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URGENT- yeti instrument cluster wireing

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Hello, I have a 2011 yeti which has a fault with the immobaliser, have taken apart the instrument cluster as garage said it was to do with that however they couldn’t fix it (recomended to scrap it) if anyone knows what I’m looking at would be a great help. I have a multi meter which I have been testing pins from the plug with however I don’t know what is what 

 

any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

You need to rephrase your question, only you know what you are looking at.

 

Is your question "does anyone know what I should be looking for?"? And is that in respect to the instrument cluster?

 

If so the answer will likely be dry joints on the soldering of the main connector but others may confirm whether that afflicts Yetis as it does other vehicles.

@TobyhhWelcome.

It is an Auto Electrician you need not the garage you visited.   I bet they would like to buy for much cheapness your Yeti that is just fit for scrapping.

 

So the immobiliser is faulty, not the key, and now someone has to deal with what has been done by you or you and the garage

Edited by Rooted

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Pins 7 and 8 of the 32-way connection, grey/red and grey/white wires. D2 is the immobiliser pick-up coil around the ignition lock, J362 is the immobiliser control unit within - K - the instrument cluster electronic board.

 

Screenshot 2023-11-10 09.15.56.png

3 hours ago, Rooted said:

So the immobiliser is faulty, not the key

 

I would not make that assumption, it could well be as simple as the key, the OP does not appear to know about the system, the garage certainly don't and I expect as is often the case he is repeating their gospel so we really have nothing to go on at present to make assumptions, or was perhaps your statement actually a question?

 

If this goes the way of many 1st time contributors hoping to resolve a problem it will take a lot of effort to persuade them to communicate relevant information like what was the actual problem, how did it manifest etc. Simply saying or more likely repeating "it has a fault with the immobiliser" and "what am I looking at?" is not going to elicit a solution to a problem that has not been explained or described.

That was said tongue firmly in cheek from me about the key not being the issue.

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4 hours ago, Rooted said:

@TobyhhWelcome.

It is an Auto Electrician you need not the garage you visited.   I bet they would like to buy for much cheapness your Yeti that is just fit for scrapping.

 

So the immobiliser is faulty, not the key, and now someone has to deal with what has been done by you or you and the garage

Was a friend of mine that took it to the garage. I have removed the instrument cluster to check for dry solder joints however I am not sure which pins I should check. All of what I have done can easily be reversed 

thanks for your reply!

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4 hours ago, J.R. said:

You need to rephrase your question, only you know what you are looking at.

 

Is your question "does anyone know what I should be looking for?"? And is that in respect to the instrument cluster?

 

If so the answer will likely be dry joints on the soldering of the main connector but others may confirm whether that afflicts Yetis as it does other vehicles.

Understood. More specifically I was looking for what the pins on the connector are. Ehich has been answered. As for how the problem came to be, I don’t know I was given the car with the problem 

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4 hours ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Pins 7 and 8 of the 32-way connection, grey/red and grey/white wires. D2 is the immobiliser pick-up coil around the ignition lock, J362 is the immobiliser control unit within - K - the instrument cluster electronic board.

 

Screenshot 2023-11-10 09.15.56.png

Thank you, much appreciated 

34 minutes ago, Tobyhh said:

Was a friend of mine that took it to the garage. I have removed the instrument cluster to check for dry solder joints however I am not sure which pins I should check. All of what I have done can easily be reversed

The owner is fortunate to have you! 👍

Does the vehicle fire up for one or two seconds and then die?

 

That is the textbook symptom of a faulty immobiliser or non recognised key.

  • 4 months later...
  • Author
On 10/11/2023 at 13:55, J.R. said:

Does the vehicle fire up for one or two seconds and then die?

 

That is the textbook symptom of a faulty immobiliser or non recognised key.

correct, this is what happens. I have read in other threads that intermittent starting and an issue similar can be fixed by simply replacing the fuel pump relay, would this have an effect on the immobalisor?  

 

and making an assumption here but do you believe that a garage would not have checked that it was not just an issue with the key? maybe i am being bold to assume.

 

I bought a highline cluster for £50 on ebay and spent another £50 having it coded to the car and the keys. 

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39 minutes ago, b1ackb1rd said:

I bought a highline cluster for £50 on ebay and spent another £50 having it coded to the car and the keys. 

did you have the same issue as me? and i assume this resolved it,

thanks. 

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4 minutes ago, Tobyhh said:

did you have the same issue as me? and i assume this resolved it,

thanks. 

sorry, and where did you purchase your new cluster from?

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26 minutes ago, Tobyhh said:

sorry, and where did you purchase your new cluster from?

my bad, just saw that it was on ebay, another question though: where did you get it coded, is this a sort of local garage job or would it have to be a speciallist 

Before throwing money at parts bingo I suggest you invest in VCDS and see exactly why the ECU is preventing an engine start.

 

It sounds like the car does not stand you in any money so it will be a very good investment

You could ask on the VCDS forum if anyone is close to your location who could assist with a scan of the car.

 

My cluster experience was a retrofit upgrade, but if you have an issue with a cluster it's easier to simply get another used version and get it coded to the car - the keys get recoded as part of the process. 

 

You'll need to make a note of the cluster part number. 

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i have an obd2 diagnostic tool on its way now, as i will need it for multiple cars not just VAG cars. do you think this will be sufficent?

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