Dashcam fitting - Switched Live Fuse?

[olivermooro]

I’m after some help with installing my Dashcam. I’ve noted the FitcamX which looks like a great bit of kit for a properly integrated setup, but for my situation, I’m attempting to reuse the Garmin Dashcam Mini that i had from my 2019 Octavia vRS and make it work in my new Enyaq Coupe. 
 

I have mounted the camera, routed the cable, fixed the earth under a suitable nut and just have the final task of using the piggyback fuse tap. 
This is where I’m struggling - I have been able to get the camera working, but seemingly only with a permanent live. I could stick with that, but if I go on holiday, don’t want to drain the 12v battery and my particular Dashcam isn’t designed to fire up when it detects a bump from another car. 
 

Can anyone advise how to properly turn the car off (but obviously all the doors to be open), so I can use a voltmeter to check the contacts? 
 

I’ve attached a photo from the manual and also my fuse setup. Plenty of unused slots for me, but my existing piggyback fuse size is the larger fuse type -slots numbered 2-11 and 24-34 on the fuse diagram. 
I’ve tried the vertical Fuse 52, which I have read is for the boot 12v socket (perfect!) and that you can mount that in one of two positions to either have permanent live or switched live, but for me, neither position gives power to the camera. 

I’m pretty confident that my cable/wiring is fine, as I can get the camera working, but only so far with fuse slots that appear to be permanent live. 

Any solutions or suggestions are warmly appreciated. 

[olivermooro]

Thought I’d update my post as I didn’t have any replies, but managed to find the solution myself. 
Using a multimeter was certainly a challenge, as I couldn’t find a way to turn the Enyaq off completely… it involves unlocking it and then keeping the keys far away from the car for 30+ mins while the car eventually times out. 
 

For a ‘switched live’, I had to scrap the ‘standard’ size fuses and go for one of the bank of 4 ‘mini’ blade fuses on the right of the fuse box. See the circled one that I’ve used - it’s for the rear USB port, so nothing fundamental and slot 58 as labelled in the manual. 
 

see photos for reference and hope this helps someone in future. 
 

[Houndog6105]

Hi Oliver

I came across your post as I'm searching which fuses i can use to hardwire a dash cam to my skoda enyaq coupe. 

 

I'll be honest I'm not very clued up when it comes to this but i know that i need a fuse for the red wire (acc power for dash cam to power on and off) of my hardwire kit and the yellow wire (always powered on for parking mode) 

 

After looking at a few other posts it sounds like people use fuse 66 (rear wiper) for the red wire but I'm not sure which fuse to use for the yellow wire 

 

In my manual fuse 58 is for USB at the rear on my enyaq coupe 

 

Could you advise which fuse numbers is best for me to use for the hardwire kit please and also how do i use a piggyback fuse because I'm not sure how I'd connect the wire from the piggyback to my fuses on the hardwire kit you see

 

I'd appreciate any help you can give me

 

Thanks 

Steve

 

My hardwire kit 

 

[Houndog6105]

Hi Oliver

I came across your post as I'm searching which fuses i can use to hardwire a dash cam to my skoda enyaq coupe. 

 

I'll be honest I'm not very clued up when it comes to this but i know that i need a fuse for the red wire (acc power for dash cam to power on and off) of my hardwire kit and the yellow wire (always powered on for parking mode) 

 

After looking at a few other posts it sounds like people use fuse 66 (rear wiper) for the red wire but I'm not sure which fuse to use for the yellow wire 

 

In my manual fuse 58 is for USB at the rear on my enyaq coupe 

 

Could you advise which fuse numbers is best for me to use for the hardwire kit please and also how do i use a piggyback fuse because I'm not sure how I'd connect the wire from the piggyback to my fuses on the hardwire kit you see

 

I'd appreciate any help you can give me

 

Thanks 

Steve

 

Please find attached My hardwire kit and picture of inside my fuse box

 

Edited 27 March by Houndog6105

[olivermooro]

Hey Steve, 

 

Happy to help where I can. First concern is the hardwire kit - are those piggyback connectors? I don’t see anywhere on those fuse prongs where you would insert 2 fuses - thus converting a single socket into a dual socket? 
 

If you do have the piggyback connectors, what size are they? They look pretty small to me, so that’s your issue with using Fuse 66 - that’s a larger regular fuse size, but what you have look like the ‘mini’ size to me.
If so, then I’ve scribbled on the below photos - in the colours of your kit. Fuse 58 in red for your red switched live, Fuse 21 should do the trick for your Yellow permanent live.
Neither of those slots are fundamental safety issues to piggyback from.
 

If you don’t have piggyback connectors, then it’s a case of finding spare unused slots on the fuse board.
 

From my experience with a multimeter in hand, the bank of mini fuses from Fuse 15 to 24 and then 38 to 49 are permanent live. (for your yellow wire). 
Then it’s the right column for switched live, fuses 53 to 64. 
 

Hoping something in that helps you out. Not sure what kind of a hardwire kit you have, but that might be something to consider changing if you need the piggyback connectors.  

