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Change oil in rear differential

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The cynic in me doubts that the people with all the gear and no idea will be capable of or interested in re-aligning the front and quite possibly the rear subframes, they just seem interested in twiddling a few nuts and producing computer print outs.

 

The garage should be capable of putting the subframe back in the same position it was removed either by using the service tools or common sense, I would be very worried that they want you to take it elsewhere.

 

I did not need a Hunter rig to measure and correct the misalignment between my front and rear axles and the vehicle body, just a bit of DIY to attach a laser spirit level to the wheel rims and a cardboard target fitted at the B post and held in place by the closed door.

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  • It wont make any difference at all unless you have stupidly run the diff dry like I did by mixing up the Haldex and differential drain plugs, in which case the diff will need all the help it can get a

  • An analogy would be to compare the rear diff with the front diff on a FWD car which does not even use differential oil and shares the gearbox oil, that diff transmits 100% of the drive torque 100% of

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40 minutes ago, J.R. said:

The cynic in me doubts that the people with all the gear and no idea will be capable of or interested in re-aligning the front and quite possibly the rear subframes, they just seem interested in twiddling a few nuts and producing computer print outs.

 

The garage should be capable of putting the subframe back in the same position it was removed either by using the service tools or common sense, I would be very worried that they want you to take it elsewhere.

 

I did not need a Hunter rig to measure and correct the misalignment between my front and rear axles and the vehicle body, just a bit of DIY to attach a laser spirit level to the wheel rims and a cardboard target fitted at the B post and held in place by the closed door.

 

Adjust as required* autocomplete on phone put an "and" and i dont proof read...my fault!

 

You can be cynical and that is completely your choice and I won't knock you for that at all, I can be the same in the civils game. 

 

However on this one I'll play the logical card on this one and use my head and not my feelings/attitude.

 

Better to be professional than sorry on this one for me personally. 

 

And they've at least had the professionalism that they want it checked straight after their finished and said they didn't have the gear to quality control.

 

To my mind they had the honesty and integrity to say that openly as well!  Rather than being an all the gear/no idea big mouth spouting company/person that says they can do it with their eyes closed...Those that boast like that always entertain me, as they could make a fortune selling their services and putting these automated control mechanisms and their manufacturers out of business overnight, even imparting their wisdom 🤣🤣🤣

 

These guys are good and work on a lot of our local/regional racing/rally teams and don't mess about and I never have been by them when I've had some issues with 4x4 previously.  Neither have they on my friends track day cars and they even work with 2 of my friend's racing BMWs when they need alignment checks after nudge/falling off the track etc...🤣🤣🤣

 

They genuinely know their stuff and don't charge a rip off price to do it and have 2 bays permanently set up for 4 wheel hunter alignment with the demand they get run through in our area...That says a lot that a lot of people value their opinion and the great reputation that they have and strive to maintain.

 

I'd say the indy garage is doing belt and braces for their own reputation/quality control and I'd never knock anyone for it and they're prepared to pay for that check at my choice of location...why should I knock them for that???  That seems very short sighted to not do your due diligence professionally?

 

You may be highly skilled to not need a Hunter rig...being a civil engineering surveyor I could literally use a water level to control a TBM at a heading but why would I chose to use tools that risk inaccuracy and introduce errors when I could use a gyroscopic/laser line control system instead to make the job more easier/accurate/efficient and control quality, much like the Hunter system will do in this case 🤷🏻‍♂️🤷🏻‍♂️🤷🏻‍♂️

 

I could run it another hour down the road to my friend's workshop to cross check the indy's work but by then 2 hours travelling time (round trip) taking over his bay for that time in case there was problems that needed doing there and then and his help, which I'd feel obliged to recompense him for, me actual doing the check itself, just wouldn't be productive in terms of my time and my own hourly rates...That would be extremely stupid to let my arrogance get out of control and do that!

 

When I can ride 20 minutes down the road get the check done and then most probably drive out with zero issues or maybe a very slight tweak.

 

As I doubt the car is perfectly aligned with the pot holes round here and I haven't had the 4 wheel alignment checked for at least 14 months, since a very large pothole caused a blowout on the way back from work at 0200.

