2010 Yeti: Ignition Jammed, now the car won't start.

[gromr123]

Yesterday I went to start my Yeti, and the key didn't want to turn in the ignition, there was quite a bit of resistance. I gave it a bit more force and the key turned, and the car started. However, now the key wouldn't turn back, meaning the car wouldn't turn off. It felt like if I forced the key, it would snap.

It's a Manual 170 4x4, so I stalled the car in gear to turn the cut the engine and called the AA.

 

The AA guy said that the ignition barrel was broken and needed replacement. I was quote £300 for a new one.

 

I decided to give it a crack myself as it seems it's pretty common and plenty of replacement parts and guides out there.

 

I removed the steering wheel, airbag, the stalks and then the barrel. I used a chisel to loosen the anti-tamper bolts and dropped down the barrel. Then used a little bit of a metal to release the locking cylinder from the barrel, which allowed me to finally remove the key.

Then I drilled out the little metal cover on the barrel which allowed me to fully disassemble the barrel. I reassembled it all again, and now the key turns properly.

 

Now I'm not sure if it's 'fixed', but the mechanical movement of the barrel seems to be working again now. However after re-assembling the entire barrel and steering wheel assembly, the car won't start.

 

Ignition turns on and off as expected, but I get a 'ESP: error' and when I try and start the engine, nothing happens and the dials just turn off.

 

I checked the battery voltage and it seemed a little low, so I charged the battery and now it's fully charged an on 12.8V. However no change.

 

 

I do have a aftermarket barrel on order, which should be here in a day or so, so I'll try that soon.

 

Is there any other reason I would be getting this error?

 

Could it be an imobiliser problem with the key transponder?

 

 

 

 

[Warrior193]

Hello, welcome to the forum. Can you confirm whether the engine cranks-over on the starter motor when you turn the key?

[gromr123]

Hi and thank you! Nah absolutely nothing happens, no sound, no clicking of solenoids. Leading me to think it's more of a immobilser issue as the car isn't even trying to start.

[Warrior193]

Unlikely to be the immobiliser - fault is more likely to be a faulty connection on the key switch.  AFAIK, engine will crank (but not fire) if immobiliser chip incorrect or faulty. 

[gromr123]

That would make the most sense, especially as I've had it all apart. It's certainly possible that the switch hasn't be put back together right, or is simply just broken.

Hopefully the new barrel will solve it.

[gromr123]

All fixed. The ignition switch it self appeared like it wasn't clocked in the right position, so wasn't sending a signal. Reset it, checked it with a multi-meter, and re-assembled and car now starts!

 

ESP light has gone now too, I think that occurs when you disconnect the battery and it goes off after about 100 yards.

[oldstan]

Got to admit I admire your tenacity.  I used to have a bit of a fiddle in the days of Anglia and Morris 1100s when you could get away with tinkering whilst not knowing exactly what you were doing ... but not now.

 

Well done you.

[eribaMotters]

Getting back to the original post. I had a similar problem some years ago with a VW Touran. I called my recovery breakdown company who duly turned up and used a can of compressed air to clean out the lock. The mechanic said it was not uncommon for the barrel to get gummed up with dust and crud. This had been carried into the lock barrel on the key. It had been picked up from what was in your jacket, trousers pocket.

 

Colin

[gromr123]

Slight update on this. The Amazon special ignition I bought on Prime is starting to play up. When you remove the key the ignition doesn't actually click off without having to twiddle the end of the ignition barrel.

 

Figured I'd just bought a cheap nasty aftermarket barrel, so I've bought a used ignition from a Skoda breaker that is much much smoother than the junk tier one I bought. 

 

However there is one slight difference, it appears to have an extra solenoid on it.

 

From some Googling it appears it's from an automatic car and is to stop the key being removed until the car is in park.

 

However my car being a manual I guess I can just leave it disconnected and it will not cause any issues? Could remove it completely too.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[oldstan]

Roughly how much would it have been to have had an auto electrician or a reputable garage replace the part with a proper, approved one in the first place?  Was the £300 figure  about the going price?

 

I'm not sure it was such a good idea to have got (a) a sub standard part in the first instance, and then (b) the wrong part from an ebay seller ..... and done the job yourself - as opposed to paying more and getting it done properly in the first place and saved all the inconvenience (plus if the steering wheel lock were to jam whilst you were driving it then anything could happen).

[J.R.]

I bet you are great fun at partys!

17 minutes ago, oldstan said:

(plus if the steering wheel lock were to jam whilst you were driving it then anything could happen).

 

In your dreams!

[oldstan]

And I bet you're the bloke who everyone gathers round so you can put them straight with your vast knowledge and charming wit.

 

I wasn't rude to the OP and asked a genuine question - and try not to be in my content. 

 

You, on the other hand ........................

[gromr123]

Still would have been more than I've spent so far, by quite a margin. 

 

I'm an engineer, so tinkering and fixing is what I do, I don't mind getting my hands dirty, fixing it and learning from mistakes. 

 

The Amazon one got me out the woods as I could get it next day, meant I could drive to work the next day. However long term it's clearly not a viable solution. 

[oldstan]

Right you are. Understood.

And thanks for the civil and polite reasoning.

[gromr123]

New Barrel in, and it works a treat. Was testing the chinese one on the bench and sure enough it doesn't re-engage the lock when you remove the key. Something in the mechanism is sticky, you have to give it a bit of a wack before it clicks off.

 

The proper VAG ignition barrel is a much higher quality part, it's night and day.

 

Moral of the story here is that cheaping on some parts often doesn't pay off.