[Houndog6105]

23 minutes ago, olivermooro said:

Hey Steve, 

 

Happy to help where I can. First concern is the hardwire kit - are those piggyback connectors? I don’t see anywhere on those fuse prongs where you would insert 2 fuses - thus converting a single socket into a dual socket? 
 

If you do have the piggyback connectors, what size are they? They look pretty small to me, so that’s your issue with using Fuse 66 - that’s a larger regular fuse size, but what you have look like the ‘mini’ size to me.
If so, then I’ve scribbled on the below photos - in the colours of your kit. Fuse 58 in red for your red switched live, Fuse 21 should do the trick for your Yellow permanent live.
Neither of those slots are fundamental safety issues to piggyback from.
 

If you don’t have piggyback connectors, then it’s a case of finding spare unused slots on the fuse board.
 

From my experience with a multimeter in hand, the bank of mini fuses from Fuse 15 to 24 and then 38 to 49 are permanent live. (for your yellow wire). 
Then it’s the right column for switched live, fuses 53 to 64. 
 

Hoping something in that helps you out. Not sure what kind of a hardwire kit you have, but that might be something to consider changing if you need the piggyback connectors.  

Thankyou for getting back to me

 

It's no piggyback connectors unfortunately. This is what the supplier of the dashcam sent me you see

 

So am i right in saying, remove fuse 21 for the yellow wire and remove fuse 58 for the red wire and that should be good yes? And i won't need to buy any piggyback connectors? 

 

All that information is a huge help by the way and i do really appreciate you taking out the time to reply to me

Edited 27 March by Houndog6105

[Houndog6105]

Can i just ask can the empty fuse sockets not be used so for example instead of using fuse 21 and 58 which already have fuses in 

 

Can i not just use say fuse slot number 16 for yellow wire and fuse slot 53 for red wire

[olivermooro]

Steve - if you haven’t got a kit with piggyback connectors, don’t start removing fuse 21 or 58 as those functions won’t work in your Enyaq and you’ll have all sorts of bings and warnings come up on your dashboard when you turn on. 

With the kit you have, you’ve got to find empty fuse slots on your board as you suggest and ideally use a voltmeter / multimeter to test the contacts to see if you’re getting 12V. As you say, empty slots 16 and 53 could be ones to try. 
 

Good luck - if the spare fuse slots are not live, then ordering piggyback connectors and a couple of fuses should only be about £5 including postage. 

[Houndog6105]

58 minutes ago, olivermooro said:

Steve - if you haven’t got a kit with piggyback connectors, don’t start removing fuse 21 or 58 as those functions won’t work in your Enyaq and you’ll have all sorts of bings and warnings come up on your dashboard when you turn on. 

With the kit you have, you’ve got to find empty fuse slots on your board as you suggest and ideally use a voltmeter / multimeter to test the contacts to see if you’re getting 12V. As you say, empty slots 16 and 53 could be ones to try. 
 

Good luck - if the spare fuse slots are not live, then ordering piggyback connectors and a couple of fuses should only be about £5 including postage. 

Thank god i didn't remove them fuses then 😂

 

You couldn't recommend piggyback connectors and fuses that would work for me could you please? 

 

I really don't know which size to get or anything you see

 

Do you think it's best trying that way before trying the empty slots first? 

 

Would it mean maybe purchasing a different hard wire kit even? I don't mind doing that, whatever is easiest really 

 

I have a Euki dashcam and it has a USB type C connection to it

 

Thanks again 🙂

[Houndog6105]

I will show you my dash cam and hardwire kit just to give you a better idea of what i have 

 

 

[Houndog6105]

Edited 28 March by Houndog6105

[Houndog6105]

Euki support are telling me to piggyback off these fuses

 

 

[Houndog6105]

I've purchased a multimeter and hopefully i can just plug the hardwire kit after testing the empty sockets for the 12v. Looks like i will have to use the mini fuses. Here's what I'm going to try

 

Fuse number 48 is spare and in the manual it says its rear USB. I'll try this for the red wire

 

Yellow wire I'm trying fuses 15,16,23,24 and 49 to see if i get power off any of them spare sockets while power is off 🙏 

 

I think you said to leave the car unlocked and keep keys far away from car for 30+mins didn't you to get the power off for testing with the multimeter? 

 

Can i ask why did you plug switched red wire into fuse 58 which already had a fuse in? Why didn't you use any of the empty sockets? 

Edited 28 March by Houndog6105

[olivermooro]

Hi Steve. 
Think you’re well on the way now, great stuff! 
 

I didn’t bother with trying empty fuse bays as I was reusing a hardwire kit from my previous lease car, so had the piggyback connectors already in place. 
 

Hope you find some empty slots that have power, otherwise it’s plan B and ordering piggyback connectors. 
 

Yes - turning the system off is a pain compared to the good old fashioned turning a key in the ignition. As you suggest, open the passenger door on a non rainy day, move the keys away and leave it for a while until it powers down. 
 

[MickyD44]

I have wired my Nextbase 522 into the rear wiper fuse 66. It's a circuit that only comes on with the ignition.

 

Everything works except it doesn't do the parking mode recording if someone bumps the car as there's no power. Works perfectly well otherwise and there was a lot of space for the piggy back connector in the fuse box.

