I have recently switched the headlights on my 2007 Fabia, i works awsomely. But and it is a big but, when i go to use my high beams the shutter opens and the light goes off i think this is due to the low beam turning of when i highbeam. Is this normal. And is there a fix. Pls help

its "normal" on the standard headlamps (as per most cars)...but with the projector lamps, as the main beam is switched on, the shutter opens fully and exposes the whole bulb producing extra light, it does not go off.

 

You need to wire them as per a vehicle which came with projector lamps. It's not a simple plug and play swap unfortunately.

What needs to be changed for it to work? If you know

 

7 minutes ago, UrbanPanzer said:

its "normal" on the standard headlamps (as per most cars)...but with the projector lamps, as the main beam is switched on, the shutter opens fully and exposes the whole bulb producing extra light, it does not go off.

 

You need to wire them as per a vehicle which came with projector lamps. It's not a simple plug and play swap unfortunately.

The thing is that the loom and connection has the exact same wires in the same place. My speculation is. That I would need to change the blinker arm. Do you reckon that that would fix the issue

 

 

the first is the one i had on and the projector is what i have now

 

26 minutes ago, agbaehring said:

The thing is that the loom and connection has the exact same wires in the same place. My speculation is. That I would need to change the blinker arm. Do you reckon that that would fix the issue

 

 

 

Well possibly, if you are selecting main beam now and you can hear the shutter open, that part is working correctly, the only thing then which can potentially cut the power to the headlamp bulb is the colum switch.

 

Attached is the 2 wiring diagrams, you can see the difference between them. Now this may not fix it completly as there is more wiring on those with twin filament lamps as there is extra fuses etc,

 

 

 

I would be checking the voltage / feed is "cut" at the headlight plug when you select hi beam on the colum switch

Edited 21 January, 20242 yr by UrbanPanzer

Yes I do hear the shutter and when I can see both low and high beam In my instrument cluster it seams to be working but when the low beam turns of so does the light yet the shutter don't

 

3 minutes ago, UrbanPanzer said:

 

Well possibly, if you are selecting main beam now and you can hear the shutter open, that part is working correctly, the only thing then which can potentially cut the power to the headlamp bulb is the colum switch.

 

Attached is the 2 wiring diagrams, you can see the difference between them. Now this may not fix it completly as there is more wiring on those with twin filament lamps as there is extra fuses etc,

 

 

What exactly is a collum switch

 

also I was wandering are the headlights coded at all, because if so that could be why?

 

Edited 21 January, 20242 yr by agbaehring

Its not coding, its to do with the way one headlight has a single bulb and the other doesn't.

 

Looking back through the thread, I see you have an early model.

This model used a relay for the dim / dip setting on the bi-halogen lights......... attached are more relevant wiring diagrams. You would have to "replicate" this to enable yours to work correctly.

 

 

 

 

Also here is the light switch for "YOUR" car .............you can see it states NOT for bi-halogen, it's internal connections / switches are different.

So you would also need a new headlight switch, OR add / delete the current connections in the one you have now.

 

Edited 21 January, 20242 yr by UrbanPanzer

Is this hard i cant tell by the diagram i cant really wrap my head around it

 

And the other had a single h4 bulb

But i get where you are coming from

do you know what trim level they came in the projectors

 

On 02/01/2021 at 23:54, UrbanPanzer said:

No Need to pay for anything really, this is pretty straightforward to do.........these would be simple to wire up for main beam use only.

 

Below is a simple wiring diagram and the yellow "high beam wire" would be the wire which feeds the shutters on the headlamps for main beam.

 

I have also attached wiring for the car Left hand Headlamp..........you would need to confirm by checking your vehicle,

 

but PIN 8 of the headlamp 10 Pin connector should be a white wire which is + 12v live with main beam selected ON, if that is the case, then tap into this and it need

to be connected to PIN 86 of the relay as in diagram below.

