through a cig lighter plug it could be helpful in a case like mine (I park on a sort of public sidewalk in front of the house).

 

I do have a solar trickle charger that's supposed to compensate for the draw of the electronics that have to be always on; without that my battery would probably not have survived this long, esp. not with the lockups  (it's probably the original one).

This reminds me: an Audi SUV owner once told me he couldn't change the battery himself because the vehicle had to remain under tension. Sounds like an urban legend meant to make us pay for even the simplest interventions but suppose it isn't, that doesn't apply to our Octys I hope?

Wow, garage called me yesterday to inform me the ordered the switch - 90€ official VW price! And a 2-week waiting time. The difference with the sums I've seen here (and confirmed online) is crazy... but I didn't want to bruise the good relationship I have with them by having them cancel their order 😞

 

Does anyone know if it's safe to disconnect the switch and then turn on the car - and if that would prevent the lights from going on? I'm going to change my battery using backup power so I don't want to have the almost 200W (I guess) draw of low-beams, parking and rear lights. Or should I just pull the fuses?