Hi guys so i have a skoda fabia elegance 1.4L petrol 2005 with 100k+ miles on the clock.

So the problem i am having is the epc light and engine light keep coming on and sometimes goes into limp mode had the codes read countless times already.

First time we got codes read come up with a intake air leak detected and bank 1 sensor no activity i replaced the bank 1 lamber sensor and could not see air leak cleared codes all was well for couple days.

Then all lights come on again and car goes into limp mode read codes again new ones this time leading to the egr value so replaced that and all had been well for a week till today all the lights come on again no limp mode this time.

Not yet read the codes but since the lights have been coming on i noticed that the throttle body is chattering when i turn the Ignition on i pulled the air box off and you can see the throttle value chattering it had been replaced last year we reset the throttle body with the scan tool and it stops the chattering till the lights come on again.

I am about to lose my mind with this car so far i am about £400 deep into trying to fix the problem.

Thing we have repalced to try and fix the problem new bank 1 lamber sensor a second hand throttle body a new throttle pedal and new egr vaule and a new battery as found out that was dying and could have been the problem.

If anyone has any idea what it could be please let me know.

6 minutes ago, rdp said:

Not yet read the codes

Post them up (the exact numbers) when you have please. 

Also please check the brake servo vacuum hose if you haven't already done so, by eye and fingertip feel at each of the junctions between hard plastic pipe and other items like the non-return valve.

Manual or auto gearbox?

 

Checked all the hoses could not see or feel anything wrong with them also its a manual.

Being careful not to get caught by the auxiliary belt, see if you can put a finger on the port shown arrowed here at the back of the engine, while engine is idling.

Report what you feel on fingertip when that hole is blocked please.

 

 

1 hour ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Being careful not to get caught by the auxiliary belt, see if you can put a finger on the port shown arrowed here at the back of the engine, while engine is idling.

Report what you feel on fingertip when that hole is blocked please.

 

 

Just went and checked this could not feel anything and nothing happend when i blocked the bottom up.

That's how it should be. Was just checking that the PCV valve diaphragm had not ruptured and created a leak.

 

Whereabouts in Suffolk are you?

7 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

That's how it should be. Was just checking that the PCV valve diaphragm had not ruptured and created a leak.

 

Whereabouts in Suffolk are you?

I live in Haverhill

I visit Bury St Edmunds occasionally. If it's still giving trouble next time I'm heading there I'll aim to drop by for a look.

What are you scanning with, or do you have to get a garage to do so at present?

4 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

I visit Bury St Edmunds occasionally. If it's still giving trouble next time I'm heading there I'll aim to drop by for a look.

What are you scanning with, or do you have to get a garage to do so at present?

The father in law is a retired mechanic so his been trying to work it out and reading the codes his uses two different scan tools one i think is something like vcds or somthing like that.

Even he is starting to get fed up trying to work out what it can now be and running out of ideas.

VCDS is ideal, let us know when the latest codes are read.

Is there any chance that the fuel filter has been incorrectly replaced with a 4-bar rated one sometime? You should be able to see the pressure rating stamped into the rear end of the filter housing, just in front of the rear right wheel, inboard of the sill.

 

6 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

VCDS is ideal, let us know when the latest codes are read.

Is there any chance that the fuel filter has been incorrectly replaced with a 4-bar rated one sometime? You should be able to see the pressure rating stamped into the rear end of the filter housing, just in front of the rear right wheel, inboard of the sill.

 

I know it had been replaced by the last owner as it belonged to the father in law so i would say its more than likely the right one but unsure where it is.

16 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

just in front of the rear right wheel, inboard of the sill.

View from outside car.

ECP suggested the wrong rating to another member based on his reg, so well worth a look.

If you see 4 bar on it, please message me with your VIN so I can double-check the correct rating.

Edited 4 October, 20232 yr by Breezy_Pete

So i have had the codes read again and they have come up with somthing different this time than what we had been getting before.

He also check the engine while it was running and said it was misfiring at about 13 or 14 per cycle as far as i know the plugs had been changed not so long ago.

Here is a photo of the codes that have come up this time.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17550/P1142/004418

 

Leaking vacuum hoses almost a certainty.

 

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17584/P1176/004470

 

Confirmation.

1 minute ago, sepulchrave said:

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17550/P1142/004418

 

Leaking vacuum hoses almost a certainty.

 

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17584/P1176/004470

 

Confirmation.

Had the hoses checked and he sprayed some stuff around the engine to see if the engine was sucking in air but could not find anything.

1 hour ago, rdp said:

Had the hoses checked and he sprayed some stuff around the engine to see if the engine was sucking in air but could not find anything.

 

I'm sorry but he's missed something, the car is 18 years old and unless ALL those hoses have been replaced, there WILL be splits by now.

2 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

 

I'm sorry but he's missed something, the car is 18 years old and unless ALL those hoses have been replaced, there WILL be splits by now.

Most of them have been replaced we have had 2 other mechanics look before this fault and they could not find any air leaks either the last mechanic that found these faults is one of the best we have here and is normally always fully booked for weeks in advance as everyone trusts him over every other garage we have here.

He was also the one that found the misfires the other 2 before him did not i have even checked a few times going over every single hose i could find inch by inch and found no splits cracks or lose fittings.

Update:

Still having epc and engine light problems but the codes have now changed did find a crack in the flex pipe on the exhaust that has now been changed.

Its now come up with a new code a permanent one code 17989 Throttle Actuator : Basic Setting Not Performed it does say something about bank 1 but cannot seem to find out what that means when i look up the code it does not say anything about bank 1.

The throttle body is very clean and we did a Throttle Body Alignment two or three times but as soon as you turn the key and send power to the throttle it just starts rattling for few seconds and dont fix the problem.

So i am now down to thinking about buying a new throttle body.

If anyone has any ideas please let me know really dont want to spend out on a new throttle body if thats not the problem.

Bank 1 just means the engine, you only get a bank 2 on a Vee engine.

 

There are plenty of cheap secondhand throttle bodies on eBay because they don't go wrong often, no need to buy new.

1 hour ago, sepulchrave said:

Bank 1 just means the engine, you only get a bank 2 on a Vee engine.

 

There are plenty of cheap secondhand throttle bodies on eBay because they don't go wrong often, no need to buy new.

The throttle body is only about a year or 2 old and it was brought from ebay and was around the £30-£40 mark new as i was told.

29 minutes ago, rdp said:

The throttle body is only about a year or 2 old and it was brought from ebay and was around the £30-£40 mark new as i was told.

 

That's far too cheap for new, buy a secondhand genuine one, that cheap new one has obviously gone wrong already.

25 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

 

That's far too cheap for new, buy a secondhand genuine one, that cheap new one has obviously gone wrong already.

So you reckon its the throttle body that has gone bad.

I checked with my local parts dealer they can get one for £120 does that sound about right for one

Judge for yourself:

 

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17989/P1581/005505

 

There really isn't much else it can be.

Just now, sepulchrave said:

Judge for yourself:

 

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17989/P1581/005505

 

There really isn't much else it can be.

whats the Check Measuring Value Block (MVB) 060-064 thats the only thing on the list i have not checked as i didnt know what it was.

Thanks for the help.

When you were attempting the throttle body alignment did you ensure that all pre-conditions were met? All engine ECU fault codes cleared,  11.5V minimum battery voltage with ignition on, etc, as described on the Ross-tech page. 

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Throttle_Body_Alignment_(TBA)