 

 

 

couldnt i do something like this

2 hours ago, UrbanPanzer said:

Its not coding, its to do with the way one headlight has a single bulb and the other doesn't.

 

Looking back through the thread, I see you have an early model.

This model used a relay for the dim / dip setting on the bi-halogen lights......... attached are more relevant wiring diagrams. You would have to "replicate" this to enable yours to work correctly.

 

 

 

 

Also here is the light switch for "YOUR" car .............you can see it states NOT for bi-halogen, it's internal connections / switches are different.

So you would also need a new headlight switch, OR add / delete the current connections in the one you have now.

 

do you recon using a diode from high beam to low beam would solve the issue

 

A diode just allows flow in one direction only, not sure how it would help.

 

The issue is when the switch (stalk) is flicked forward for main beam, the internal switch in there going "through" the headlight selection switch "disconnects" the feed to the headlight dipped feed because it is wired for a twin filament bulb.

 

The feed which "used" to operate the main beam filament is now instead operating the headlamp shutter in the projector lamp, and with a car wired for projectors, the feed to the headlamp is not cut, it's the shutter opening which gives more light.

The thing I was wandering was if I took the signal from the shutter with a diode and smacked it into the bulb wouldn't that slow the bulb to light without the signal coming from the thingy. Call it a temporary solution.

 

Right now the shutter gets power when the bulb doesnt. So by splitting that power and making sure that low beams don't activate that shutter. Wouldn't that in theory work

12 minutes ago, agbaehring said:

Right now the shutter gets power when the bulb doesnt. So by splitting that power and making sure that low beams don't activate that shutter. Wouldn't that in theory work

 

in theory yes, but your not tyring to stop the low beam working, there is no Low  / High beam, it's 1 bulb on when headlights are on and the shutter hides half of it until Hi beam is selected then it allows ALL the light from the bulb through. Splitting the feed to the shutter is not ideal, it's keeping the feed to the bulb (dipped beam on) which is the important bit irrespective of when the shutter is activated.

 

The other "issue" is there won't be no feed back to the dash to show the "blue" main beam light, I see your in Denmark, in the UK that main beam indicator not working would (or should) fail the annual MOT test.

Edited 21 January, 20242 yr by UrbanPanzer

10 minutes ago, UrbanPanzer said:

 

in theory yes, but your not tyring to stop the low beam working, there is no Low  / High beam, it's 1 bulb on when headlights are on and the shutter hides half of it until Hi beam is selected then it allows ALL the light from the bulb through. Splitting the feed to the shutter is not ideal, it's keeping the feed to the bulb (dipped beam on) which is the important bit irrespective of when the shutter is activated.

 

The other "issue" is there won't be no feed back to the dash to show the "blue" main beam light, I see your in Denmark, in the UK that main beam indicator not working would (or should) fail the annual MOT test.

The former low beam activates the bulb the former highbeam activates the shutter so I need for the power to be delivered both to the former high and low beam but only when the former high beam signal is on.

Therefor i thought that a diode could contact the two i a one directional connection. Yes?

 

There has never actually been a main beam indication in the dash when highbeaming

 

51 minutes ago, agbaehring said:

There has never actually been a main beam indication in the dash when highbeaming

 

 

really ? or it's never worked...........Not a requirement in Denmark ? would have thought European approval was relevant.

2 hours ago, agbaehring said:

if I took the signal from the shutter with a diode and smacked it into the bulb wouldn't that slow the bulb to light

I think this is total nonsense; a diode blocks current from flowing in one direction, but most assuredly does not "slow" current flowing in the other direction.

14 hours ago, UrbanPanzer said:

 

really ? or it's never worked...........Not a requirement in Denmark ? would have thought European approval was relevant.

Or else my selector has never worked

 

13 hours ago, Paws4Thot said:

I think this is total nonsense; a diode blocks current from flowing in one direction, but most assuredly does not "slow" current flowing in the other direction.

Alow*