 

G

Edited by G1980
Proof read and hopefully corrected all the spelling errors this time

  • 2 weeks later...
On 03/01/2024 at 18:53, rbhelle said:

2011 Superb, 4x4 haldex 4, DSG DQ 250

Rear diff oil:  For endurance, I use G052 911 (wich is 75W-90 API GL-5). It is marginally thicker, but gives more lubrication. 

 

 

Hello, 2016 Superb3 4x4haldex5, DQ250

 

can i use for both front and rear diffs 75W90 GL5 ?

 

can i use

MANNOL Extra Gear oil 75W-90 GL-4 / GL-5 LS

or

MANNOL Basic Plus 75W-90 GL-4+

 

thanks

 

  • Author
6 hours ago, dilino said:

 

Hello, 2016 Superb3 4x4haldex5, DQ250

 

can i use for both front and rear diffs 75W90 GL5 ?

 

can i use

MANNOL Extra Gear oil 75W-90 GL-4 / GL-5 LS

or

MANNOL Basic Plus 75W-90 GL-4+

 

thanks

 

GL5 75w90 works fine. Same as I use.

  • 3 weeks later...
On 23/08/2024 at 11:53, rbhelle said:

I use and pay for subscription to www.partslink24.com.

This is in fact original deales parts database as long as you have the VIN number of your car. Especially VW, Audi, Skoda cars is very easy for me to find the exact original oe partnumber to use as a search in autodoc. Always get the correct part from them.

Hey @rbhelle

 

How you doing!

 

Just wondering about this link below is it worth the £13.20 One Day access for checking all my parts schedule is correct, as you said it does the check by VIN, which I have!

Before I confirm the basket

 and commit to the order 🤔🤔🤔😟😟😟

 

Thanks G

  • Author
2 hours ago, G1980 said:

Hey @rbhelle

 

How you doing!

 

Just wondering about this link below is it worth the £13.20 One Day access for checking all my parts schedule is correct, as you said it does the check by VIN, which I have!

Before I confirm the basket

 and commit to the order 🤔🤔🤔😟😟😟

 

Thanks G

Well, yeah it is worth it, but maybe not for one specific part. I guess you can get that from dealer. But if you plan do do more and diy in the future, it is very well worth it. Its pricy for only 1 part....

  • Author

@G1980 But what part do you need to check out? Maybe I can log in and check for you if your vin will work...Partslink for me is for norwegian cars, never tried foreign..but worth a shot

1 minute ago, rbhelle said:

@G1980 But what part do you need to check out? Maybe I can log in and check for you if your vin will work...Partslink for me is for norwegian cars, never tried foreign..but worth a shot

Waiting for 2 companies to come back about bolt kits being supplied with the LUK Flywheel or whether I have to procure them separately.

 

I'm also looking for bits to do with trims etc as the car has just been resprayed and some 10 year fixtures did not survive removal during preparation works and there's some I want to replace for aesthetic reasons...

 

G

  • Author
Just now, G1980 said:

Waiting for 2 companies to come back about bolt kits being supplied with the LUK Flywheel or whether I have to procure them separately.

 

I'm also looking for bits to do with trims etc as the car has just been resprayed and some 10 year fixtures did not survive removal during preparation works and there's some I want to replace for aesthetic reasons...

 

G

Hmm, I do believe that LuK flywheel bolts are included in set, but yes, good to verify. Trims are nice to check in partslink. But also, when you have access. Make sure to write down all servicable partnumbers for future use. Can come in handy. Utilize maximum out of the days access!

4 minutes ago, rbhelle said:

@G1980 But what part do you need to check out? Maybe I can log in and check for you if your vin will work...Partslink for me is for norwegian cars, never tried foreign..but worth a shot

"Disney" realise it was for Norwegian market...Don't have a dealership close to me nor any that I have a good "relationship" with, like i did with Mitsubishi!

8 minutes ago, rbhelle said:

@G1980 But what part do you need to check out? Maybe I can log in and check for you if your vin will work...Partslink for me is for norwegian cars, never tried foreign..but worth a shot

I'll send you a PM with my VIN just to see if it works out of curiosity!

  • Author
1 hour ago, G1980 said:

I'll send you a PM with my VIN just to see if it works out of curiosity!

It worked, have your car VIN in partslink24.com. All parts... 🙂

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