Had to replace the crankshaft pulley bolt on my ibiza 6L 1,4 BBY, the one my car came with (from factory) is a 19 mm 12 point with a flat head but the one dealer gave me is 21 mm 12 point with a hollow head?

 

Looking at the repair manual they do mention two different crankshaft pulley bolts with different torque requirements, flat head 90 nm + 90 degrees vs hollow head 150 nm + 180 degree. What's strange is that the manual does state that the same version of crankshaft pulley bolt that the car came with should be used, so why did the dealer give me the new bolt?

Can I use the new bolt without issues or do I play safe and get the original flat head bolt? 150 nm is quite a lot of torque and I don't want to strip something.
 

If you look at the last paragraph it clearly states that you use the old bolt together with the counter hold tool to lock the sprocket in place, you still need to use the new bolt to actually fasten it!

5 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

If you look at the last paragraph it clearly states that you use the old bolt together with the counter hold tool to lock the sprocket in place, you still need to use the new bolt to actually fasten it!

 

What do you mean? The last paragraph just states different torque requirements for the new vs old bolt.

It's certainly true that 150Nm is quite a bit, but it's trying to get the further half turn (180°) that's specified after that that really is hard work and needs long levers.

Not sure you'll get an old variant bolt easily though, not sure what its part number might be.  I suspect it's been superseded by the new variant, so no longer available new genuine.

Aftermarket may be an option though.

 

 

 

 

2 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

It's certainly true that 150Nm is quite a bit, but it's trying to get the further half turn (180°) that's specified after that that really is hard work and needs long levers.

Not sure you'll get an old variant bolt easily though, not sure what its part number might be.  I suspect it's been superseded by the new variant, so no longer available new genuine.

Aftermarket may be an option though.

 

 

 

I did actually email different dealerships to get a price estimate for a cambelt replacement before I decided to just do it myself, they all use the same new bolt with the hollow head and apparently it's the correct one when they type in my car VIN-number. Still strange that the manual recommends using the same version bolt that the car came with. Do you think it's okay to use the new bolt?

I don't recall seeing that instruction in the equivalent workshop manual for Polo or Fabia, will double check n a bit.

I'm sure it will be OK to use the new type, but awkward to do without the car up on a proper overhead lift.

Polo manual says this:

"2.4 Poly V-belt pulley securing bolt tightening procedure

A new securing bolt is being introduced gradually.

Use old form until new type of bolt has been introduced.

Note different torque settings for bolts.

Introduction of new securing bolt ⇒ ETKA (Electronic Parts Catalogue) ."

 

I don't seem to have the Fabia manual, but it's probably amongst what is available here:  

 

13 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Polo manual says this:

"2.4 Poly V-belt pulley securing bolt tightening procedure

A new securing bolt is being introduced gradually.

Use old form until new type of bolt has been introduced.

Note different torque settings for bolts.

Introduction of new securing bolt ⇒ ETKA (Electronic Parts Catalogue) ."

 

I don't seem to have the Fabia manual, but it's probably amongst what is available here:
 

 

I guess my manual is saying "use the newest version of the bolt when replacing" but the wording is bad.

Edited 14 August, 20232 yr by Carproblems

Yeah, that's a good call. Always a risk of 'lost in translation'. 

 

Are you doing the job on the drive?

Do you have a counterhold tool?

2 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Yeah, that's a good call. Always a risk of 'lost in translation'. 

 

Are you doing the job on the drive?

Do you have a counterhold tool?

 

I already replaced the cambelt and waterpump like a week ago (aftermarket kit by SKF, original was outrageously priced), I decided to wait a week and then double-check that the tensioners and everything else looked right since I've never changed a cambelt before and I didn't want to buy new engine mount/crankshaft bolts twice so I reused the old ones for a week. I was surprised to find the 20-year old water pump in immaculate shape, no play or noise whatsoever and the bearings felt smooth exactly like the new one, there was no leak either so it felt like a waste to replace it but I did anyways.

 

I'm doing everything on the ground with regular old jack-stands so getting the torque right is going to be a challenge, I do have a counterhold tool so I should be able to get enough leverage to tighten properly, I will have to use my beam-style torque wrench since I don't have anything else that goes up to 150 nm. The manual does also state on another page to lubricate it (presumably with engine oil or similar) so hopefully that will prevent the bolt from seizing in the future and also make torquing easier.

 

If everything still looks good and is working well, I would say that your best option is to leave it all alone and pat yourself on the back.

 

2 hours ago, Carproblems said:

What do you mean? The last paragraph just states different torque requirements for the new vs old bolt.

 

I took it to mean that there was a threaded hole you could screw the old bolt into to act as a fulcrum for the counter hold tool.

 

I guess it was translated badly from ze German.