 

 I just wish they would have put the USB C socket in the rear view mirror like in my old Octavia VRs.

[Houndog6105]

1 hour ago, MickyD44 said:

I have wired my Nextbase 522 into the rear wiper fuse 66. It's a circuit that only comes on with the ignition.

 

Everything works except it doesn't do the parking mode recording if someone bumps the car as there's no power. Works perfectly well otherwise and there was a lot of space for the piggy back connector in the fuse box.

 

 I just wish they would have put the USB C socket in the rear view mirror like in my old Octavia VRs.

Hi

So you used this fuse slot yes for power when ignition on? 

 

I may use this then for my dashcam as it's an empty socket. I just need to pick one for my power always on now for parking mode

 

I'd rather use an empty slot if possible you see 

 

 

[MickyD44]

Yes the one just above the relay I guess it is with 646 on it.

 

Strange it's empty though I thought all Enyaqs had rear wipers.

[Houndog6105]

4 minutes ago, MickyD44 said:

Yes the one just above the relay I guess it is with 646 on it.

 

Strange it's empty though I thought all Enyaqs had rear wipers.

I have the enyaq coupe and it's got no rear wiper. I'll use that slot for my power on ignition. Prob piggyback from fuse slot 21 (rear view camera) for the power always on

 

Just waiting for the hard wire kit in the post

 

Which slot are you using for the parking mode anyway? 

[Houndog6105]

On 28/03/2024 at 22:34, olivermooro said:

Hi Steve. 
Think you’re well on the way now, great stuff! 
 

I didn’t bother with trying empty fuse bays as I was reusing a hardwire kit from my previous lease car, so had the piggyback connectors already in place. 
 

Hope you find some empty slots that have power, otherwise it’s plan B and ordering piggyback connectors. 
 

Yes - turning the system off is a pain compared to the good old fashioned turning a key in the ignition. As you suggest, open the passenger door on a non rainy day, move the keys away and leave it for a while until it powers down. 
 

Just thought I'd update

 

No need to piggyback off any fuses as the car had some empty fuse slots available. After using the multimeter i was able to determine 

 

Fuse 23 (power always on yellow wire) 

Fuse 64 (red wire) 

 

Dashcam now up and running 24hr parking also working

 

Hopefully this may help someone else 🙂

 

Edited 2 April by Houndog6105

[EnterName]

On 30/03/2024 at 07:16, MickyD44 said:

I have wired my Nextbase 522 into the rear wiper fuse 66. It's a circuit that only comes on with the ignition.

 

Everything works except it doesn't do the parking mode recording if someone bumps the car as there's no power. Works perfectly well otherwise and there was a lot of space for the piggy back connector in the fuse box.

 

 I just wish they would have put the USB C socket in the rear view mirror like in my old Octavia VRs.

Depending on the system, some have a constant 12v AND a switched 12v input, so the dashcam has power all the time, and knows when to switch from driving mode to parking mode by the loss of 12v from the switched 12v supply.

The rear wiper fuse is a great fuse to piggyback the switched 12v supply off.

[MickyD44]

On 30/03/2024 at 14:01, Houndog6105 said:

I have the enyaq coupe and it's got no rear wiper. I'll use that slot for my power on ignition. Prob piggyback from fuse slot 21 (rear view camera) for the power always on

 

Just waiting for the hard wire kit in the post

 

Which slot are you using for the parking mode anyway? 

I don't have parking mode enabled. It's piggybacked to the switched rear wiper fuse, so parking mode won't activate.

 

I've always been cautious of running the 12v battery down in all the cars the camera has been fitted to (Superb and an Octavia until now).

 

Also with all the grumblings about the Enyaq 12v battery issues, I just didn't want any drain on the 12v side while it's parked. Just in case. 😀

[Houndog6105]

2 hours ago, MickyD44 said:

I don't have parking mode enabled. It's piggybacked to the switched rear wiper fuse, so parking mode won't activate.

 

I've always been cautious of running the 12v battery down in all the cars the camera has been fitted to (Superb and an Octavia until now).

 

Also with all the grumblings about the Enyaq 12v battery issues, I just didn't want any drain on the 12v side while it's parked. Just in case. 😀

The company i purchased the dash cam off advised me to use fuse 13 for parking mode wire (power always on) 

 

Fuse 13 is central locking, windscreen wipers, headlight washers, headlight tilt function 

[EnterName]

On 10/04/2024 at 08:48, MickyD44 said:

I've always been cautious of running the 12v battery down in all the cars the camera has been fitted to (Superb and an Octavia until now).

Yeah, it does draw down power from the battery and tire it out a bit.

You can (on my system at least) set a voltage to inhibit the dashcam operation if the battery level drops below that voltage, though.

[MickyD44]

On 11/04/2024 at 10:16, EnterName said:

Yeah, it does draw down power from the battery and tire it out a bit.

You can (on my system at least) set a voltage to inhibit the dashcam operation if the battery level drops below that voltage, though.

Ohh thats interesting. I have just used the standard Nextbase wiring kit.

 

Might have to look into that later. Thanks.